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One Wire Alternator Conversion Schematic

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  • #16
    When I converted my 60 Lark to an alternator I did not install a fuse or fusible link in the 6 ga. wire from the starter solenoid to the alternator, but I did install an in-line fuse in the positive wire going into the wiring harness, to prevent any voltage back feed from the engine bay, if a problem occurs. My original generator shorted internally, I had just pulled into the garage and turned the car 0ff, I usually open the hood and disconnect the battery and then just leave the hood open until the next time I want to drive it. If this had not been my normal practice - my Lark, my wifes car, and my house would have burnt. Just as I opened the hood the generator and the feild wires from the generator flashed into a bright glow luckily my tool chest is directly in front of where the Lark sits, I grabbed a cable cutter and cut the positive battery wire, I then looked up and saw that the inside of the passenger compartment was filled with smoke, the short had back fed into the inside wiring harnes via the ammeter wire, for some reason [?] I had a gallon of distilled water in the garage I grabbed it and was able to distinguish the burning wires under the dash as well as the engine bay, before any major damage was done. When I replaced the wiring harness I added fuses that probably were not necessary but I do feel secure in the fact that the fuses will open before something like tat can reoccur I also decided that there would be no ammeter reinstalled in my car, I converted it to a volt meter (with fuse). Prior to this, I had no idea how FAST a car could go up in flames, Like I said if I had just turned the car Off and gone inside, my house would have been burning in a matter of a few minutes. I strongly recommend that you take the time to pop the hood and disconnect the battery, also add some fuses.

    Studebaker Fever
    60 Lark
    51 Champion
    Phil

    Studebaker Fever
    60 Lark
    56 Power Hawk
    Phil Hendrickson
    Arnold, Missouri

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    • #17
      Gee... does'nt this sound familliar. That hint about the fusable links is interesting... I have a high output GM alternator on my wagon. It's a three wire setup. Question: Am I looking at a possible fire as well???

      Lotsa Larks!
      K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
      Ron Smith
      Home of the famous Mr. Ed!
      K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
      Ron Smith
      Where the heck is Fawn Lodge, CA?

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      • #18
        Ron, If the alternator would short internally, it could potentially back feed into positive wire that goes to your ammeter, if not protected by a fuse.

        Studebaker Fever
        60 Lark
        51 Champion
        Phil

        Studebaker Fever
        60 Lark
        56 Power Hawk
        Phil Hendrickson
        Arnold, Missouri

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        • #19
          Ron, remember the output post of that alternator goes direct to the battery + post, if the alternator suffers an internal short to ground (The metal frame?) as in a failed stator winding... the wire will go up in a bright glow instantly! I mean instantly, you have an infinite source of power in that battery, of course it is laced along with other cable wires in the harness and everything else goes up at the same time from core melt down. A fusible link is the safe way to protect the whole vehicle or if you don't mind the inconvenience of a battery switch every time you leave the car (Battery switch doesn't help the day it goes up when you are driving along). Plan a fix rght away. Stude8

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          • #20
            Ron,
            That is what I like about the MAD Electrical kit. It includes the fusible link which prevents the" Morning Sunrise under the hood syndrome".

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            • #21
              Go with the M.A.D. kit..I ordered one, and like it allot..I spoke with the owner of the company before I bought it, I wanted to run my project by him...This guy had all the answers and then some!! He is a true guru of the automotive electrical system...give him a call, or look at the web site..This guy's know how and products are very solid.

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              • #22
                Stude8, that wire only goes to the battery directly on cars without an ammeter. In cars with an ammeter, the wire goes straight to the ammeter where the dash picks up its power, then back to the battery. Just to help people plan where to put the fusible links...

                Y'know, I actually saw a wiring harness nearly go poof in front of me once. I put a fusible link on THAT car. Now my car is nowhere near stock, and yet there's no fusible link. Do as I say not as I do? Guess I have another job to do...

                nate

                --
                55 Commander Starlight
                62 Daytona hardtop
                --
                55 Commander Starlight
                http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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                • #23
                  What is the blow amperage of the fuse link? Is this a Napa item?

                  Start and Stage Your Studebakers
                  Start and Stage Your Studebakers

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                  • #24
                    The fusible link wire is 12 gauage and 5 1/4" long. Its attached to the batt terminal with a ring connector and then butt connected to the 10 gauge charging wire. All connectors are crimped and soldered and the splice covered with shrink tube.


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                    • #25
                      I just bought a 62 Hawk with a 1 wire alt installed on a sb350. No fusible link. Can the MAD kit apply to this setup without buying a new alternator??

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                      • #26
                        Thought I would chime in on this topic, seeing as I have retrofitted both one, and three wire Delco units.
                        The MAD Company has a very informative web site, which I have found helpful. I am fortunate to have an electronics warehouse around the corner to get my bits and pieces from, so I have not bought from MAD.
                        Anyway, I installed a one wire on the 66 Wagonaire, in place of the prestolight unit. It works, although you have to rev it up a bit to start the charging. Like I say, it works, and it was an easy install.
                        I installed a three wire on a Transtar, in place of the generator. I soldered the armature wire to the ground wire, and then tied them to the harness at the solenoid. I used the field wire for the sensing wire, jumping to where the regulator was, and than into the harness. Had to run a new wire for the idiot light. I use to help a buddy who wired hot rods; he always used the 3 wire, most often with a diode in place of the idiot light, and with a volt meter. I really like the idea of protection via fusible link or other wise, something to add to the "safety" to do list.
                        Please, do not go crazy on the amperage. The smallest Delco unit is about all the amperage I would push through the stock 12 volt wiring gauge.
                        Here is another helpful site; it is OT a bit, being about lighting.
                        North America's Premier Automotive Lighting Consultancy and Supply



                        Ross.
                        57 Provincial
                        58 Transtar
                        66 Wagonaire
                        sigpic
                        Ross.
                        Riverside, Ca.
                        1957 Provincial X2
                        1958 Transtar

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                        • #27
                          Can anyone suggest a book that does a good job of explaining auto electrics to the uninitiated?
                          Don Wilson, Centralia, WA

                          40 Champion 4 door*
                          50 Champion 2 door*
                          53 Commander K Auto*
                          53 Commander K overdrive*
                          55 President Speedster
                          62 GT 4Speed*
                          63 Avanti R1*
                          64 Champ 1/2 ton

                          * Formerly owned

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                          • #28
                            Some Linkies.





                            Quality Parts for Muscle Car, Hot Rod, Racing & more. Trusted by enthusiasts since 1952 for fast & reliable shipping on affordable parts with expert support.


                            Quality Parts for Muscle Car, Hot Rod, Racing & more. Trusted by enthusiasts since 1952 for fast & reliable shipping on affordable parts with expert support.



                            P.D.

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