Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

rear disc brakes

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Brakes: rear disc brakes

    With so many cars using a dana 44 rear end is there any disc brake set ups that can or could be made to fit the studebaker rear housing ? Just thought maybe there is a factory set up that would be as good and cheaper to install than a after market set up. Would be a lot easier to get parts for to. Just go to napa and order what you need.

  • #2
    Short answer, yes. A couple of kits, including the Steeltech from Dave Levesque, offered in the past used early GM Cadillac single piston disc calipers because they had an integral parking brake. As those too are long out of production, can't hardly buy them any more. Last I checked, they were a order-only item at NAPA.

    The question you didn't ask is do street-driven Studes really need rear disc brakes? I've done several rear disc conversions and couldn't tell it really improved the stopping power. Since a Stude carries almost sixty percent of the static weight on the front end, on a hard stop, the weight transfer requires the front brakes to do 80% of the work of stopping the car.

    FWIW, the Avanti is the worst and AC-equipped are the worst of the worst. Even with the stock front discs, on a hard stop, especially downhill, so much weight transfers to the front, the right rear will usually lock first. Not the best for stability.

    jack vines
    PackardV8

    Comment


    • #3
      Well, you can go to NAPA and get most of the parts you need for a Turner Brake rear disc setup, but, of course, there are a few Studebaker-unique brackets and small parts you must buy from Jim at Turner Brake.

      See his business-card ad in any Turning Wheels. BP
      We've got to quit saying, "How stupid can you be?" Too many people are taking it as a challenge.

      G. K. Chesterton: This triangle of truisms, of father, mother, and child, cannot be destroyed; it can only destroy those civilizations which disregard it.

      Comment


      • #4
        I have a set of Steeltech rear disk brake brackets, installation instructions and NAPA parts list if you are interested. I just never could justify the time and effort to install them. PM me it you want them.
        Dan White
        64 R1 GT
        64 R2 GT
        58 C Cab
        57 Broadmoor (Marvin)

        Comment


        • #5
          I, too, have a Steeltech rear disc setup on my Ford rear end...
          Having said that, in the future, I would only put a Turner rear disc setup on my Dana 44 rear...


          Originally posted by Dan White View Post
          I have a set of Steeltech rear disk brake brackets, installation instructions and NAPA parts list if you are interested. I just never could justify the time and effort to install them. PM me it you want them.
          HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

          Jeff


          Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



          Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

          Comment


          • #6
            I got the Turner front and rear set up for my 76 Avanti. Fronts went on with no problems. The rear brackets would not fit on the axle housing ends as mine were a 6 bolt "U-shaped" type set up (3:31 TT) and the Turners were for a 4 bolt set up. I went to "plan B" and rebuilt the drum set up along with replacing all the brake lines and fluid.
            sigpic[SIGPIC]

            Comment


            • #7
              sounds like rebuilt drum rears and disc brakes on the front is the way to go.

              Comment


              • #8
                One for a....yes on rear discs.

                I've got four wheel discs on my 54 Conestoga. I used Wilwood calipers (4 piston) at all four corners. The fronts have larger pistons than the rears.
                I'm using a double action master cylinder with no power booster.

                It's about the best stopping car I've ever owned.

                Mike

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Mike Van Veghten View Post
                  I'm using a double action master cylinder with no power booster.

                  It's about the best stopping car I've ever owned.

                  Mike
                  Mike

                  Please tell more about your master cylinder. Make, model, placement etc?

                  Thanks

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Don -

                    Wilwood, tandom-remote
                    Nuthin special. Just sized the caliper piston sq. in. to the master cyl. piston.
                    Wilwood makes a wide assortment of small, lightweight master cylinders that are suitable for high performance street and racing applications and they are available in a variety of bore sizes. This page displays Master Cylinders

                    Second from the bottom of page.

                    Made up a bracket and mounted the cylinder in basically the OEM location, with all stock hard parts.
                    A residual valve for both the front and rear.

                    Most don't understand that by doing some quick, easy math, there's normally no need for a booster (for normal sized/weight cars anyway). Why the aftermarket (and factories) does it is beyond me..other than...it's the "normal" thing to do..!

                    Mike

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Thanks for the good reply, Mike.

                      I always thought my 53 Hdtp stopped nicely with the later 57 finned brakes all around and the original single circuit 53 MC.

                      My 54 came with dual parallel MCs, not a tandem unit, and it requires a heavy foot. Obviously not sized properly.

                      Good web site.

                      Don

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I have adjusted brake hydraulics several times with good results. My old 71 bronco just didn't stop very well, so I did some research and bought one size larger wheel cylinders for the front wheels, and voila, great stopping power.

                        My 74 mercedes 240d never stopped like it should. I had a newer model and 82 I think which stopped very nicely, so I subsitituted the larger front calipers from the newer model onto the older car and then it stopped just like the 82. It is not rocket science and the results can be startling. Changing tire sizes also has a big effect on braking performance.....larger tires less braking leverage....smaller more mechanical advantage. it is easily overlooked.

                        I don't know how the heck those guys with those ridiculous 42" tires on their older caprices ever get them stopped....same with the huge tired 4 x 4's.

                        Yikes!
                        Diesel loving, autocrossing, Coupe express loving, Grandpa Architect.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by DEEPNHOCK View Post
                          I, too, have a Steeltech rear disc setup on my Ford rear end...
                          Having said that, in the future, I would only put a Turner rear disc setup on my Dana 44 rear...
                          I was searching just now and found Steeltech seems to be out of business...anybody have any info on them?
                          Diesel loving, autocrossing, Coupe express loving, Grandpa Architect.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Two good reasons for rear discs -
                            1. Living in a rainy states (Washington, Oregon, all points in the north east).
                            2. Living in mountainous areas. Discs cool a lot better thAn drums do.

                            Drag racing is a twofold proposition.
                            1. Drums are normally lighter thAn "factory" type disc brakes. Most aftermarket rotors designed for drag racing are lighter thAn both factory disc and drum brakes.
                            2. As in #2 above, drums get hot quick reducing their effect on continued passes down the 1/4 (1/8) mile. Most disc will greatly reduce that problem.

                            Mike

                            P.s. - "t", that's why you sometimes just have to do it yourself....

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              PLus, when the drum heats up it expands away from the braking material, reducing its effectiveness. When a disc expands it expands toward the braking material. ...and disc brakes are much much easier to service than drums.

                              Originally posted by Mike Van Veghten View Post
                              Two good reasons for rear discs -
                              1. Living in a rainy states (Washington, Oregon, all points in the north east).
                              2. Living in mountainous areas. Discs cool a lot better thAn drums do.

                              Drag racing is a twofold proposition.
                              1. Drums are normally lighter thAn "factory" type disc brakes. Most aftermarket rotors designed for drag racing are lighter thAn both factory disc and drum brakes.
                              2. As in #2 above, drums get hot quick reducing their effect on continued passes down the 1/4 (1/8) mile. Most disc will greatly reduce that problem.

                              Mike

                              P.s. - "t", that's why you sometimes just have to do it yourself....
                              Diesel loving, autocrossing, Coupe express loving, Grandpa Architect.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X