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Thread: LOTS of new Studebaker owners Lately: welcome! Post Here

  1. #601
    Champion Member
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    Hello Everyone,
    I have good news. It took me 5 months to find someone who would work on my Champ 8E7. Last Monday he came back over with the Stromberg 2 barrel carburator he had rebuilt from a kit I got. He put it on, then added 2 inline gas see-through filters, and we cranked it and she started right up. He did adjustments and she runs pretty nice and smooth and quiet. He did say I have carbon build up, so I'll get some upper engine additive to work on that. The clutch pedal was just at floor level and he made some adjustments, and put it in gear and she went forward as she should've. Today I spent two hours on the pass. side window crank mechanism, WD-40 then light oil, over and over. It was froze up from rust, and it seemed to melt away, and I was able to crank the window all down and all up now, that was a relief as monsoons are going on. I've went on a buying spree for the brakes, omg, it is not cheap, I used the vendors on here and rockauto.com and have spent about $1300.00 for parts, he will do the brake lines by measuring and so forth. I cannot tell you how appreciative I am of this man, he is a mechanic by trade by is helping me because he wants to see a rusty old truck cruise down to Waffle-n-More on a Saturday as much as I do.. No local shops would touch the Champ. If not for this man, I'd have had to put it up on jack stands and covered it up. I could have got bearings way cheaper at three different places, but opted to get them from a vendor on here for much more as I want them uniform, and they know the Champ up and down, so I'll pay more. I was a little shocked at drums being 195.00 but I don't want chinese knock offs. I am redoing the door panels myself, one was too far gone. Going to get a 1/8th in door skin and cut it to match the size and draw the pattern on it then paint it just like the grey and pinkish color and black that was on it. I'll use self cutting metal screws with grommets on thin rubber washers. The driver panel is not to bad, but I guess I should just do them both so it matches. The interior is really nice thankfully. Having the clutch work was a real money saver. It had set for 11 yrs when I got it. I put new 205/70/15 tires and got 78 chevy 15 x 6(7)? wheels at a you pick it yard. The original wheels were a mess, rusted, flakey, and two were wider than the others, so I found the 15 in Chevy wheels with the same bolt pattern 5.0 x 5.0. They went on perfect. Right now it is pouring outside so I am thankful I got the passenger window to be able to roll up. I'll post more after the brake job. Right now I am pooped, it was a hot afternoon till the monsoon hit. Thanks for all your comments and everything. Robert, Arizona

  2. #602
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    ps-The 1300.00 for parts is not covering all, I am stilling having to buy more parts. I think I'll top out at 1500.00 to 1600.00 which is pretty darn good. I was lucky my Champ's 259 engine only needed all tune up parts and the carb rebuilt. I did notice the water pump is leaking, but I'll do that after the brakes. If I can get it to stop safely, I'll feel like we accomplished something. The outside will remain as it is; faded, rusty here and there, but wow does it have character, or as they say now..."patina". I would never paint over that patina, it earned every faded area and every rust spot. I will treat the rust with those inhibitors, or just use vinegar and water 50% mix. The body shop said it would last about 10 or more years as it is, and that is all I want out of it. By then the manual steering will relegate me to sitting in it in my yard, and eating a sandwich while drinking a bottle of Miller Lite.

  3. #603
    Silver Hawk Member
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    rle1875-
    Congrats on your progress. It sounds like you're on the right track. One word of caution -- the Chevy truck wheels will fit, but the ribs on the Stude drum tend to push the wheel out too far for the lug nuts to engage fully. You may want to install longer studs.

  4. #604
    Champion Member
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    KY
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    New member. My mother's maiden name was Baker and about 45 years ago we did some research and found out that originally it was . . . wait for it . . . Studebaker. A few years ago my dad did some additional research and found out that we actually are distantly related to the Studebaker automobile family.

    My mother passed in 2002 with ALS (Lou Gehrig's Disease) and dad decided to honor her by buying and restoring a Studebaker from the year she was born. He located and purchased a 1940 President 2 door and started the restoration. He didn't get very far and his health deteriorated and we lost him in May.

    Main reason I'm here is to hopefully find someone who is interested in purchasing the car. I'll post a separate thread for the sale. Someday I hope to locate a Studebaker Hawk to purchase from the year I was born, 1959.

  5. #605
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    Jul 2017
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    Chetek, WI
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    Well folks I see this is a good place to start. I am new here (of course). To be honest I knew next to nothing about Studes until I met my wife 25+ years ago. My father-in-law was a Stude guy since he was young. When I met him he had a '62 Lark VIII convert. and his fathers '51 Champion that were driveable. He also had 4 other Larks, 2 pickups and a '57 Scotsman. The Scotsman intrigued me the most because it was different; a very stripped down car. He bought it at an auction in '88 for $103. He drove it a little bit then parked it in his garage to restore. He did the necessary body work but never got any farther than that. So it sat in the garage until he passed last Oct. (He was a member of the SDC for many many years (his name was Melvin Vana). He willed the '57 to me last year; mine once he passed. So finally 2 weeks ago I went out to start something with it. Well it was in the garage with alot of stuff all around it. So, I went back this past weekend and moved some stuff in front and pulled it out of the garage. Turns out the back brakes are locked up. That is okay I knew it was going to need work. He stripped all the trim and headlight and taillight assemblies wiper arms and so on. It is pretty much ready for primer and paint. Being that it has the original Owner's Manual there is a tag in the back that lists the color and paint code: Admiral Blue Enamel BCA. Also in the upper left: W662. I just talked to my brother-in-law and he noticed that the Emergency brake handle is pulled out about a 1/4 of the way. He said it wouldn't push back in so I will probably cut the cables and see what gives. Well I better cut this long intro and go from here.

    Later. Pepse.

  6. #606
    President Member
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    Pepse,
    Before you cut the cables, buy a real expensive penetrant and soak all the exposed cables you can reach. Leave it for a few days and you'll probably have them free themselves up. Hope this saves you some money & grief. Also-Welcome.
    Bill

  7. #607
    Silver Hawk Member
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    What Buzzard said. The rear cable is a bit of a pain to replace, so disconnect it from the front cable and try to free them up where they go through the tubes to the rear brakes. Did the rear wheels drag when you moved it?

  8. #608
    Golden Hawk Member StudeRich's Avatar
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    The E-brake being partially applied for years may have caused the Wheel Cylinders and or Brake Shoes to Seize and will not allow a return of the E-Brake Cable.

    If you get the Hub and Drum Puller that bolts to 3 of the wheel studs, (Some Auto Parts Stores Rent these) and remove the Rear Drums you will see the problem.
    Welcome to the SDC and to the SDC Forum Jim! Good luck with your 'Scotty"!
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner




  9. #609
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    I thank you all for the Welcome. As for the e-brake? I would rather Not cut any cables. I recall years ago wanting to do that on a car and was told pretty much the same thing. Of course my brother-in-law suggested it and it sounded good; quick easy and the car moves. Not realizing the nightmare to replace it. So, I will look for a real good penetrant. Any ideas on the best? My brother-in-law said he has a puller but I have no idea what type. Chances are his brother has one like you mention. Or I will look around for one to borrow. Doing it as you people state is the best. I guess I am overly anxious to get this car on the road. It's been 17 years since I had a "toy" to play with. I need to be patient.

    I have a few other questions but I will start a thread outside of this INTRO page. Of course I will answer and keep you people up to date on this item.

    Thank you. Pepse.

  10. #610
    Silver Hawk Member
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    One good penetrant is to make a 50-50 mix of acetone and ATF. Use it right away, as the acetone will evaporate quickly. The thin acetone dilutes the ATF and allows it get into rusty areas, then evaporates.

  11. #611
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    New guy from DMI

    Recently purchased a 1952 champion. Not sure much more about it as far as deluxe and the like. If anybody has any place they know of where i can find thijgs like factory color options and what trim level i have i would very much appreciate it! Thank you. If i knew how to post pictures i would have!

  12. #612
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    Hi to everyone on here, I have had a GMC CCKW352 ww2 Truck for over 20 years, been in the military vehicle restoration world for the same amount of time. I have now just purchased a 1942 President 8. Body number on engine firewall is 8CW-7 455, it has a 124 inch wheelbase. I believe it was exported from Texas in 2012 and has had several owners in between, now I have got it I intend to restore it to as near original condition as possible, the interior is in a very bad condition no door cards or headlining, front and rear seats are all ripped to shreds lots of the trim bits are missing. Expect I will need lots of the hard to come by bits I think. I could do with a wiring diagram to be able to sort out the stupid wiring faults and also what and where all the switches and knobs go and what they are for.

    Looking forward to all your valued support in this battle with me and Rudie the Studebaker.
    Last edited by R Cubed; 08-14-2017 at 02:33 PM.

  13. #613
    Golden Hawk Member StudeRich's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DCsdime16 View Post
    Recently purchased a 1952 champion. Not sure much more about it as far as deluxe and the like. If anybody has any place they know of where i can find thijgs like factory color options and what trim level i have i would very much appreciate it! Thank you. If i knew how to post pictures i would have!
    Welcome to the SDC and to the SDC Forum!

    Yes, just tell us what the body Tag on the Firewall, under the Hood, right side says, and we will tell you if it is a Custom, Regal, Regal Deluxe etc.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner




  14. #614
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    I got this 1952 Commander Starlight Coupe about a month ago. I'd had a couple of Buick's in the last 4 years or so - a '55 that was running and 2 51's that I brought back from dead. Not sure how long this coupe had been sitting - was told something on the order of 17 years. It's had work done - multiple paint jobs, interior replaced, and I'm finding out the brake system was a mess. I bought it engine running, but no brakes at all - not even parking brake.

    Through the AACA forum, I was told the rear brakes are '54-up, and the fronts had parts missing and the wheel cylinders were dead. So to match the rears, I went to a local vintage salvage yard and got brakes from a '57. Working on getting these installed now. Already replaced the master cylinder, and figured out the parking brake cable clip at the master cylinder was missing (so no way for that cable to get tight enough to activate the brake). Also got the parking brake clip at the salvage yard.

    Still working on getting everything done with swapping the front brakes, but it's almost ready to bleed the system and try a little driving.

    52_stude_right_front2.jpg

  15. #615
    Champion Member
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    Sep 2017
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    Michigan
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    Hello! Finally found an all original 1954 Commander after a bit of searching - a sedan with 24k original miles! Looking forward to being a part of the club.

    Paul

  16. #616
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    Sep 2017
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    Kentucky
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    This is my first Studebaker 1940 Studebaker President 4 door. I bought it off Craigslist from a member here a Mr. Strader.
    I retired from last year (I owned a performace automotive machine shop with dyno) and have been a specialist in 455 Buick engines. I wanted an old car to fix up and bought a 41 Ford with plans of putting in a SBC but when I found this car I fell in love with it so now the Ford is for sale.

  17. #617
    President Member (S)'s Avatar
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    I started this post years ago. I never thought it would just keep growing. Welcome new Studebaker owners! This is Awesome!!! (S)igned 3rd gen Studebaker Parts /shop in NW WA State
    Last edited by (S); 09-11-2017 at 12:48 AM.

  18. #618
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    Grand Rapids, MI
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    Hello All,
    I'm new to Studebaker's. I've always liked them, I was never really looking for one until I recently saw a 1956 Champion for sale less than a mile from my house. I pulled up and started talking to the guy selling it. He didn't know much about the car or service history as it was his father's who had passed. Long story short he just wanted to get rid of the car. I fell in love it right away and we made a deal.
    The car starts right up, runs great and drives (sort of) most of the time it will stall when you put it into gear. After spending some time trying to get the tune just right I'm thinking a carburetor rebuild is in order. I have a carburetor kit on the way. I'm thinking the carburetor rebuild should do the trick but, not knowing the service history of the car, and the plugs looking pretty worn, I ordered some new ignition parts as well. Any good online resources out there for torque specs, gap specs, etc.? This car is a little different from the big V8 with a Holley 4 Barrel Carb on my (other) project.
    I was able to take the car out for a short cruise on International Drive Your Studebaker Day this past weekend but looking forward to being able to take it for longer drives/cruises. I already found a good amount of knowledge on this site.

    0902171015a.jpg

  19. #619
    Commander Member
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    Rossmoor CA
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    I realize I'm about 7 years late but nonetheless glad to be part of this club. Just purchased a 1950 Commander Starlight. Frame-off restoration 10 years ago. Needs some spit and polish but she's cleaning up nicely. I have a specific question about a concern with the engine and was wondering how to post this question on the forum. Can anyone help? I am a member, not a guest.

  20. #620
    Silver Hawk Member
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    Anyone can post -- just ask your question on either the General or Tech Talk pages.

  21. #621
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    Chesterfield, SC
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    Bryan here - was looking into buying a Golden Hawk in bad shape but joined to find options. My father had a 1956 Golden Hawk when i was about 7 yrs old. I'm 60 now. Wish I could find it..

  22. #622
    Golden Hawk Member StudeRich's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cinderblock View Post
    CUT/Any good online resources out there for torque specs, gap specs, etc.? /CUT/
    Hello Mark, Welcome to the SDC and to the SDC Forum!

    You will find many Parts and also Shop Manuals and the BEST, well Illustrated, and detailed Chassis and Body PARTS Catalogs in the industry here:
    http://studebakervendors.com

    These Books are way cheaper on CD ROM Discs, and you get them ALL on one!
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner




  23. #623
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    Jun 2016
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    Riverside, CA
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    Just paid my membership to SDC. My wife got rid of her 2015 Nissan Rouge and bought a 63 Lark Cruiser for her daily driver. This is her second Studebaker and loves it to death. She bought a Lark Cruiser in 1999 but ended up selling it in 2002 after we moved from the SF Bay Area back down to So Cal, that was a tough decision considering all the work I put into it. I'm actually an International Harvester guy but I'm big fan of the Studes too....wait, now that I think about, I'm a Studebaker guy too!
    Cheers,
    JOE

    --------------------------------------------------

    "After all is said and done, a hell of a lot more is said than done"
    Clark Olmstead

  24. #624
    Golden Hawk Member StudeRich's Avatar
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    Welcome Joe, glad to have another West Coaster joining us!

    63Cruiser63V19568_R1 Hovander 08.jpg Here's one from up here in the Pacific Northwest.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner




  25. #625
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    Thanks Rich, that’s a beauty. She’s the same color as the first one we owned.
    Cheers,
    JOE

    --------------------------------------------------

    "After all is said and done, a hell of a lot more is said than done"
    Clark Olmstead

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