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Thread: horn button/ ring removal

  1. #1
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    horn button/ ring removal

    How is the horn button/ring removed on a 1950 Studebaker Champion. I have pulled on mine pretty hard to no avail. I'm afraid to pry on it with anything or pull on it too hard for fear of breaking it.
    Last edited by socko29; 10-31-2011 at 07:18 PM. Reason: clarification

  2. #2
    President Member (S)'s Avatar
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    Twist the button only, do not pull. The horn ring/bar is held by screws behind the button.

  3. #3
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    Mike is correct, but you need to turn it 1/4 or less. You must have a metal cap with a S stamped on it.

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    Thanks so much. I actually wanted to remove just the horn button. I'm glad I got your great advice before I did something dumb. I was able to remove the button by turning it, while applying upward pressure with my fingernails. I wanted to replace my old heavily cracked plastic Studebaker Crest button. Thanks again for your wise expertise.
    Last edited by socko29; 10-31-2011 at 07:16 PM. Reason: clarification

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    Commander Member Jersey2J's Avatar
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    Would I use this same technique with the horn button on a 1954 Studebaker 3R6-12 pickup truck? I'm having an issue with the horn making sound when I turn the steeering wheel all the way to the left. I assume that I need to adjust the sensitivity or check the wiring? Any help is appreciated.
    Jason Michaels
    Sacramento, CA

    1950 Studebaker Champion 4-Door DeLuxe / 3R6-12 Studebaker pickup truck
    Visit my Studebaker website http://www.studebakerguide.com


  6. #6
    Speedster Member bosshoss61's Avatar
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    Socko29....Welcome to the site...I'm pretty new myself, but I have found some of these guys can help out a whole bunch. Do you have the manual for your car? I am about 60% done working on my 50 Studebaker Champion Deluxe 9G. I've done all the work myself. I have the shop manual, in the garage that I use every day. Everything about our cars are weird(especially the brakes and wiring), so the manual really helps. There is a wire that sticks out of the steering box under the hood that connects to the horn. It could be grounding out--good time to replace it. I can get you the color and gage wire if you want? Rick from Des Moines, Iowa...........It's snowing here today

  7. #7
    President Member RadioRoy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jersey2J View Post
    Would I use this same technique with the horn button on a 1954 Studebaker 3R6-12 pickup truck? I'm having an issue with the horn making sound when I turn the steeering wheel all the way to the left. I assume that I need to adjust the sensitivity or check the wiring? Any help is appreciated.
    More likely is that the wire that goes down the inside of the steering column is frayed where it exits the column under the hood. If you can find the wire under the hood, maybe you can slip some un-shrunk heat shrink tubing up its length inside the column and that might cure the problem.
    RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

    17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
    10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
    10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
    4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
    5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
    56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
    60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

  8. #8
    Commander Member Jersey2J's Avatar
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    Great advice, BossHoss61 and RadioRoy. Thanks so much. I'll pop the hood after work.
    Jason Michaels
    Sacramento, CA

    1950 Studebaker Champion 4-Door DeLuxe / 3R6-12 Studebaker pickup truck
    Visit my Studebaker website http://www.studebakerguide.com


  9. #9
    Speedster Member bosshoss61's Avatar
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    I like shrink wrap too---Roy. I've never change out the whole horn wire yet. But, wouldn't that be a better option? And on that year and model the wire comes right out the end of the steering column.................somehow.

  10. #10
    Commander Member Jersey2J's Avatar
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    Fellas. I see two green wires that lead from the column under the hood right up to the horns. They look fine under the hood, so I assume I have an issue under the horn button or in the column. The horn still unexpectedly honks when turning left. Question like socko29's: How do I remove this button without breaking it? (see image)

    Thanks!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Jason Michaels
    Sacramento, CA

    1950 Studebaker Champion 4-Door DeLuxe / 3R6-12 Studebaker pickup truck
    Visit my Studebaker website http://www.studebakerguide.com


  11. #11
    President Member RadioRoy's Avatar
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    -Disconnect the battery so that the neighbors do not have to "enjoy" hearing your horn.
    -Press the palm of your hand, hard, onto the horn button.
    -While pressing, rotate the button and your hand counter clockwise.

    it should come off

    The wire usually goes bad inside the column, just as it exits the column, but it might be bad inside the column higher up. The fact that it only happens when the wheel is all the way to the left tells me that the wire is twisting into some weird position. Turning the wheel to the extreme should not affect the horn button, but the button is fairly easy to remove.
    Last edited by RadioRoy; 05-04-2013 at 04:35 PM.
    RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

    17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
    10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
    10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
    4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
    5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
    56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
    60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

  12. #12
    Commander Member Jersey2J's Avatar
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    Thanks RadioRoy. Do you know what gauge wire the horn wire is? I'm going to try to replace it.

  13. #13
    President Member RadioRoy's Avatar
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    Anything over 20 or 22 gauge will work. The more flexible the wire, the better.

    All the wire is doing is energizing the coil of the horn relay.

    Before you pull the old wire out, solder the new wire to the end of the old wire and make a smooth connection. Then use the old wire to pull the new wire through the column.
    RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

    17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
    10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
    10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
    4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
    5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
    56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
    60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

  14. #14
    President Member Swifster's Avatar
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    So if you are going to pull the horn ring to replate it, cut off the horn wire and leave in the column so that a new wire can be routed later? I have a '64.

    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Tom - Sterling Heights, MI

    1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
    1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD

  15. #15
    Commander Member Jersey2J's Avatar
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    Job done! Thanks everyone. Your advice worked perfectly and the issue is gone. The wire was original and worn inside the column.
    Jason Michaels
    Sacramento, CA

    1950 Studebaker Champion 4-Door DeLuxe / 3R6-12 Studebaker pickup truck
    Visit my Studebaker website http://www.studebakerguide.com


  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swifster View Post
    So if you are going to pull the horn ring to replate it, cut off the horn wire and leave in the column so that a new wire can be routed later? I have a '64.
    Everyone; please note that when you enter a new post on an existing String about a different year and model, a LOT of things can change.

    (1) The horn button type in discussion here is the "Basic" type steering wheel which uses a Horn "Button".
    (2) If you have a Model with a Horn "Ring" everything changes, the Trim "Button" is held in by an "O" Ring.
    (3) If you have a newer model '61 and up, the horn wire does not go through the steering shaft, it exits under the dash with the Turn signal wires.

    So in the case of a '64 I would NOT cut anything, the wire unplugs at both ends but must be carefully removed through the column and it's a very tight fit usually better done by removing the Wheel and all the wires which would be on Column Automatic Trans. Cars, the Shift Dial Light wire and all of the Turn Signal harness wires, and Stop Light wires with the horn wire to prevent damage.

    Also, the late type do not get any twisting action and I have never seen one fail.
    Last edited by StudeRich; 05-13-2013 at 02:29 PM.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner



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