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Thread: Steering box, replacement or rebuild?

  1. #1
    Speedster Member
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    Steering box, replacement or rebuild?

    The steering box in my '56 C-coupe is worn. I believe it is time for a rebuild, or other alternative. I have a realitively low mileage Saginaw unit out of a '64 Commander. I remember seeing a diagram of an adapter plate to accomplish the Ross to Saginaw conversion, but I don't remember where. Is there a place that will rebuild my Ross box? Has anyone done the Ross to Saginaw conversion? Is it better to install a rag joint or a Borgesion u-joint set up in the steering shaft to make things easier? Any help is appreciated.

    Kelly Marion

    kelmbaker@msn.com
    Kelly J. Marion

  2. #2
    Golden Hawk Member
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    The biggest trick to doing that swap is having a Certified Welder weld the upper half of your '56 Tubular (hollow) steering shaft to the bottom half of the Solid Shaft '61-'66 Lark gearbox and then trying to figure out how to connect the horn wire which can no longer go though the shaft.

    This has worked very well for the few creative people who have fixed their sloppy steering Ross type SL, C & K Model Boxes by replacing them with the much improved Saginaw recirulating Ball Gearbox.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner



  3. #3
    Speedster Member
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    [QUOTE=kelmbaker;657219]The steering box in my '56 C-coupe is worn. I believe it is time for a rebuild, or other alternative. I have a realitively low mileage Saginaw unit out of a '64 Commander. I remember seeing a diagram of an adapter plate to accomplish the Ross to Saginaw conversion, but I don't remember where. Is there a place that will rebuild my Ross box? Has anyone done the Ross to Saginaw conversion? Is it better to install a rag joint or a Borgesion u-joint set up in the steering shaft to make things easier? Any help is appreciated.

    Kelly Marion

    Kelly,

    Markham Motors, in Florida, specializes in rebuilding steering boxes and has NOS steering boxes. Drop me a note at bomarkham@embarqmail.com, or call 352-528-3304.

  4. #4
    President Member JoeHall's Avatar
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    I did not know the 61-66 Larks had solid steering shafts. Learn something new everyday.

    Joe

  5. #5
    Golden Hawk Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeHall View Post
    I did not know the 61-66 Larks had solid steering shafts. Learn something new everyday.
    Joe
    Joe, the first clue is that tricky brass horn grounding plate on the bottom of the steering wheel, that allows the wire to go through the column JACKET instead of the steering shaft without tangling up on turns.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner



  6. #6
    Golden Hawk Member BobPalma's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kelmbaker View Post
    The steering box in my '56 C-coupe is worn. I believe it is time for a rebuild, or other alternative. I have a realitively low mileage Saginaw unit out of a '64 Commander. I remember seeing a diagram of an adapter plate to accomplish the Ross to Saginaw conversion, but I don't remember where. Is there a place that will rebuild my Ross box? Has anyone done the Ross to Saginaw conversion? Is it better to install a rag joint or a Borgesion u-joint set up in the steering shaft to make things easier? Any help is appreciated. Kelly Marion
    Kelly: The article and bracket you remember seeing is within an excellent, three-page article on the topic in the October 1998 Turning Wheels; Pages 28-30.

    It is not within The Co-Operator column; we made it a stand-alone technical article due to its length and excellent photos and graphics supplied by author Dave Barnett. BP

  7. #7
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    Dave Nevin
    Corvallis, OR
    1953 Champion Deluxe Coupe
    Stud-e-venture blog

  8. #8
    President Member
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    IF you are going to cut & weld on a steering shaft, be sure to have a qualified welder do it, and, have one end turned down, and the other end machinned out so it slides over the oppisite shaft. Dill a hole all the way through it, then re drill the outer sleeve a little bigger. Weld up the hole, then tig weld it all the way around. magnaflux it for cracks, and be done. By drilling 2 different size holes, the weld will penatrate both parts, and by welding all around, you should never have any problems.

    Jim
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  9. #9
    Speedster Member
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    I never thanked everyone for their observations. I will contact the company about a rebuild. The change over to Saginaw is way to complicated. The car has been in the shop and under restoration for way to long. LARES corporation in Wisconsin(?) rebulds the steering boxes. But it can wait. Please see my post concerning my impending engine swap. It stll doen's seem to hitting the forum. If you are kinf enough to reply, reply to kelmbaker@msn.com Love this place,

    KM
    Kelly J. Marion

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