Exhaust: heat riser valve

[wolfie]

Hi, I just got the new heat riser valve for the T-cab and have some questions before I install it. It does not seem to open as far as I expected it to before the pin hits the weight and if I force it any further it sticks open. The butterfly is at about a 60-70 degree angle to the flat part at that point. Should I make adjustments with the dremel tool or is this as far as it should open? Thanks, Steve

STOLEN Studebaker!Ventura County ad says contact
Barry @ 805-218-3658

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/1544229962.html

[wolfie]

This is as far as it will open currently.


STOLEN Studebaker!Ventura County ad says contact
Barry @ 805-218-3658

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/1544229962.html

[studegary]

That does not look like a Studebaker part. Is this a part made up to do the job?

Gary L.
Wappinger, NY

SDC member since 1968
Studebaker enthusiast much longer

[wolfie]

It came from SI. Delivered in the mail this afternoon. Thanks, Steve

STOLEN Studebaker!Ventura County ad says contact
Barry @ 805-218-3658

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/1544229962.html

[jackb]

....Wolfie: you need to file down the inner circumference of the valve body so the flapper moves through it's entire range without impediment. Only then will the valve function appropriately.....then, make sure you install correctly.....

[wolfie]

Thanks jackb. I filed the roughness out of the weight that was causing it to stick and it opens and closes much easier and farther now but still not a full 90 degrees. Probably 80-85. The pin that was dragging earlier and stopping everything short now clears and goes all the way through the range the original opening would have allowed. Do I need to keep cutting the bottom of the channel to allow the full 90 degrees? Thanks again, Steve

STOLEN Studebaker!Ventura County ad says contact
Barry @ 805-218-3658

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[sals54]

My two cents worth.... grind out the center of that valve and weld the hole. It does nothing more than block the exhaust flow anyway. If you're not using the car in cold weather on a regular basis, its not doing you any favors.

sals54

[StudeRich]

Be sure you check the fit in the exhaust manifold, most of us have had to grind a little off of the butterfly and even sometimes round out the egg shaped hole in the manifold and or pipe flange to get those replacement Cadillac valves to fully open.

The counterweight goes outboard and up, to fall FORWARD when heated!
You have it upside down.

The original Studebaker valves had a hat shaped weight and have been NLA for a quite a while, when properly installed these work OK.

Then you can set the choke, so when it's below 50 you can get some choke and fast idle and actually drive the car or warm the engine without it backfiring and dying on you, until it's warm and the heat riser opens.

StudeRich

[IMJ]

If you do decide not to use the heat riser valve, Dave Thibeault offers a spacer that takes the place of the valve. That extra 1/2" is usually needed so the pipe fits correctly under the cross member. I still use the valve on my Cruiser since I occasionally drive it in the winter. I don't use one in my Lark since it is rarely out in the cold. Even though the one on my Cruiser moves freely and closes when cold I noticed that the weight does not overcome the thermostatic spring when at normal operating temp. I saw that SI sells just the therm. spring by itself. My spring has no problem contracting when cold it just doesn't expand enough when hot. I thought it would be the other way around if the spring is suffering fatigue. If I put a little heat on it from a propane torch the weight drops to the full open position. I have not decided if I want to abandon the valve or spring for a new spring. The thermostatic spring in the choke seems to be a little weak to contract but it expands fine when hot. I am puzzled why the 2 metal springs would act differently.

regards,

Jay

[Bo Markham]

Wolfie,

Like countless others, you have fallen victim to another half assed re-pooped part. All things in stride, break out the grinder and files. If your going to use the steel gaskets, or even the slightly thicker composite (Ford) style gaskets, you might want to take a flat edge and make sure both surfaces are flat/square. If not, the steel gasket will not seal, and the composite will last about 6 months before it burns a hole through itself and leaks. As mentioned above, the smart thing to do, unless you intend on driving in severe cold weather, is to replace it with a ready made spacer that Jon Meyers, or T-Bow makes to replace it for correct fit of the exhaust system. I've had to replace about a dozen of these re-poops on customers vehicles over the last 8 years, as they have a tendency to stick, usually closed.

[wolfie]

Thanks guys, I will grind it as necessary to make it work. I may remove it after the fact but I paid to have it and the manifold studs replaced when the guy did the exhaust. He quoted it replacing everything from the manifolds back then told me he couldnt make the Y pipes (doesnt really look like a Y but I dont know what else to call it) when I went to pick it up. At this point he has most of the money so its a matter of principle that he will change it out and finish the install (even though I have to source the pipe elsewhere). Thanks again, Steve

STOLEN Studebaker!Ventura County ad says contact
Barry @ 805-218-3658

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/1544229962.html

[DKing]

My first thought was, new part, alter, WTF. This should not be accepted. I know how hard it is to make perfect parts, as I am doing that for another high $$ and low volume car. It would seem the person that understands the part, and take the time, money, & effort to make a new one, could at least do it correctly. Are my expectations to high?

When I buy something for old cars, I am reasonable, as I know how hard it is to create those precious parts. Since my recent exposure has been on another brand, and probably the most expensive one at that, I could be a little jaded but still, it come down to the simple expectation that what you buy works without any additional effort in the installation process. That is my personal goal for anything I make.

Bad night and I am ranting a little, sorry, but I can not except something that was not forewarned as an alteration.

David


[img=left]http://lh3.ggpht.com/_SuHaRG4eFas/S92ZP9-uwxI/AAAAAAAAD-g/ePQOiP8zrpA/s400/DSCN1546.JPG[/img=left]
David King

1964 Studebaker Commander
1958 Cadillac Eldorado Brougham (615)
1966 Pontiac GTO convertible

SDC Member#: A011937K

[studegary]

quote:Originally posted by StudeRich

The original Studebaker valves had a hat shaped weight and have been NLA for a quite a while, when properly installed these work OK.


StudeRich

I sold my last NOS units for $20 each. When a guy bought my last one, his friend asked why he was buying it as he didn't need one. The guy said that he was buying it for the future because you can't find the NOS Studebaker units.

I think that the vendors should identify what they are selling as non-Studebaker parts that are available to replace the Studebaker parts and that all modifications should be done before shipment.

Gary L.
Wappinger, NY

SDC member since 1968
Studebaker enthusiast much longer

[IMJ]

Not to hijack this thread, but it caused me to check the heat riser more closely on my Cruiser. As I said earlier my valve moves freely. When the engine is cold the weight is up with the butterfly closed. After the car is at normal operating temp. the weight is only partially down but not the whole way(butterfly open part way). Both these observations were with the engine off. I had a NOS heat riser valve in a box that I removed the thermostatic spring from and installed on my car. The weight moves about the same as before. If I add a little heat from a propane torch the weight drops the whole way opening the butterfly completely, same is true for the spring I removed. Even if I check it with the engine at idle the exhaust does not open the butterfly farther. Is it possible that since I am using the thicker composite exhaust flange gaskets instead of the all metal ones that not enough heat is being transfered to the spring? My thought is that with this partial restriction on the right side the heat tunnel in the intake manifold is getting hotter than it should. Any thoughts are appreciated.

regards,

Jay

[barnlark]

Interesting. I was on a search for this very part at SB this weekend. I saw a box of the new reproductions that were being delivered to SI. I also found a couple NOS versions there as well. The repops have a larger area for the heat to escape and seem to be made okay. They were fully functional, not like that one in the above picture.

I'm not sure where the one was machined that you now have, wolfie, but I know from where the ones are built that are now there at SI.

I opted for the NOS heat riser. I was using my old one merely as a spacer, since it's normally a warm weather driver, but I wanted to find one and see how it holds up... and got lucky.

After today in South Bend, never say never for a wind chill in the thirties in May. [:0]