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Thread: Repairing floor rust by back seat...will the fender need to go...

  1. #1
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    Repairing floor rust by back seat...will the fender need to go...

    I just ordered a new right rear body brace and a filler panel to finish the right side floor repair on my Lark hardtop. I discovered that my quick repair years ago made a heck of a mess that I need to correct. Can anyone tell me if I am going to need to remove the rear fender to do any welding in (or under) the window pocket?

    thanks

    Jeff T.

    ps anybody have a good used Right rear wheel well off a parts car or can recomend a patch panel from something else that would work. Another quick repair gone bad
    \"I\'m getting nowhere as fast as I can\"
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    President Member 4961Studebaker's Avatar
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    If your refering to this area in the box, then yes fender removal would help in repairing the areas. note patch panels made.

    Now if your just going to fix the wheel well hole that develops where the rear seat/wheel well, and arm rest panel meet the floor.....you wouldn't need to remove the fender.

    But chances are.......that if you have rust/hole in SAID area then the quote "window pockets" will need some attention. Penetrating oil on those fender bolts.

    61 Lark

  3. #3
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    My arm rest panel is fine, I guess that I'll see what the rear patch panel looks like to see if the fender needs to come because the patch goes under the arm rest panel. I was hoping not to take the fender off until next year or after I get the floor done. You know, "Fix a little, drive a little" not "aw hell, I might as well gut the thing" My right rear inner fender has a hole that starts up at the seat belt mount and may go down to the floor panel. I'll see what I got to work with when I get it cleaned up

    Oh well, if life was easy

    Jeff T.
    \"I\'m getting nowhere as fast as I can\"
    The Replacements.

  4. #4
    Silver Hawk Member Milaca's Avatar
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    Kevin's problem area looks all too familiar....


    Looks like you're doing a really good job Kevin, I need to do the same thing to this 1964 Daytona.

    In the middle of MinneSTUDEa.

  5. #5
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    That panel between the inner & outer fender is a very common rust out. From the limited experience I have had it appears to be more on 4 doors than 2 doors, although the panel itself seems to be the same on both. Perhaps Classic Enterprises can come up with a repo in galvanized steel for a more permenent repair?
    59 Lark wagon 6 cyl, 3 speed o/d (for now)
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  6. #6
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    Thanks for the pictures of the hardtop...they confirm my worst fear that I will need to pull my right fender to properly fix the floor and perhap a few other things. Now if I could find an inner wheel well with a similar arc from a mustang or a some gm that I could patch into my work in progress. I may check with the local TSC (farm store) they offer trailer fenders, if the steel is not too thick
    \"I\'m getting nowhere as fast as I can\"
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  7. #7
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    Jeff,

    I am getting ready to send a 60 Lark 2 door and a 1963 Lark 2 door to the crusher. Floors are rusty on both. Are you looking for the "wheel well" itself?
    If so what side? And what year and model car?
    George King
    Grants Pass, Oregon
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  8. #8
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    George,

    Working on a 62 hardtop, pm sent
    \"I\'m getting nowhere as fast as I can\"
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  9. #9
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    Posted by JeffT
    I may check with the local TSC (farm store) they offer trailer fenders, if the steel is not too thick
    Jeff
    The thickness is only a problem if you are worried about the OEM look. I'd bet the thickest you would find is 16 ga or less. It is a pleasure to MIG thinner metal to it as it acts as a heat sink and you can run .023 wire into it all day. Just run the wire from the new metal into the old and you will do great.

    Bob
    , ,

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