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  1. #1
    Speedster Member 57transtar guy's Avatar
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    It is apparent that I need to install a new camshaft, connecting rods and a few miscellaneous things and I have a few extra dollars so what should I look at? Pistons look good but they are stock so should I look into 1/2 dish? ( I've ruled out boring them unless someone recommends it) CAM is stock so should I look into R1 regrind specs? I have an adapter plate for my 4 barrel carb so should I look into modification of the intake? Any other thoughts, ideas or suggestions? Im obviously not the most tech savy guy but I'm learning

  2. #2
    Golden Hawk Member DEEPNHOCK's Avatar
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    I will leave the tech savvy to others....
    But it really isn't up to you about boring your engine.
    It is up to your engine.
    Taper in the cylinder wall (top to bottom), roundness of the cylinder wall, diameter of the cylinder wall, piston clearance/fit in the cylinder, and ridge at the top of the cylinder wall.
    Those things will tell you if boring your cylinders (and replacing your pistons and rings) will be necessary.
    If you choose not to do this when it is needed, then your rebuild will not have the result you are seeking.



    Quote Originally Posted by 57transtar guy View Post
    It is apparent that I need to install a new camshaft, connecting rods and a few miscellaneous things and I have a few extra dollars so what should I look at? Pistons look good but they are stock so should I look into 1/2 dish? ( I've ruled out boring them unless someone recommends it) CAM is stock so should I look into R1 regrind specs? I have an adapter plate for my 4 barrel carb so should I look into modification of the intake? Any other thoughts, ideas or suggestions? Im obviously not the most tech savy guy but I'm learning
    .

  3. #3
    President Member JoeHall's Avatar
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    Depends on what your goals are. If planning to drive it farther than another 50,000 miles, I'd give it the full treatment, probably to include new pistons. If unsure, I'd just overhaul it with rings, bearings, crankshaft R&R, and maybe a hot tank. There are "rebuild" specs, to return it to as new condition, and there are "field" specs, to get er back on the road, serviceable and dependable.

    As for HP components, depends on priorities. If your need for speed is greater than dependability and versatility, then go with higher comp pistons, hotter cam, etc.

    As for the 4B carb, it will sit on the 4b manifold just fine with an adapter; no need to modify the manifold, unless you are looking for razor edge, higher performance.

  4. #4
    Speedster Member 57transtar guy's Avatar
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    Thanks

    I am shooting for reliability more than anything but have been told (not by Studebaker guys but other mechanics) to at least do something with the CAM.

    I have the stock 2 barrel manifold not the 4 so thats where that question comes from... leave well enough alone?

    The machine shop is going through everything tomorrow and the next day and I will find out what they recommend but Im looking for all of your thoughts so I dont get sucked into their recommendations.

  5. #5
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    Why not leave it alone? Adding performance doesn't necessarily increase reliability. The engine is all ready designed to be reliable and run economically while giving good performance. You start adding performance features, the uhn, uhn, uhn stuff and you defeat economy and putting your foot in the accelerator (given the uhn, uhn, uhn stuff) will have an effect on the reliability factor at some point.

    If the engine requires boring, do the absolute minimum possible to clean the cylinders up. Stock type pistons with a good ring set (chrome?), cam, mains, valve job (hardened seats), Head work (maybe some chamber work and polish) and see what it does.

    I can do 100 miles an hour with my 59 Deluxe 289 (std), but that doesn't mean I can stop it right away. Driving a reasonable speed, I get about 23 miles to the gallon, and it stops reasonably well. I think that if I were to do anything, it would be to add disc brakes to improve stopping.

    The R2 Avanti on the other hand is pure get in your pocket fun. While it is reliable, you pay a price to keep it that way!
    Bo Markham

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    Silver Hawk Member jclary's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 57transtar guy View Post
    Thanks

    I am shooting for reliability more than anything but have been told (not by Studebaker guys but other mechanics) to at least do something with the CAM.
    This is where you can get into some serious trouble with our Studebaker engines. These same "mechanics" are likely to be the same ones who will turn the crap out of a SBC crankshaft, soup-up the top end...top it off with a high lift cam...and then scratch their heads and be stunned when the crankshaft grenades the entire assembly at the first high speed run!

    Studebaker did have some cam issues when their first V8 hit the market in 1951. As far as I know, they addressed the problem and never looked back. Unfortunately, that little blunder seems to be the thing that "non-Studebaker" mechanics pass down from generation to generation.
    John Clary
    Greer, SC


    SDC member since 1975

  7. #7
    Speedster Member
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    I think Bo makes a good argument, but listen to your machinist, and if he recommends boring it, and if you trust his judgement, then definitely bore it, get new pistons,rings etc. The cranks are forged, so they are tough, however they should be checked for wear and roundness. If necessary, have it turned down and get the proper bearings. As Bo said, have all the machining done to the minimum needed. You can address the intake by having the 2 barrel machined into a 4 barrel. I believe Jeff Rice (DEEPINHOCK) does this, if you could send your intake to him. An R1/R2 cam would help the go part, but other work should be done along with the cam, as head work,valve job and using the right pistons to match the cam. There is a saying that all it takes to go faster is more money. As Bo said, he can go 100 MPH, but he has to get to a stop also. Good luck in you endeavors, and don't be afraid to ask for help, Bill van Alstyne

  8. #8
    Speedster Member 57transtar guy's Avatar
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    By doing the CAM and other suggested items... what does that do to HP and/ MPG? Not that I'm committed to doing this, just asking

    I'm on my way to the machine shop to see what they say.

  9. #9
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    The bad thing about HP is horses eat, and the more horses you have the bigger your feed bill. If you use the stock or near stock cam, advance it 4 degrees. They come retarded 3 degrees from the factory. You will loose a little on the top end but it will feel like a bigger motor out of the hole.

  10. #10
    Speedster Member Don Jeffers's Avatar
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    Cam Retard

    Quote Originally Posted by Alan View Post
    If you use the stock or near stock cam, advance it 4 degrees. They come retarded 3 degrees from the factory. You will loose a little on the top end but it will feel like a bigger motor out of the hole.
    Hello Alan,

    Lazy bones have to ask; did you learn about the 3 degree cam retard from the Stude manuals?

    Or is that general Stude lore? Is it true across the board, from 51 V8s to 64s? R1, R2, R3?

    Thanks,

  11. #11
    Speedster Member 57transtar guy's Avatar
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    Just found out that all the machinist recommends is a new camshaft and couple connecting rods. Turns out the motor is already bored .30 over and the old owner spent a small fortune on the intake... I will get a picture since the machinist seems impressed. He does recommend minor improvements to the CAM to match the bore and intake but he did say that the pistons and everything else looks good... lucky me

    I get the exact parts list tomorrow but he just called to say that it's gonna be less then expected! I'm still learning so if anyone has questions I should ask or get clarification on please let me know.

    Thanks all

  12. #12
    Silver Hawk Member jclary's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 57transtar guy View Post
    Just found out that all the machinist recommends is a new camshaft and couple connecting rods. Turns out the motor is already bored .30 over and the old owner spent a small fortune on the intake... I will get a picture since the machinist seems impressed. He does recommend minor improvements to the CAM to match the bore and intake but he did say that the pistons and everything else looks good... lucky me

    I get the exact parts list tomorrow but he just called to say that it's gonna be less then expected! I'm still learning so if anyone has questions I should ask or get clarification on please let me know.

    Thanks all
    Sounds to me like you have found a straight-up machinist...being honest and not trying to Up-sell you to inflate his bill. If his work is as good...you're in good hands. Good luck with the project.
    John Clary
    Greer, SC


    SDC member since 1975

  13. #13
    President Member
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    Don; I found this out from Ed Iskenderian, after I got a cam from him and degreed it in. Thought he sold me a bum cam.

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