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Thread: Car wont start after Carburetor rebuild

  1. #1
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    Car wont start after Carburetor rebuild

    I recently rebuilt my Stromberg WW carb, meticiously getting every detail right. I put it back on the Commander, re-attatched the fuel lines, and attempted to fire the engine. The car is almost wanting to start(it begins to fire and then returns to normal starting noise) but cant quite make it. Any ideas? It sat for 4 weeks without the carb on, is it normal tomtake this long just to get fuel everywhere again?
    57' Commander

  2. #2
    President Member bezhawk's Avatar
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    Check and be sure the float pivot rod spring is in place. It is a horse shoe shaped wire that presses down on the float pivot pin and is held down by the upper air horn. Without it your float will not work. Also check to be sure the float doesn't have a leak and is a "sinker". If you have a metal needle valve, it is extremely sensitive to dirt/ rust flakes from the gas tank etc. Install a good fuel filter.
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  3. #3
    Silver Hawk Member Milaca's Avatar
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    Did the car run before rebuilding the carburetor?

    In the middle of MinneSTUDEa.

  4. #4
    President Member 62champ's Avatar
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    Might need to prime it a little as well. Sitting that long it might take some priming to get fuel back up to the carburetor without running down the battery.

    Good luck.

  5. #5
    Golden Hawk Member
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    The other thing is the Automatic Choke must be properly set cold to start, that would be very close to closed.
    StudeRich
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  6. #6
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    I have a collection of plastic bottles that come with the hair "tune up kits" that my wife uses to keep her natural blondeness. I clean them out real good & find they are perfect for priming the carb by squirting gas down the venturi & fill the float bowl thru the breather tube. I like doing it that way then using starting fluid.
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  7. #7
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    I had a very simaler situation. Probably not same problem but same symptoms. Although i did have distributor out at one time. Thought problem was timing....wasn't. Took carbuerator off 3 or 4 times and checked rebuild. I think i had multipul problems. One was there was something in gas tank ( a soft metal piece) that gummed up system. Flushed and clean tank to the carb. Rechecked timing etc. Still had same problem you have. One time I kept the key to the start position and the engine kept running. Obviously the Strarter was running also. But now I need to check wiring to starter switch.. Could the starter switch go bad so when you release from the start position it looses power to keep engine running?????? I was thinking of pulling the wire to starter selenoid as soon as it runs and keep key to the start position to see what happens.

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  8. #8
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    Appparently your ignition resistor or resistance wire to coil has an open circuit, when you hold the key on it bypasses that circuit.

    Quote Originally Posted by don samborski View Post
    I had a very simaler situation. Probably not same problem but same symptoms. Although i did have distributor out at one time. Thought problem was timing....wasn't. Took carbuerator off 3 or 4 times and checked rebuild. I think i had multipul problems. One was there was something in gas tank ( a soft metal piece) that gummed up system. Flushed and clean tank to the carb. Rechecked timing etc. Still had same problem you have. One time I kept the key to the start position and the engine kept running. Obviously the Strarter was running also. But now I need to check wiring to starter switch.. Could the starter switch go bad so when you release from the start position it looses power to keep engine running?????? I was thinking of pulling the wire to starter selenoid as soon as it runs and keep key to the start position to see what happens.
    Last edited by 41 Frank; 07-15-2012 at 09:18 AM.
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    President Member 55s's Avatar
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    Get a turkey baster or two from the dollar store to put gas into the side draft WW carb.

    I am guessing that it will start, and that there is a small air leak in the fuel line and the fuel pump can't draw up the gas or the fuel pump is weak or has the wrong actuator arm.

    If it doesn't start with a little gas down the carb throat, I'd be looking at ignition issues.

  10. #10
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    If I pull the wire to the selenoid while holding key to the start position the engine does not continue to run. So I have another problem i guess. Not sure what it is.

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    DSamborski
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  11. #11
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    When cranking the S terminal at the solenoid completes the circuit from the battery to the starter and at the same time energizes the I terminal at the solenoid that feeds 12 volts to the coil by bypassing your resistor. When you pull the wire from the solenoid you are also cutting the power to the coil. Turn the key on and see where you have current. Do you have current at the resistor block on the firewall? If not no power is coming from your switch. If you have power at only one side of the resistor, the resistor is DOA. Almost always if the engine will run in the start position and not in the run position of your ignition switch the problem is the resistor or resistance wire, whatever your vehicle happens to be equipped with. Hope this clears it up for you.

  12. #12
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    41Frank: Thanks, sound very logic and could be my problem...as soon as i check it out i'll let you know.

    Don

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  13. #13
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    Man if ain't one thing its another... I found black lead on coil not making good connection. Put on new terminal connector and put back on. Now it won't even fire. I checked the voltage at that side of the coil (I believe where it is supposed to pulse) Voltage very low and changes slightly. There is 12v on other side. I put the output wire of the coil to the block...no spark until i release start switch, it then sparks once. Seems it sparks when power is shut off.(At this point of voltage change it Produces a voltage spike.)
    Basicly I am not getting spark now. Coil resistance checks okay. Seems to anyway. Across the small leads i get about .6 ohms and about 8k ohm through the coil.
    Last edited by don samborski; 07-17-2012 at 02:26 PM.

    58 Golden Hawk
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  14. #14
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    Did you do as Frank said in post #11? The Resister is most likely dead.
    StudeRich
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  15. #15
    President Member bezhawk's Avatar
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    I wonder if the original poster got his flooding problem sorted out?
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  16. #16
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    I checked the resister and it is open. I'll need get another one and go from there.

    Thanks

    58 Golden Hawk
    DSamborski
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  17. #17
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    8K is on the low side. I like to see around 15-20K.

  18. #18
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    I removed the resister and between the connections there is no continuity. Measure from end to end of the wire and I get a reading,.. Seems the connection points must be so corroded that there is no continuity. I am soaking the part now to see if the corrosion disolves and if that is the problem.

    58 Golden Hawk
    DSamborski
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