hardtop window "liners"

[Michidan]

I am doing a full resto on all the side windows in 52 hardtop. It's been a real pain getting all the tracks & regulators cleaned up. Then new glass and new rubber from SI all inside the frames. I also had to get the little wheel kit from SI as these were all completely shot. (most were rusted totally away, nothing left but the outer ring).

Note to 52 owners - the back side windows use different size rollers than the front side windows. I think these are not available. You either have to fab your own or hope the originals are not too bad. There are 8.

It seems I am totally missing some pieces called liners, I see them in the SI catalog for 53 and up K body but not 52. Some sort of wrapping that goes on the leading edge of the front windows, and helps it slide in the vent window channel.
Does anyone have any experience with trying to do without these liners? Or whether the 53 and ups will work in the 52 and down channels?

Dan
52 hardtop

[Jeff_H]

I can't speak to whether the '53 up "liner" will work on a '52, but I will describe it for you and hopefully that will help.

The cross section of the front of the hardtop window on a 53K is "T" shaped. The T runs in a channel on the back of the vent window frame. There is a sheet metal wrapper with "fuzzy" material glued to it that crimps over the T so that it now becomes a fuzzy T. When its installed in the car, the fuzzy T now slides in the channel and won't rattle. The metal part of the wrapper tends to rust (not stainless like the window frame itself) and the fuzzy material wears out or rots away. The parts from SI (I have on my car) are just new pre-bent sheet metal with some of the fuzzy glued to them. I suspect you could make your own if you have some sort of tooling to do the bends in the sheet metal. I put a little silicone goop on the window frame to act as glue and crimped them on using a big wide pliers (vice grips with wide blades for holding sheet metal together for welding). If the '52 is similar, I bet only maybe the length is different?? Given the dimensions of the bare T on the window frame w/o the liner on it, I bet the window would rattle horribly.


Jeff in ND

'53 Champion Hardtop

[Michidan]

I think it's a safe assumption the T shape would be the same, and that it is just length that varies. (but if anyone knows different holler!)

Jeff, you've convinced me I'll need something here rather than gobs of grease. Problem is I have already invested more than I though the windows would need, so the frugal Stude mentality is taking over. Liners are $43 each.
So far I have no clever ideas for homemade replacements. Maybe some sort of plastic rib on each wing of the T.


Dan
52 hardtop

[avantilover]

Spend the money to do it right lest other methods lead to problems. How much would it cost to replace the new glass if it broke? Nothing wrong with frugality when it's appropriate.

John Clements
Avantilover, your South Australian Studebaker lover!!!
Lockleys South Australia

[S2DSteve]

If they're the same as '53, they actually don't help it slide easier and in fact can make it more sluggish. They do make the windows a lot quiter tho. Regardless, I've used sticky back "fuzzy" velcro for a multitude of similar applications, including replacing the "cat whiskers", the trailing edge of hardtop and the leading edge of coupe windows and the "box" that the rear quarter windows go in. Rather than covering the 'T', you might try lining the inside of the receiving channel.


Steve Hudson
The Dalles, Oregon
1937 Dictator Streetrod
1949 "GMOBaker" 1-T Dually
1953 Commander Convertible
1954 Champion Coupe

[Michidan]

I will relate my experience here just in case someone ends up with the same idea, and wonders how it's going to work. I think my "solution" here was more trouble than it was worth, and definitely not correct from a restoration standpoint. I have seen the liners that SI sells for 53 and up, and they could work for 52 I am sure. I simply did not have the $100 to spend this month and desired to get the windows back together using a good homebrewed solution.

After considering gluing velcro or heavy felt around the "T" shape I decided against it. Did not think it would last, and as the car is going to rumble with a C***y big block, quiet operation is not a consideration.

But something has to take up the space between the T and the large slot. From the hobby store I purchased 1/4" dia thin wall aluminum tube. There it was on the shelf for $2 so I tried it. Slit the tube long-ways with the dremel cutting wheel. Slid one tube onto each "arm" of the T, 2 tubes per window.
(a picture would be appropriate here, sorry did not take one. But the 2 tubes pretty much take up the large slot space in the vent window frame.)
The tubes crimped onto the T pretty good, but I added some good old JB weld down the seam for insurance. Applied liberal grease in the tracks and installed. A little stiff at first! After many trips up and down however, it's working.

So I have a dis-similar metal on metal window guide here, with about the correct amount of give. Windows installed into the doors OK and goes up and down without tilting or binding. Gets better the more you use it. Will need grease on occasion I suppose.

Again, would I recomend to someone else? Don't know, ask me 5 years from now.

Dan
52 hardtop

https://www.studebakerhardtop.com