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Thread: Hydro-Vac Replacement

  1. #1
    Commander Member Dylan's Avatar
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    Hydro-Vac Replacement

    Well unfortunately my Speedy has been parked since the first of May due to the Hydro-Vac failing. And am now financially able to spend the money and get it ordered. Definitely going to be ordering the (2) short hoses that attach to the Hydro-Vac as well. What will the new Hydro-Vac come with from the Studebaker International website?

    I helped a friend out move into his home this weekend, and got a few automotive things from his garage including a brand new Flex-a-Lite 17" fan and wandering if it will work on my 259ci? Hopefully, it seems lighter than the stock fan, and seems like it would keep the engine cooler.

    Has anyone ever run this setup on there Studebaker before? Just curious!





    Dylan
    I own a 1955 Studebaker President "Speedster", sat garaged for 20 years
    pulled it out in January of 2013, she is now a weekend driver around town.
    "Making many miles, and many smiles a long the way".


  2. #2
    President Member irish's Avatar
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    Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the brakes worked simply as non-power brakes if the Hydro-vac failed.

    Joe


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    And a few others

  3. #3
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    On some models, there ARE differences in the pedal ratio of a power vs non power brake car. Also depending on what has failed in the hy dro vac, it could result in no brakes.

    Jim
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  4. #4
    President Member 5brown1's Avatar
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    Be sure to order the four copper crush washers from SI also. You will need two of each of the two sizes. You will have to call them and tell them what you want but may not need the part numbers. Other than that you can use the fittings from the old hydrovac.

  5. #5
    President Member studebaker-R2-4-me's Avatar
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    If you buy the NEW hydrovac you will also need some plumbing fittings for the vacuum check valve. On the NEW hydrovac's the check valve sits too close to the fender skirt, so you have to make it as tight to the hydrovac as possible. You will also need 2 metric nuts to install the hydrovac onto the bracket.

    Allen

    1964 GT Hawk
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  6. #6
    Commander Member Dylan's Avatar
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    Ok Thanks guys I will give them a call this morning, and get all the parts ordered. I measured the fan shroud and the flex-a-lite fan will replace the stock fan. I can't wait to see how it turns out, and if their is a huge difference with the cooling. Thanks again everyone!









    Dylan
    I own a 1955 Studebaker President "Speedster", sat garaged for 20 years
    pulled it out in January of 2013, she is now a weekend driver around town.
    "Making many miles, and many smiles a long the way".


  7. #7
    President Member 5brown1's Avatar
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    I just installed the new hydrovac from SI on my speedster and it fit just fine without any additional fittings or different nuts. It appeared identical to the original unit or at least to the one on my car.
    Don't forget to send the old one back to SI to receive your $100 core charge back.

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    Anyone want to make a guess where these new Hydrovac units are made?

  9. #9
    President Member SScopelli's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dylan View Post
    <snip>

    I helped a friend out move into his home this weekend, and got a few automotive things from his garage including a brand new Flex-a-Lite 17" fan and wandering if it will work on my 259ci? Hopefully, it seems lighter than the stock fan, and seems like it would keep the engine cooler.
    Studebaker's have a unique bolt pattern and a big hole in the middle.. Make sure that it will bolt up before attempting..

    Here is an odd 7 blade that is Studebaker friendly!
    2013-05-31 17.45.01.jpg

  10. #10
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    Ed has a couple three people making them up in SB in a rented double wide very close to the big store. cheers jimmijim
    Anything worth doing deserves your best shot. Do it right the first time. When you're done you will know it. { I'm just the guy who thinks he knows everything, my buddy is the guy who knows everything.} cheers jimmijim*****SDC***** member

  11. #11
    Commander Member Dylan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5brown1 View Post
    Don't forget to send the old one back to SI to receive your $100 core charge back.
    If I bought the brand new one I didn't have to send it first, but If I bought a rebuilt I would. Can I send it in and get $100 for the core no matter what I choose?


    I called Studebaker International this morning with the new Hydro-Vac, two hoses, a new check valve my total approximately came to $466 dollars. After my heart skipped a beat I was polite and said Thank you for your time, I will not be able to order this at this time. lol I was very hopeful this morning but it's just not in the budget right now with me being a college student.

    She asked me if I wanted a re-built one or a brand new one, I chose the brand new one not knowing the difference. What is the difference between the two? Can someone explain.

    I want to be able to drive it and not worry about having failure in the brakes, I'm not being cheap when it comes to the braking system, I want to order a new check valve just to be safe, and all the other parts that play a major role in the brakes.





    Dylan
    I own a 1955 Studebaker President "Speedster", sat garaged for 20 years
    pulled it out in January of 2013, she is now a weekend driver around town.
    "Making many miles, and many smiles a long the way".


  12. #12
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    Might try these guys. They have been around for a long time and have pretty good reputation. There are many more out there but I don't know much about them. I had mine rebuilt about 20 years ago and still going strong.

    http://boosterdeweyexchange.com
    Dan White
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  13. #13
    President Member studebaker-R2-4-me's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dylan View Post
    If I bought the brand new one I didn't have to send it first, but If I bought a rebuilt I would. Can I send it in and get $100 for the core no matter what I choose?

    She asked me if I wanted a re-built one or a brand new one, I chose the brand new one not knowing the difference. What is the difference between the two? Can someone explain.


    Dylan
    Dylan,

    NEW mean NEW and rebuilt means old and rebuilt. The NEW one's require no core or core charge. They have a check valve already installed on the unit on NOT inline with the vacuum hose as originally done. NEW requires you to use 2 metric nuts to bolt it to the bracket. Ed may give you a credit for the old core if you bought a new one. Ask him

    Allen

    1964 GT Hawk
    PSMCDR 2014
    Best time: 14.473 sec. 96.57 MPH quarter mile
    PSMCDR 2013
    Best time: 14.654 sec. 94.53 MPH quarter mile


    Oakville, Ontario .
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  14. #14
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    Booster Dewey does a great job on Master Vacs but does not work on Hydro Vacs. I just had him do a Master Vac on my '64 wagon and was pleased with his work. He also answers questions over the phone. I believe Ed Strain does them. I've seen his ads in Hemmings.
    Rob in PA.

  15. #15
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    Now that I think about it I am pretty sure Ed Strain did mine way back when.
    Dan White
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    57 Broadmoor (Marvin)

  16. #16
    Speedster Member 3rdGenStude's Avatar
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    Booster Dewey does a great job on Master Vacs but does not work on Hydro Vacs.
    Right. I phoned him about 2 months ago and got the same message, along with some recommendations for 3 other places.

    I ended up going with Rebuilders Enterprises in Bridgeview, IL. It took about two weeks for the rebuild. Haven't had a chance to re-assemble the system yet. They returned everything, including a small bag with the banjo bolts and other miscellaneous small parts and the old hoses, and included the refinishing of the two brackets at no extra charge. They use a neoprene diaphragm, doing away with the need for the annual Neet's Foot oiling. The total with return shipping was about $240. Others here have given good reports on their work.

    Paul
    I finally have a Stude I can drive! (sort of)
    1962 GT Hawk, 4 speed, a/c

  17. #17
    Speedster Member 3rdGenStude's Avatar
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    including a small bag with the banjo bolts
    I've tried to figure some things out from the Shop Manuel and Chassis catalog illustrations, but I must have missed it. And I forgot to take pictures of the Hydrovac before I sent it off. But it wasn't connected anyway.

    Does anyone have a good clear picture showing where the hoses hook onto the booster? And just WHERE do those banjo bolts go? Oh, and the copper crush washers I keep reading about, (I ordered some from SI along with the new hoses) where do those go?

    Thanks

    Paul
    I finally have a Stude I can drive! (sort of)
    1962 GT Hawk, 4 speed, a/c

  18. #18
    President Member 63 R2 Hawk's Avatar
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    Don't know if this shows what you want....
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Quote Originally Posted by 63 R2 Hawk View Post
    Don't know if this shows what you want....
    Nope, A disc brake booster like this may put Him through the windshield!!

  20. #20
    President Member 5brown1's Avatar
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    The crush washers are used to seal the banjo bolts and related fittings. Those fittings are where the brake hoses attach to the hydrovac.
    The picture doesn't show all of the hydrovac but does show the banjo fittings and flexible lines which were on my speedster.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5brown1 View Post
    The crush washers are used to seal the banjo bolts and related fittings. Those fittings are where the brake hoses attach to the hydrovac.
    The picture doesn't show all of the hydrovac but does show the banjo fittings and flexible lines which were on my speedster.
    I see 'SUN VALLEY YELLOW'!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  22. #22
    Speedster Member 3rdGenStude's Avatar
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    First, sorry for hijacking the thread for my own questions, but it fit the topic well.

    Thanks for all the replies to my questions. 5brown1 your picture is perfect. I can tell the line routing from the flex hoses pretty well based on the directions they go. Once I opened up the parts bag and got a good close look at the banjo bolts and brass fittings Rebuilders Ent. sent back, along with your picture and description, it all made good sense. It turns out they even sent me 4 new copper crush washers.

    Paul
    I finally have a Stude I can drive! (sort of)
    1962 GT Hawk, 4 speed, a/c

  23. #23
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    I'd be replacing those hoses! They do not look very good! I would also maybe make them a few inches longer, so that the "bend" in them would be less. (which I can do)

    Jim
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  24. #24
    President Member 5brown1's Avatar
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    "I'd be replacing those hoses! They do not look very good!"

    Those hoses are long gone as is that hydrovac and replaced with new. The pictures were taken while taking the car apart.

    SN-60 you do see Sun Valley Yellow
    The colors have changed a bit - Subaru Yellow Green Metallic and Subaru Electric Yellow. I'm just waiting (and waiting) for my bodyman to do the final buffing and then I'll post a picture or two.
    Last edited by 5brown1; 06-11-2013 at 08:25 PM.

  25. #25
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    To: 5brown1,----Subaru colors eh? That's interesting. What year Subaru? I'd like to eyeball the color chips. It's always good to learn about 'close matches' of factory Stude colors!

  26. #26
    President Member 5brown1's Avatar
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    The Yellow Green Metallic is a 1999 color. Code is 812. The Electric Yellow is a 1991 color. code 040.
    I'm including pictures taken a while back but they just don't do it justice. The green just doesn't look the same in pictures. Most people comment that they like the green color.
    The tape pieces are to let my bodyman know where he need to do some touchup.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by 5brown1; 06-12-2013 at 07:04 PM.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5brown1 View Post
    The Yellow Green Metallic is a 1999 color. Code is 812. The Electric Yellow is a 1991 color. code 040.
    I'm including pictures taken a while back but they just don't do it justice. The green just doesn't look the same in pictures. Most people comment that they like the green color.
    The tape pieces are to let my bodyman know where he need to do some touchup.
    WOW!...I never would have guessed Subaru offered colors so close to the original Studebaker Hialeah Green/Sun Valley Yellow....Good information.....And Your Speedster looks great!

  28. #28
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    Subaru also has their version of Hill Holder on their manual shift cars! They also have a factory in Indiana!
    Dan White
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  29. #29
    President Member bezhawk's Avatar
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    I have rebuilt hydo-vacs. The problem is not in the rebuilding, they are very easy to rebuild. It is in the corrosion rendering them un rebuildable. Not only in the output slave cylinder, but valve and seal areas. New is the way to go.
    Bez Auto Alchemy
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  30. #30
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    Rebuilders Enterprises. Dat's who did mine. Soetimes rebuilt and remanufactured are used mistakenly for one another. Rebuilt is a unit that is totally taken apart and what components do not pass inspection at the time are replaced and thusly reassembled into a functioning unit". "Remanufactured is so that every moving part subject to wear/deterioration are reconditioned/replaced and all parts assembled into a new/sometimes better unit because of upgrade. No less than OEM specs. at least in our perfect world. cheers jimmijim






    '



    ' into a functioning unit. "
    Quote Originally Posted by 3rdGenStude View Post
    First, sorry for hijacking the thread for my own questions, but it fit the topic well.

    Thanks for all the replies to my questions. 5brown1 your picture is perfect. I can tell the line routing from the flex hoses pretty well based on the directions they go. Once I opened up the parts bag and got a good close look at the banjo bolts and brass fittings Rebuilders Ent. sent back, along with your picture and description, it all made good sense. It turns out they even sent me 4 new copper crush washers.

    Paul
    Anything worth doing deserves your best shot. Do it right the first time. When you're done you will know it. { I'm just the guy who thinks he knows everything, my buddy is the guy who knows everything.} cheers jimmijim*****SDC***** member

  31. #31
    President Member bezhawk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimmijim8 View Post
    Rebuilders Enterprises. Dat's who did mine. Soetimes rebuilt and remanufactured are used mistakenly for one another. Rebuilt is a unit that is totally taken apart and what components do not pass inspection at the time are replaced and thusly reassembled into a functioning unit". "Remanufactured is so that every moving part subject to wear/deterioration are reconditioned/replaced and all parts assembled into a new/sometimes better unit because of upgrade. No less than OEM specs. at least in our perfect world. cheers jimmijim






    '



    ' into a functioning unit. "
    I am not a parts replacer. period.
    I was trying to point out that hydro-vacs are a wet booster. subject to the corrosion of contaminated dot 3 fluid. Hardly anyone flushes the system every year.
    Have you ever had a wheel cylinder apart and seen the aluminum pistons so corroded that you couldn't remove them with a hammer and punch? I have, same problem exists here.
    If metal is too far gone the part needs machining and sleeving that is more labor and parts costly than a replacement.
    You sent yours off to be rebuilt. Did you open it up and see the condition personally? Perhaps they replaced (oh my!)the front aluminum housing with a new one.
    I ain't cheeta! Cheers





    '
    Bez Auto Alchemy
    573-318-8948
    http://bezautoalchemy.com

  32. #32
    President Member PlainBrownR2's Avatar
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    I am not a parts replacer. period.
    I was trying to point out that hydro-vacs are a wet booster. subject to the corrosion of contaminated dot 3 fluid. Hardly anyone flushes the system every year.
    Have you ever had a wheel cylinder apart and seen the aluminum pistons so corroded that you couldn't remove them with a hammer and punch? I have, same problem exists here.
    If metal is too far gone the part needs machining and sleeving that is more labor and parts costly than a replacement.
    You sent yours off to be rebuilt. Did you open it up and see the condition personally? Perhaps they replaced (oh my!)the front aluminum housing with a new one.
    I ain't cheeta! Cheers


    Been there myself!!! My 55's master cylinder and passenger front wheel cylinder were in this state. Both parts were original to the car, and both were in bad shape from all those years of just sitting. In the course of rebuilding the whole braking system, I honed them out to remove the pits and stop the leaking, but in the end, they just ended up leaking even worse. There's a point of no return with this procedure. So the master cylinder was replaced with another from our stash, and the wheel cylinder was replaced with one from NAPA. Luckily, NAPA still has both parts for the car, but due to the age and corrosion, there came a point where there was no saving either without sending them out for resleeving, so I just replaced the master cylinder with a spare, and I bought a new wheel cylinder from our local FLAPS here instead, easy enough.
    1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
    1963 Studebaker Daytona Hardtop with no engine or transmission
    1950 Studebaker 2R5 w/170 six cylinder and 3spd OD
    1955 Studebaker Commander Hardtop w/289 and 3spd OD and Megasquirt port fuel injection(among other things)

  33. #33
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    My bad

    Heck Brad. I'm only 63 and been around Studes and other cars since tinkering from the age of 14. Got my start in bicycles in my pre teen yrs. Never seen a corroded brake cylinder that I didn't throw away. Guy at REBUILDERS ENTERPRISES assured me that if any machining of parts was necessary for a permformance as new result he would let me know. I trusted his word. Hope he didn't f!@# me.
    Quote Originally Posted by bezhawk View Post
    I am not a parts replacer. period.
    I was trying to point out that hydro-vacs are a wet booster. subject to the corrosion of contaminated dot 3 fluid. Hardly anyone flushes the system every year.
    Have you ever had a wheel cylinder apart and seen the aluminum pistons so corroded that you couldn't remove them with a hammer and punch? I have, same problem exists here.
    If metal is too far gone the part needs machining and sleeving that is more labor and parts costly than a replacement.
    You sent yours off to be rebuilt. Did you open it up and see the condition personally? Perhaps they replaced (oh my!)the front aluminum housing with a new one.
    I ain't cheeta! Cheers





    '
    Last edited by jimmijim8; 06-13-2013 at 09:56 PM.
    Anything worth doing deserves your best shot. Do it right the first time. When you're done you will know it. { I'm just the guy who thinks he knows everything, my buddy is the guy who knows everything.} cheers jimmijim*****SDC***** member

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