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Thread: Edelbrock 1406 carb problems

  1. #1
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    Edelbrock 1406 carb problems

    I have the 1406 carb (600cfm,electric choke) on my Studebaker streetrod. It never idled correctly and drained in 3 or 4 days. I corrected a few problems yesterday and thought I would share what I found and what I did. First, I installed a Mr. Gasket pressure regulator I bought at Advance Auto and set it on 5.5 Lbss. I read where a lot of stock pumps have 10 to 13 lbs. pressure and I also have a electric pump in line to prime my carb after setting ,so this was easier than checking both pumps. Edelbrock wants 5.5 to 6 lbs at seats and I figure I could have been flooding motor. Second ,and most important, I found a built in vacumn leak. Its at front passenger side of carb in the electric choke and takes a 10-32 screw to plug it. After doing these 2 items, my air adjustment screws actually worked at they should and I was able to idle truck at 600 rpms and still put it in gear without killing motor, I think the small vacumn leak was my main problem . I do have another 1406 that has a plug in the same hole, but a new carb at advance auto still had the leak and needed the screw if bought. If you have one of these carbs , please check for the leak.
    Randy Wilkin
    1946 M5 Streetrod
    Hillsboro,Ohio 45133

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    I've had problems with a couple of the late model AFB's such as rough idle and stumbling. The tip on the vacuum leak is a good one, , I'll have to look for the missing screws. Bud

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    Bud, if I didn't explain good enough, e-mail me and I will take a picture of where screw is . it only takes 1 screw and its at bottom of choke housing at front edge. I have another 1406 with a lead plug in the hole, but a new 1406 at advance was like mine, needed the 10-32 screw added.

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    Love to see the pictures on this when you can get them.

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    Is the screw that you installed directly below the choke housing at the 5 o-clock position?
    Lost in the 50\'s

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    If you installed one of the Lionel Stone aluminum intake reproductions,make sure to use a good composite gasket.
    The stock metal gaskets will not seal.
    The holes are off and you need to make it fit right by pushing it all the way over and enlarging or slotting the holes.
    Test for vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner all the way around the intake gasket using the spray can tube with the engine idling.
    If the RPM picks up at a spot , you have a vacuum leak there. some people use starter fluid but if you are a moron , do not try these tests.
    Don't do it inside!!
    Robert Kapteyn

  7. #7
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    Picture of screw

    The threaded hole is to right of plastic cap on the round tube that the plunger in choke works . Am trying to attach picture of mine with 10-32 screw installed.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Randy Wilkin
    1946 M5 Streetrod
    Hillsboro,Ohio 45133

  8. #8
    President Member JoeHall's Avatar
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    That's interesting. I have a new 1406 in the garage that would not idle down either. It also has the same hole. It came on the 63GT I bought. I did not bother to try to figure out the problem. Since I hate those carbs on a Stude I simply swapped it out with my favorite, a "baby Holley".

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    My motor is a 355 sbc with a 327/350 horse cam,so it idleing at 600 rpm and staying running when dropped in gear is abig change from what it did in past. before it was 1000rpms and still studdered when put in gear and the air screws in front of carb seemed to make no difference. plugging that hole and installing a regulator completely changed the idle of the carb.

  10. #10
    President Member JoeHall's Avatar
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    Yep, the idle screws did not make any difference on mine either. Looks like you've stumbled onto something. Thanks !

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    Would be interesting to call Edelbrock and inquire, just to satisfy curiosity if nothing else.
    Pat Dilling
    Olivehurst, CA
    Custom '53 Starlight aka STU COOL
    '54 Conestoga Current Project aka STU KOOL


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  12. #12
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    Update, edelbrock claims the vacumn leak is their to cool the choke spring, claims plugging hole will burn up choke.
    Randy Wilkin
    1946 M5 Streetrod
    Hillsboro,Ohio 45133

  13. #13
    President Member JoeHall's Avatar
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    I looked at the older AFB I have had on the 56J for decades, and that hole has a male nipple sticking out of it, which I attached the 56J's hot air tube to. That AFB was set up to use either the electric provision, or the hot air tube for the choke.

    I have ran those AFBs on some Stude 289s over the years, but used the electric choke, and installed a rubber cap on the nipple. I am guessing the Edlebrock is electric choke only, but they left that hole there and forgot why. The Edlebrock could probably be set up to use a hot air tube by drilling that hole a little larger and installing a metal nipple.

    For the Edlebrock rep to say the hole is there to provide air to cool the choke wire is kinda hard to understand since the coil has to stay hot in order for the choke to stay open.

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    I am going to unhook my electric to choke, and back choke off ,just to see how truck runs. It idles so much better, and air screws adjust as they should,which they didn't before, so I want to see if mileage changes . I to don't understand why they say they need that leak for choke.
    Randy Wilkin
    1946 M5 Streetrod
    Hillsboro,Ohio 45133

  15. #15
    President Member 5brown1's Avatar
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    Did you check to see if the electric choke is actually working. I discovered that I had a blown fuse on the circuit which operated the choke.

  16. #16
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    Actually, when I checked, I had choke backed off so it wasn't working. I did unhook my hot feed and the truck still starts cold and idles fine. That tells me Edelbrock was wrong when they told me the reason truck runs better with vacumn plugged is its running lean. If it was that lean ,it wouldn't run at idle in my opinion starting up at 30 degrees and no choke. I drove truck in town today and went to car wash to wash off motor. it had mice droppings and thought the small drive would be good for truck, also tooped off tank at 2.97 a gallon. Then took both drivers we had to Kroger with $1.00 off and filled them and 2 gas cans at $2.09 a gollon,so its been a good day so far!

  17. #17
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    I have two cars with the 1406 Edelbrock carb, one on a conventional 289 and the other on my R-2 Avanti. I consider both a vast improvement over the old and worn Carter AFBs I had been using. Both have the electric choke, and both have the unplugged hole. I have never had a problem of rough idle or stumbling/hesitation with either one. Nevertheless, when I take them out of storage next spring, I will try plugging the holes to see if it makes a difference.
    Stan Gundry, Author and Publisher of WHAT THE SHOP MANUAL WON'T TELL YOU: STUDEBAKER AVANTI RESTORATION AND MAINTENANCE

  18. #18
    President Member JoeHall's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stan.Gundry View Post
    I have two cars with the 1406 Edelbrock carb, one on a conventional 289 and the other on my R-2 Avanti. I consider both a vast improvement over the old and worn Carter AFBs I had been using. Both have the electric choke, and both have the unplugged hole. I have never had a problem of rough idle or stumbling/hesitation with either one. Nevertheless, when I take them out of storage next spring, I will try plugging the holes to see if it makes a difference.
    Carb preferences are like oil preferences, and some of us are downright passionate about ours.

    I too, consider the AFB cloned Edlebrock to be a major improvement over the OEM, WW series two barrel, WCFB, especially for performance and all around function. Main drawback is MPG, which is no better than the aforementioned; if anything it is worse on anything but the Interstate road, due to the large capacity accelerator pumps. As for superiority over an [U]serviceable[U] AFB, the Edlebrock is a clone, and for me, has done nothing better or worse than an AFB. Of course, if the AFB is worn out, that is not a fair comparison. I like that one can easily play with the jets & power valves on both of them, but then again, so can one with the WW and WCFB.

    IMHO, one of the best kept secrets is the now nearly extinct, model 4350, "baby Holley". It is a 450 CFM four barrel, "economizer" carb that was designed to be a cheap replacement for Quadrajunk carbs in the 1970s-1980s. For MPG and all around function, it is VERY hard to beat, i.e. two days ago, the wife's GT, with baby Holley, got 18.9 MPG on a 200 mile trip (mostly Interstate), and consistently gets 16-17 MPG on Kentucky's country roads. It has a 3.07 rear end, which helps too, but most Stude folks have trouble believing a Stude V8 can get that kinda MPG under any circumstances.

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    The hole in question is there for a reason! If you have to plug it you have another problem. The early ones had a nipple to put a rubber hose on and it went up to the air horn area and got filtered air. On the newer ones they did away with the nipple and put a screen inside the hole to get air without getting debris. If you didn't have a small amount of metered air across the electric choke it can overheat. The electric choke gets plenty hot enough to open completely with this air bleed even at 0 deg. F. or colder. I am using three of these setups on some of my vehicles with no problems what so ever!
    1958 Transtar 3E6-122
    1960 Lark Gasser
    1960 Champ 4X4 5E6-112
    1960 Champ 5E6-112
    1961 Champ 6E7-122
    1962 GT Hawk
    1963 Lark R1 4 speed
    1964 Cruiser

  20. #20
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    Mine is going to stay plugged, I don't use the choke and disconnected the hot wire to choke, Edlebrock told me my engine is lean and thats why it runs better, if lean why does it start on a 30 degree day with no choke and set and idle right off the bat, I have old afbs and avs carbs also, they had a vacumn hook up on the carb that went to the ch9oke pull off, not a vacumn leak in the choke housing.
    Randy Wilkin
    1946 M5 Streetrod
    Hillsboro,Ohio 45133

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