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Thread: R\R wiring harness 62 hawk

  1. #1
    Speedster Member K-Hawk's Avatar
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    Question R\R wiring harness 62 hawk

    The wiring harness in my 62 hawk is a mess it has been cut and spliced together at many locations.
    Today I removed the wiring harness from another 62 hawk a gt. It looks very similar. I found a rectangular box. I am hoping it is for the tack. I have a GT dash I am installing. I will be using all the light hooks up. Current ones are butt spliced and all wires are yellow every where. I have gotten a manual now and the wiring digram and am anxious to start . I want lights and a working charging system too. Any advise before I disable my car. The ignition switch on the car does not have a plug harness does- I didn't see many fuses just 3 1 inline and another 2 on a ceramic block.
    Will I need to bleed my brakes if I need to change my brake light sensor? if that what it is left of the steering column under the hood.

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    Speedster Member brian6373's Avatar
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    Wink

    Hi, I would advise you to get the wiring diagram that is in the tech tips page. It is a lot easier to read than the one in the manual, and the wires are all labled with the correct colors. As in another thread, take out the front seat to give you more room. I spent three hours under my dash a couple of weeks ago, and wound up having to go to the chiropactor to get my neck fixed. I got lazy and did the work scrunched up on the floor with the seat in. Never again! Good Luck!

    Brian
    Last edited by brian6373; 11-12-2011 at 12:33 AM.

  3. #3
    Speedster Member K-Hawk's Avatar
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    thanks I just printed it, and I will remove the seat . I am to old, I just don't bend like that any longer.

  4. #4
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    I am about to order a new wiring harness for my '63 GT Hawk and will be replacing my "splicemare" this Winter. I had hoped to remove the dash entirely to make it easier to wire up. Is that not possible or just not worth the bother?

  5. #5
    Speedster Member K-Hawk's Avatar
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    I did not have real difficulty removing the harness from the parts hawk even found the tach box. I think with removing the front seat drives side it won't be that difficult. The intack harness looks much more friendly than the mess in there now. Beside I can always take something else out. Good luck. Did you purchase a nos harness. I am using one from an old car it appears ok I will test wires with ohms meter prior to installing it . I also was able to get new headlight plugs and a voltage regulator. I may need a new ignition switch. I am comparing them and my hawk appears to have something else in it, spliced in. The hardest thing I encountered was pulling the connectors off the switches I am soaking-sparyed and wait with liquid wrench no information on much it helped.

  6. #6
    Speedster Member K-Hawk's Avatar
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    I just was thinking perhaps it might be easier to remove switches, attach to new harness then move harness into car then all thats left are gauges-dash light bulbs- and the remaing plug ins and under the hood. I also have had success working through the speedo-clock and tach openings- good time to lube speedo
    Last edited by K-Hawk; 11-13-2011 at 11:05 AM. Reason: another thought

  7. #7
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    I will remove the instrument panel for a complete rewire job. That way it's easier to install the new harness and also replace the defroster hoses and lube the wiper linkage while it is exposed. It's a little more work to remove the panel, but it saves hours on your back under the panel. Bud

  8. #8
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    Thanks Bud. Removing the instrument panel sounds like the way to go.

    K-Hawk: I am planning on getting a new harness from Studebakerswest. Too much potential trouble with an aged harness. If I am going to do it, I only want to do it once.

  9. #9
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    Does the Stude West wiring harness have the dash wiring attached? And, does anyone make a seperate dash wiring harness for a Stude?

  10. #10
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    The wire harness for the GT Hawk's are one piece, there isn't a seperate connection on the harness at the firewall like a GM or Chrysler product. That's why I remove the panel for a harness replacement. There is a seperate harness for the rear of the car that runs along the floor on the drivers side. I just used a Studebaker West harness to rewire a 1950 Champion. They build a good harness for a good price. The only issue would be for a 100 point car as the wire in the harness has PVC insulation and not cloth like the original. Bud

  11. #11
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    I am wondering what the deal is. I bought a wiring harness from a Stude vendor, and had a Stude owner, and electric shop owner put in the harness. But it still looks like a rats nest under the dash. I don't know.

  12. #12
    Speedster Member K-Hawk's Avatar
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    chucks stude I am hoping well place zip ties and electrical tubing the plastic kind will help eliminate the rat nest look.

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