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Thread: My Street Version Port Injection for the '55

  1. #81
    President Member PlainBrownR2's Avatar
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    Update:

    It's here!!
    About a couple days ago I placed an online order to DIYAutoTune for a MS1 2.2 PCB, which is essentially the lowest complete kit without going into the electronic kits. I could order the electronic kit because I like working with components, but from my track record from the Graymark kits in the past, including one so-so working robot kit, I don't do well with complicated schematics or heat sensitive parts. So I took the lazy way out, and I want it working when I get everything together . Anyway, here is the brainbox in all of its basic glory:


    This is the front, it has a serial access port with three indicator lamps for when it's operating(kinda like the old external modems). The brainbox comes in either brushed aluminum or black, and I should probably get the Hot Wheelsesque Megasquirt decal for the window, but that's still aways off yet.


    This is the rear, which contains a DB-37 port, and the MAP sensor(that vacuum port next to it), which is larger than the average DB-25 parallel printer port. I thought I saw this used in a SCSI application, but I think that was DB-50.


    The name with the extra MSNS firmware loaded with the 12*12 VE tables. The tables should provide a little finer tuning once I get this working. I also had them do the MSNS in the event I go to distributorless and I didn't want to do anything extra to the brainbox.


    This is the DB-37 connector, which will be used to assemble the wiring harness to the relays and the rest of the car. These come with the kit, so that makes things a little easier .


    The last photo, I love the guys here so far, and I couldn't resist showing it, but I can't help thinking if this started to appear after Wily Coyote and that Acme Rocket went over that mountainside after the 10th time. I also know about the hallowed CYA statements as this is not a stock application(or a normal application for that matter), so this is necessary as its aftermarket.

    On to fuses and relays, a cheap laptop, and all of that fun stuff......

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  2. #82
    President Member PlainBrownR2's Avatar
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    We have an interesting situation on the MS1 brainbox, and it involves the "Assembly Instructions". The brainbox does not come with instructions, rather they are found here:

    http://www.megamanual.com/mtabcon.htm

    I apologize if I sound hostile but this is going to be something to make posting this stuff a little more enjoyable. I went and copied and pasted each section into a Word document, within it's own file labelled Megamanual. I also did the same for the Megatune software. Each section is around 50 pages long, or longer, so this instruction manual reads like a Far East Phonebook. It would be wiser to show a summary of the installation, as each installation seems to be left to the individual to assemble. If I get into the the installation details while working through the Megamanual, this would make for one verrrry large and verrrry complicated post, so I'll show some of the broader points in putting this into the car. Mostly I will post the end results and major installations and the stuff that gets installed, because that's mainly what we're interested in, I think. However, if anybody wants to know something specific, I won't be hesitant to try and respond .....

    I will say if someone gets one, to open a Word document for each section, copy and paste each section in, that tailors to their particular brainbox, as well as the troubleshooting and schematic drawings of the wiring and brainbox. They should put each section into a folder labelled "Megamanual", for easy reference. They should then either find a large Canon type copier that can spit out whole texts, copy the manual to a couple of CD's, or be prepared to sacrifice an ink jet cartridge if they want to print out the whole manual. An individual should also copy the instructions and Megatune software to a folder as well that's labelled "Megatune", and the Assembler codes and instructions into a folder labelled "Megasquirt Assembler" Code. All three folders should go into a larger folder labelled "Megasquirt (I or II and the PCB version)". The Megatune and Megasquirt Assembler Code should also go on CD's, as one is the software for running the brainbox and the other is the technical programming code for the brain box. Basically, follow the rules like the Shop CD's .

    As for me, I will probably copy my manual, software, and assembler code to the CD's, and print out the wiring diagrams so I can look at this stuff when it goes in the car. When I need to look something up I can bring it up on the PC or the laptop, easy enough. If I really need something I can print that specific section in the Word document. Oh about the software, it may need to be moved to a cheap and easy laptop because that's where the tuning takes place, through a serial cable into the port on the front, that's plugged into a PC, usually a laptop of sorts.

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  3. #83
    President Member PlainBrownR2's Avatar
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    Update:

    Relay Box(or not?)

    There's two ways to wire the Megasquirt box in. One involves separately wiring each relay, fuse, and what have you into the wiring harness. This is the traditional method to wiring the relays:

    http://www.bgsoflex.com/sensorwire.pdf

    There's also a kit to assemble the relay board, but that doesn't use the cable, rather a simple, small, fat cable that runs between the brainbox and the relay box. It simplifies things since it uses terminals much like the OD solenoid, so I'm going to use a go-between and construct a version of the relay box. The box will use the traditional glass fuses to protect the injector banks, fuel pump, and main power. They will also use traditional glass fuses in the circuits to protect the ECU and +5 volt circuits. On the actual relay board these are protected by RayChem Polyfuses, that heat up and split open, and cool and close, kinda like a resettable fuse. I'd like to try the glass fuses as these are much more attainable in a gas station than losing a RayChem fuse.
    The relay board also consists of three 12V 40A relays, one for the FI solenoid, one for the fuel pump, and one for the main power. So I went to Radio Shack(yeah ya heard me [)]) and I picked up:

    3 12V 40A Relays
    8 Glass Fuse Holders
    8 Glass Fuses and some extra fuses

    I also discovered that our Radio Shack has no DB37 connectors, so I'll split the harness on the relay box and go with:

    1 DB25 male connector
    1 DB15 male connector
    (25 pins + 15 pins= 40 pins, a few extra pins than I'll need but that's alright [)])

    I can cannibalize a DB 25 female connector from our old computer stash and I needed to get a DB15 female connector with my DB15 male connector.

    Edit:
    Just realized I posted the 3.0 version of the external wiring diagram, not the 2.2 wiring diagram, which applies more to my controller, we can't have none of that.... [)]





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  4. #84
    President Member PlainBrownR2's Avatar
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    A little update :

    Relay Box







    There's a method this spaghetti bowl, all I can say is I never liked soldiering pin assignments [)]. This is gonna be the distribution board which will sit in a metal case or box I'll assemble. The two ports will receive the cable from the brain box, the terminals will go to the rest of the engine. If a fuse pops, they are all in one location and readily able to be replaced at any gas station . Oh and the board should be prototype board(or gingerbread), but I didn't have any so I borrowed some heavy plastic from my model railroading stockpile.

    Hmm, I wonder if I should plaster a larger Lazy S on the brainbox, and a small Lazy S on the relay box just for giggles. This would be the ill sold engine upgrade(or maybe a prototype engine system) to the 289 [)].....

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  5. #85
    President Member PlainBrownR2's Avatar
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    Update:

    Completion of Relay Control Box

    Level of Engineering Obnoxiousness Exceeded [)]

    I completed the relay box with fuse panel. It will be mounted somewhere near the brainbox on a level flat surface. I probably went overkill on the fuse panel, of which it really should just be a circuit board somewhere mounted on the firewall, but I have a wild imagination and an affinity toward sci fi spaceships and the technology where this stuff flips open [}]. I hacked down a piano hinge and used a briefcase latch to secure both halves. As you can see it opens like a clamshell, and it is open in the back. The wiring was such that it was just easier to leave the rear open. It should provide ventilation if anything. The cables get plugged in through the front, and if a fuse blows, I just have to flip it open and pop the glass fuse out.











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  6. #86
    President Member PlainBrownR2's Avatar
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    Update

    Relay Cable

    I just completed the relay cable. There's two ways to go about using the brainbox. One involves taking the DB37 connector and making a wiring harness to run all over the engine. The other involves buying or making a cable to go from the brainbox to a relay box.

    I went with the latter. I had the supplied connector that came with the brainbox, but Radio Shack didn't stock any of these DB37 connectors. So, I went to my old computer stash, "borrowed" a DB25 connector, as well as used a DB15 connector from Radio Shack, and assembled a cable. The one end that connects to the brainbox matters because it has a fixed male and female connector. The other end doesn't matter, but I had to remember the pinouts, and where the wires in the cable ran to. I didn't want a temp sensor running to a pin designated to the TPS sensor on the brain box, or vice versa. I made the cable about four feet long, so I have plenty when it's time to go in the car. Both of these connectors are female as the connectors on the relay box are male. The wires run from the pinout on the back of the box, to corresponding pinouts on the relay box, which in turn distribute power to relays, fuses, and the sensors in the engine compartment. For instance Pin 37 on the back of the brainbox, has a soldiered wire to the female Pin 37 on the DB37 connector, which in turn, runs to Pin 37(or the 12th pin on the DB15 connector, the smaller connector), which then runs a wire to a return wire for the fuel pump relay. When it came to soldiering wires to pins, this was never an easy task now or before, because each pin must have a wire soldiered to it, and I must be careful not to glob too much soldier on the pin or we get a soldier bridge . After the cable was completed I tested each circuit with the Diode tester on my Fluke which gives a bleep when a circuit is completed. This is done by putting both connectors in a vise, and probing the corresponding pins to make sure there is a circuit. Pin 1 to Pin 1, Pin 2 to Pin 2, and so forth. Thus far, each path gave an individual beep and I didn't get any beeps when I probed the other connectors on the connector. IE, each pin has an individual circuit and none of the pins are shorting to the other wires in the cable.

    Once this was done I Ty-Wrapped the cables, put plastic hoods on the connector ends, wrapped the cable in black electrical tape, and the rest is history. I also learned to use 18 or 20 gauge, because the 14 gauge I wanted to use kept breaking off the soldier joints on the pins . For something this small, it's just too thick and immovable where I could really use it in this application.







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  7. #87
    President Member PlainBrownR2's Avatar
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    Update:

    Fuel line



    Left to Right: Union Couplings for joining the large lines, 3/8 Fuel line crossover on the manifold for the fuel rails, 3/8 Fuel cell to Fuel pump line, 3/8 Return line(2), 5/16 Supply Line(2).

    The Commander has had it's original brake and fuel lines in the car since we picked it up as a parts car. I know that without looking, these will need to be replaced, as the fuel line under there is still stock and for the most part, gone. I got a wild hair tonight and went to Farm and Fleet and got the fuel line for the Commander. At the moment I just did a rough measurement from the rear tire to the front tire and made a guess on the amount I needed on both sides. I knew the fittings I needed because I made a sketch of the fuel line in my notebook, and I knew what line I needed by the details I made in the notebook between the fittings (fuel cell to fuel pump, fuel pump to fuel filter, etc). The supply side will be 5/16 since the pump to regulator is 1/4 or 5/16. The Return will be 3/8 since the fuel cell return port is 3/8 and it makes thing so much simpler to keep the line standard size all the way back from the regulator fitting. There's about 10 feet of line on either side, plus some additional line length from the other pieces. I'm fairly sure I will have extra(which is always a good thing in case a person messes up a fitting), and that the line will need to be cut, flared and bent, of which I have the tools and talent to do already. I've had to do similar projects on the Lark, so this shouldn't be difficult, except for the entertaining part about locating the proper step up and step down fittings in the hardware store drawers.
    I also want as little rubber in the line as possible. I'd like to get as much of the hard stuff under the car to save on any future problems with the petrol that runs through it.

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  8. #88
    President Member PlainBrownR2's Avatar
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    Update:

    Fuel Cell


    I have begun the installation of the fuel cell. The fuel cell will face to the rear and the sump will be in the rear, so it will maximize having fuel going to the pump nearly 100 percent all the time both at idle and when the car is moving. The fuel cell will be lowered halfway in where the fuel cell will half in the trunk and half in the bottom of the vehicle just above the trunk floor, that way I will still retain use of spare tire and its area.





    The gas tank will be kept for a spare gas tank. A MAJOR word of advice. Do not toss these tanks. The 1955 C/K gas tanks are getting hard to find, both in 1994 and in the present day. It is much better to retain these rather than throwing these out forever and ever .





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  9. #89
    President Member PlainBrownR2's Avatar
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    Well, it's partially in before the snow began to fall, the contact tip in the welder jammed, at it became unrealistic to continue in wet weather. I guess I'll see this section of the project again sometime at the end of April, or maybe the middle of March....[)]

    There will be about six or so brackets that hang down from the trunk in a basket sort of arrangement, followed by a couple of pieces that will come from the frame to strengthen the basket and the trunk. There will be a sheetmetal shell around the outer part of the cell to protect it.

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  10. #90
    President Member PlainBrownR2's Avatar
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    Update:

    Did a little more work on frame for the fuel cell to drop into. I painted the frame a nice Rustoleum black. Maybe tomorrow I'll put in some aluminum panels around the inside of that frame to protect the fuel cell from the underside and then we can work on aluminum straps to attach it. The frame is affixed to the bottom of the trunk by making some hooks and welding them into the floor and the sides of the bottom of the frame, so it's like a basket.





    About the last picture, the front of the car is sitting on a couple of used rims, which act like permanent jackstands so I can better get under it without the necessity of actual jackstands, which is why it looks cocky-eyed.

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  11. #91
    President Member PlainBrownR2's Avatar
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    Update:

    Fuel Cell

    It is in!!



    I made some aluminum straps and slung them under and over the fuel cell. After I did that I bolted them to some studs I welded to the reinforcing pieces I put across the trunk. After I did that I made some aluminum filler pieces and stuck them around the fuel cell to close up some of the holes around the trunk. After that I claimed victory for the day. It was also told that this gas tank would receive somewhere around 150 lbs of fuel when filled. I addressed that with welding some angle iron to the old brackets, and the reinforcing strips in the trunk, as well as the 12 points that the hanging brackets are welded to at the edges of the hole in the trunk that hang down underneath. Anyway, to test it I put my 170 lb frame on the top of the fuel cell and bounced a little. It doesn't budge an inch, and the fuel cell is now very solidly integrated to the trunk floor .

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  12. #92
    President Member PlainBrownR2's Avatar
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    Update:

    Well today we have a fuel filter and the fuel pump in. I am using plain old brass fittings at the tank, but, the fuel tank itself has AN fittings. There is a major difference between these two sets of fittings. The AN fittings are machined to a much more precise tolerance than the NPT fittings. Therefore there are some things to remember about mixing and matching these fittings:

    The AN fittings have a flare on the end. When you tighten up the fittings and they get tight, stop tightening them. The excess torque can strip or damage these fittings if you're not careful.
    If you're gonna use a combination of the fittings, the brass fittings will fit looser over the AN fittings. It is recommended the use of teflon tape be used on AN fittings to take up the "slop", and provide a better seal. For those of you wondering about the teflon tape, my Lark has this on pressure regulator fittings and I have had little trouble with it.
    When screwing the brass and AN fittings together, be careful now to cross thread either of them, or damage can result.

    As a result, that's how the brass fitting is affixed to the fuel cell. I fashioned a bracket for the fuel pump, and made a strap to affix the pump, and ran some rubber line out from the barb to a fuel filter, and then from the filter into the pump. The pump is also covered with pipe insulation, which should function like the rubber insulation I have on the fuel pump on the Lark.



    Hmmm, I'm getting some 40 and 50 degree days here, I may have to make some decisions on when to start putting that engine together under the tarp pretty soon before my alternative chores run out [}].


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  13. #93
    President Member PlainBrownR2's Avatar
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    Well today begins the fun part with this car. The 289 is getting dressed up with the speed parts, before being bolted to the T-86 from the other engine, and returning to it's new home under the hood of the '55. Today we split the automatic components (bellhousing, torque converter, starter, etc) from the engine. I'll tell ya it's a far cry from the model train builds because this is slow, heavy, tiring work, but should be worth it at the end. I'll have to get back in there and pop the oil pan off for the one from the 259, and remove the automatic bolts on the crankshaft for the manual bolts.






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  14. #94
    President Member PlainBrownR2's Avatar
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    Update:

    Some goings on with the engine:

    Well for the past couple of days I have been changing out heads and headgaskets. If you will recall earlier last year thereabouts, I had ported, polished and modfied the heads a little. Well today they went back on the engine. It also gave me time to see what kind of engine exists underneath the heads.


    I found these are a standard sized dish piston. There isn't any numbers on the pistons which tells me the engine was never bored out.




    It has a couple of interesting items here. The PCV circuit exits from the valley cover(I'm used the the JT setup where it comes from a tube ), and it has spark plug wire clips on the valve covers, and extra clips that bolt to the rear of the intake manifold, something my Lark doesn't have. The automatic bellhousing also had the protection covers over the inspection holes, which are also missing on my car.


    [IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/P1010531-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
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  15. #95
    President Member PlainBrownR2's Avatar
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    Update:

    How do you change an oilpan and it's associated gasket? [)]

    Why flip the engine upside down on the engine stand, it's just that easy(easier). [)]

    In the past couple of days I changed the heads for my modded heads, changed the oilpan for my modded oilpan, and I had to replace the gasket as well. Needless to say the Felpro gasket still gave me a battle, as the ends where it clipped went in, but I still had to trim off some of the material at the front, some of the thicker material off of the rear. I also had to press and reposition the oilpan a number times as the tolerances between this pan and the original pan were just enough to keep the pan from dropping on the engine. I finally managed to get the gasket to seat, and get the pan to seat. After this the water pump was put on and the engine was uprighted. Oh, and the bolts in the crankshaft were switched over to the manual bolts, so I can use the T86 from the 259. I think I'll need to drop in the Delco distributor next, not before I do a couple things so it complies with the FI necesseties.





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  16. #96
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    I had one of those style pans and it doesn't fit because it is made for the swivel free floating style oil pump pickup tube. Did you change the oil pump suction section? If you pressed fitted it down you may have blocked off the oil suction pickup section on the pump. That pan is longer but not as deep as the later pans.

    Start and Stage Your Studebakers

  17. #97
    President Member PlainBrownR2's Avatar
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    That is food for thought. The pickup is right where the drain plug is on the oilpan there, I'll have to see tomorrow what kinda clearance I have between the pickup and the base of the pan. Hopefully it's not contacting the bottom of the pan. If it's 1/4 inch or so from the bottom that should be super because then it's still picking up oil long after it was time to add it. One of the biggest problems I had with the pan wasn't so much the pump, but the thickness at the front and rear edges of the pan wouldn't allow the pan to seat. After I trimmed the gasket at the timing cover and the rear main bearing, the pan was able to slide down the last 1/4 inch or so. There is a positive in that the pickup on the oil pump is not closed at the bottom, instead it is an open mesh device.

    Edit:
    When I said tomorrow in this case that meant this very minute so I don't lose any sleep over it. I went out and undid the large drain plug underneath. I then took a screwdriver and stuck it in there and felt around. I can feel the bottom of the pump quite easily, and I can move the screwdriver very easily too. I then took the screwdriver and stuck it in there until I hit something solid, which was the pump, and took my fingers and roughly measured it from the drain plug up to the pump. We have roughly an inch, inch and a quarter of clearance on the pump and pan, so I believe we're golden. Consequently though, when I put oil and a filter in it, I'll pull out the distributor and spin the pump up so that I can verify that the pump is pumping before attempting to start the car.
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  18. #98
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    Just to be safe, you might pull the pan again, take a piece of clay(wrapped in plastic wrap) and put it over the pickup. Put the pan back on, than take it off, and measure the crush on the clay.

  19. #99
    President Member PlainBrownR2's Avatar
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    I did one better, I had to pop the distributor off anyway because I want to use a Delco distributor instead. I also had to flush out the old oil from the engine as well. I plugged my pressure pipe outlet(well removed my two branched taps for the pressure pipe and the two turbo pipes). I then filled the pan with 3 quarts or so of fresh oil, and threw a little STP oil treatment in there too. I took one long handled screwdriver, some duct tape and a drill. I stuck the flat end into the pump and gave it a good spin. It oozed out the head passages, the timing gear area, and everywhere in between. I also got a good spurt when I removed the plug, so it appears all is green and pressurized. I appeared to be right about the pickup on the pan, as it appears to have more than enough clearance . Once finished I drained old oil out.

    [IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/P1010531-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
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  20. #100
    President Member PlainBrownR2's Avatar
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    Update:

    Distributor



    After a brief stint of recovering a stainless steel(or was that aluminum?) bolt that I dropped into the intake manifold yesterday, realizing the magnetic snake wasn't going to pick it up, and flipping the engine over to "shake it out", I put the distributor in. The distributor is the one I pulled out of the 259, which was the older non window Delco unit. This took some finagling because I had to rotate the crank around to top dead center on the intake stroke, drop the distributor into the notched tang in the oil pump, and then move the crank around until the distributor keyed with the cam and dropped in. The vacuum module is oriented toward the passenger side of the car, the distributor dropped into the notched tang, but it still stood about 1/4 inch from where it needs to rest. I then moved the crank around until the distributor eased down onto the cam gear and seated on the block. The rotor should now be oriented toward the number 1 lobe, pin, or whatever they call that.
    Since I'm using Megasquirt 1, which is the early version, apparently I don't need to tack or lock out the advance since the circuit is not present in the fuel controller. That should be good because I don't feel like doing surgery on this type of distributor, lol. The fuel controller will receive a signal from the points to fire the injector as well as receive a tach signal. For those that are wondering, the Megasquirt system will take a points, Pertonix, Magneto, Optical, or Distributorless ignition system(EDIS). The distributor is not much more than a fancy switch, and the FI just takes an electrical signal from the distributor to fire the FI, from what I understand with this system. The only thing I need to do though is specify in the software which distributor I am using. However, I did have the DIY Autotune guys add the code in though so in case I go to a distributorless ignition, the brainbox is ready to go.

    Hmm, I think the engine needs a cleaning, degreasing, and painting, and I'm gonna have to do something about that lack of a bellhousing and transmission as well [)]. That T86 is getting lonely sitting in the garage by itself, lol.

    [IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/P1010531-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
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  21. #101
    President Member PlainBrownR2's Avatar
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    Update:

    Mated engine and tranny

    The engine and tranny are whole again. Yesterday the bellhousing was dial indicated, and today the bellhousing, clutch, and clutch housing were installed. After a brief respit, the very weighty tranny was mounted, of which I say I will do that once a decade, yeesh. At the moment there's no photo of the combo so enjoy my exploits from yesterday [)]. I'll probably post those in a couple days...




    The jig is made from Bob Johnstone's website instructions and the dial indicator was part of the inheritance my granddad's machining equipment who was a tool and die maker . I should also mentioned he originally worked for Buick too, who would of guessed the tools would have ended up working on the competition he had no part of, that was produced 60 miles to the east .

    [IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/P1010531-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
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  22. #102
    President Member PlainBrownR2's Avatar
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    Let's see...

    New motor mounts
    New T86 trans mount
    Changed oil in tranny while it's still feasible out of the car
    Repainted and oiled the 6V starter(which turned out to be one that I didn't think to check)
    New clutch
    Mounted Bellhousing, Clutch, Pressure Plate, and Trans(Never again for awhile, lol)



    Still needs a fuel pump block off plate and the upper tube and six quart dipstick for the '55 259 oilpan, but I seem to be getting close to making engine meet it's new bay.
    Oh there's also plug wires, oil change, reinstalling some red valve covers, intake manifold, set the valve lash and all of the stuff that hangs from the front, but I'll get to that later on.

    [IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/P1010531-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
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  23. #103
    President Member PlainBrownR2's Avatar
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    Update:

    The engine IS IN!!



    To start with I went to a Tri-5 swapmeet today and found my fuel pump block off plate. It's a Mr. Gasket plate that comes in two sizes(large or small), triangular, and has only two bolt holes, that blocks the hole in the timing cover with an accompanying gasket where the mechanical pump went. If I couldn't find one it can as easily be made from 3/8 in flat plate and a gasket can be reused or cut out. What I couldn't find at Autozone in the two bolt format was all over the place at the swapmeet. I also got this for about seven bucks and it has a nice chrome finish on it .
    I also hooked up the accelerator linkage as well, but we couldn't stop there. It was time for this engine to it's new home. So I jacked the engine up, ran the truck bed underneath with a tire, and dropped the engine down. Since I oriented the engine in the same direction as the car, I just backed the truck up to a space in front of the car. I repeated the process with the hoist, dropped it on the ground on the tire, pulled the truck away, turned the hoist around to face the car, and shoved the empty car to the engine. At this point it became some fine finagling and jostling, and raising, and lowering, and repeating. The biggest pain was the tranny mount would not clear the crossmember, as well as the rubber mount would not clear the crossmember, until we lifted the back of the tranny up, and then did some more finagling to get it to line the tranny with the u-joints, at which the engine and tranny were lowered into place.





    Later on I'll get some photos of the engine in place. I still need to bolt down the mounts, but the darkness and my joints say this is plenty of work.

    [IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/P1010531-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
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  24. #104
    President Member PlainBrownR2's Avatar
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    Update:
    A real milestone too, one engine was taken out, another was subsequently put in its place....


    It's now bolted in, and the turbo flange(s) work is underway...

    [IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/P1010531-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
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  25. #105
    Silver Hawk Member Milaca's Avatar
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    Dude, you should put some all-terrain tires on that engine hoist.

  26. #106
    President Member PlainBrownR2's Avatar
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    Ideally yeah, as both stand and hoist are made for a smooooth concrete garage floor, but now it's not needed as the grunt work is pretty much finished with the heavy lifting.
    All I can say for now is, Deus Ex Machina(It is done).

    [IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/P1010531-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
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  27. #107
    President Member PlainBrownR2's Avatar
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    Update:

    Passenger side turbo

    Over the past couple of days I have been working on the flange or adaptor for the Mitsubishi TD05 turbo. It went in today, but I'll have to get pictures tomorrow(or start constructing a flashbulb device similar to O Winston Link's to get night shots). The adapter is made of straight pieces. This took some patience as I had to mock up, add a length of pipe, determine the angle and direction I had to go in with the next piece, and repeat. It started as this could be done off the car, but once the piece got somewhat big, and closer to positioning the turbo, I had to bolt it on to determine much more precise positioning of where the flange, and the turbo, were going to end up. The turbo is mounted by the firewall, and hanging down since the flange on the turbo is pointed up, and the outlet pipe is pointed down. The flange resembles a Letter C, with the turbo hanging from the top of the C. I also attached the turbo with grade 8 bolts mig welded as studs to the flange plate, so it will necessitate speedier removal if need be.

    Here's some pictures of how it looked from earlier today. I thought this one piece business made of straight sections was gonna look terrible, but after mounting it, and painting it Rustoleum Black, it doesn't look half bad . Oh, I also reused some old headpipes to make the pipes, so there may be a second life for the old stock pipe after all .

    [/URL]

    [/URL]

    The other turbo may get mounted down by the front on the driver's side due to the steering box over there. This engine has accomodations for a power steering setup, as it has an extra pulley, but the car has manual steering. Ergo, what I'll do is use the extra space on that side to mount the turbo up front. Now yall might asking about why the battery is going to the back, well one of the reasons is I'm not sure how much space the other turbo will take up, so it will open up some additional real estate over there for me to be able to reposition the unit if need be.

    [IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/P1010531-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
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  28. #108
    President Member PlainBrownR2's Avatar
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    Alright, here's the results from yesterday. Today wasn't too conducive for going outside to play in(too cold and windy, ahhh spring).







    [IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/P1010531-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
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  29. #109
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    Here's where I am at , now. Just wanted to update you, not hijack.Fabricating the exhaust for the left unit will require a forward run, and under the PS pulley, due to constraints generated by the steering box, which actually required some minor modification to clear the upturned manifold. The left turbo had to face exhaust-forward. The right turbo can get out with a couple of 90-120 bends, but the oil filter will require a remote mounting. The viper T56 is rebuilt, and mounted, the crossmember support was kind of a nuisance due to the 10 degree cock-up of the tailshaft. I just placed the driveshaft, a 3 inch diameter tube, into the 4.55 Dana. Putting together the fuel injection materials has begun, but the run to the mass meter, in front of the carb hat, will require a pretty good straight run. I am going to add an intercooler, which will help I think, on general prinicples, and the output should make it over the radiator, to give me that required run to avoid turbulence. I am having trouble planning a cold air intake, too many bends and not enough room. May have to go with hot, underhood air after all, something I wanted to avoid.Thanks- m weiss



    ok

  30. #110
    President Member PlainBrownR2's Avatar
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    It's alright, regarding the turbos we share some of the similar problems here . Today I started on the driver's turbo flange. Basically since I'm using stock manifolds and stock positions, I'm going down the manifold about and inch, going over about an inch, and coming up in a U shape so it comes up on the upside of the engine. I'm having a similar difficulty on the driver's side with the steering box as well. It took a couple of tries to tack the pipe, check the clearance, separate, and retack again so it came out between the front of the steering box, and between the exhaust manifold and the fender. The nice thing is the Commander has the manual steering, so there is a little bit of space to fool around with since there's no pump. Hopefully once the other turbo is done, I can start running lines and put in my FI as well.

    Yours isn't looking too bad either, oh what will the judges make of our cars!!

    [IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/P1010531-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
    [IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/P1010550-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
    [IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/Ex%20Studebaker%20Plant%20Locomotive/P1000578-1.jpg[/IMG=right]
    [IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/My%201964%20Studebaker%20Commander%20R2/P1010168.jpg[/IMG=right]


  31. #111
    President Member PlainBrownR2's Avatar
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    Update:

    The Driver's turbo

    Between yesterday and today I worked on the flange on that side. The problem was the last few inches. The Pontiac turbo has a very uniquely angled flange to it. I was also having problems precisely positioning the turbo over the former battery tray. Once that was done it was followed with another little problem. The Pontiac flange was a triangle rather than a square, with a pipe protusion sticking up. So now the rest of the afternoon was then spent turning my square hole into a triangular adapter with a round hole. This was accomplished by taking a piece of flared pipe, sticking it on the protusion on the turbo, and then welding the flat piece of metal to it. After that I drilled the three holes, welded in the two studs, and the flange was finished (I hope). After all was said and done, I had one more turbo hanging from the engine. It doesn't look half bad, although it has a few more segments than it's passenger counterpart.







    Now, on to lines, brackets and other details .....

    [IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/P1010531-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
    [IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/P1010550-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
    [IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/Ex%20Studebaker%20Plant%20Locomotive/P1000578-1.jpg[/IMG=right]
    [IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/My%201964%20Studebaker%20Commander%20R2/P1010168.jpg[/IMG=right]


  32. #112
    President Member PlainBrownR2's Avatar
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    Update

    Port Injection(the main Act)

    Well, the turbos are in, brackets have been welded in and tested, it has a gas tank and a pump, guess that means I'm gonna have to put this device in place and get crackin on that....



    There was nothing to it, it attaches like a regular intake manifold...just with a few extra things on top.

    [IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/P1010531-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
    [IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/P1010550-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
    [IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/Ex%20Studebaker%20Plant%20Locomotive/P1000578-1.jpg[/IMG=right]
    [IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/My%201964%20Studebaker%20Commander%20R2/P1010168.jpg[/IMG=right]


  33. #113
    President Member PlainBrownR2's Avatar
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    Update:

    Port Injection

    The fuel rails are have been installed. I hacked off at least 3-5 inches off the ends and retapped the threads, as the one side was up against the firewall, and the other side was over the distributor cap(I guess I should hold for the, I told you so's, lol). After that was done, I installed 5/16 steel line to the supply side. I also made some hold downs for the frame and body to hold the fuel line in place, which were made from strips of sheet aluminum, and secured with sheet metal screws. I plan to install 3/8 to the return side as the line just returns to the fuel cell, so it saves me a few dollars in brass fittings.

    I'll say if there's ever a time where you wonder about what port injection looks like on a vintage Stude, this might come pretty close.



    I also painted the intake manifold red to signify the experimental project that very briefly got out the doors of the Studebaker Corporation, so it had to look the part of being a whole new part, lol. It also lets me spot my open hood from the sixth story hotel room across the parking lot .

    [IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/P1010531-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
    [IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/P1010550-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
    [IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/Ex%20Studebaker%20Plant%20Locomotive/P1000578-1.jpg[/IMG=right]
    [IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/My%201964%20Studebaker%20Commander%20R2/P1010168.jpg[/IMG=right]


  34. #114
    President Member PlainBrownR2's Avatar
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    Update:

    Imminent deep sixing of the fuel rails(I ain't joking on this day either)

    I completed the fuel circuit, so soon after I began testing the system by running gas through the lines and the tank, so I put gas in the cell, which showed a leak in the return port. That was repaired, so I got the battery out of my Lark to pressurize the system. The fuel system showed a leak in two of the brass fitting hose barbs that connect the rubber line to the steel line at the back and the front of the car. There were also four leaks in the 8 injectors where I drilled out the rail for the injectors, which means they weren't precise enough for the seals underneath to properly seal. Port injectors have these Viton O-Rings that seal the rail and the injector so the fuel doesn't leak out all over the place. There was also a leak in the back of one of the rails where I tapped it for a brass fitting.

    Seeing the leaks in the rails, I sat there next to the car, which I do alot, especially in situations like these, to "Ponder my Naval". Then I thought of the idea I had in the back of my head, which involved using 8 Tees that are normally used for oil, and 8 lines, with 8 pieces of rubber connecting the injectors to the steel line. It's like the old idea they used on the Packard Executive in '56. I may have a shot at this, as if something like this leaks, the hose clamps can be tightened. I didn't use it because there were too many fittings and lines, and hoses to keep track of. Basically it was alot of tiny pieces, rather than a few large pieces that I have right now, but it would be a scaled up version of what I did with oiling the turbos, which is a couple extra tees at the oil pressure gauge line.

    If this doesn't go, I'm going for another manifold here and getting my old Holley TBI unit and adapter.



    [IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/P1010531-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
    [IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/P1010550-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
    [IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/Ex%20Studebaker%20Plant%20Locomotive/P1000578-1.jpg[/IMG=right]
    [IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/My%201964%20Studebaker%20Commander%20R2/P1010168.jpg[/IMG=right]


  35. #115
    President Member PlainBrownR2's Avatar
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    Update

    We have a crude version of the finished product on the port injection(and some movies once they're loaded!!)

    Well I got a design in and functioning. I needed a 12V source to run the pump, so since the Lark is out of commission I jumped on using the battery to supply the electricity.





    I need to tie down the "manifold", but it is now a viable option to use on the car as it does do the job, even though the brainbox is not installed yet.

    There is an interesting story here on the pressure regulator. The pressure regulator is one of those universal guys from Ebay, but it didn't come with instructions. When I installed it, I did it like I have it installed on the Lark, where the Out is on the bottom(in this case returning to the tank), and the In is on the side(in this case comes off of the other side of the "manifold"). I got it working but I couldn't get a reading from the gauge. It wouldn't read anything no matter how far up or down I tightened adjustable screw. I thought the gauge was busted until I got the wild idea of reversing the connections. After I did that, all of sudden I got a nice reading for 40 lbs from the gauge!! Hey, how bout that, it looks like the Holley regulator, but operates in reverse of the Holley design, lol. Thankfully, nothing broke during this time, so now we can continue buttoning down the connections.

    Edit:
    Well here's the results. Note that it's not the koshered way of testing a fuel system, nor testing injectors, but this is usually the way I learn how a circuit works. They are somewhat big, so these are the links to the movies. The first one shows how the injectors work when the pump is running.
    http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t...t=P1020588.flv

    The second is the fuel system when the pump is running. I did have a couple of leaks, but those were resolved a couple minutes later.

    http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t...P1020587-1.flv


    [IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/P1010531-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
    [IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/P1010550-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
    [IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/Ex%20Studebaker%20Plant%20Locomotive/P1000578-1.jpg[/IMG=right]
    [IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/My%201964%20Studebaker%20Commander%20R2/P1010168.jpg[/IMG=right]


  36. #116
    President Member PlainBrownR2's Avatar
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    Update: Assorted details

    Since I lasted posted, the engine looked something like this, minus the alternator:



    So, I ran the oil lines, attached the accelerator and clutch linkage, greased the fittings that are near impossible to get to once everything is in place, ran the cooling lines for the passenger turbo, timed the valves, set the distributor, ran the spark plug wires, installed some much needed valve covers, installed the alternator, and began working on putting the gauges back in. The gauges were necessary because the last oil line I needed ran right to the gauge. In effect it went to looking something a little more like an engine should look like, like this:



    You're probably wondering about the alternator. The alternator is a GM SI Delco alternator from our 79 Blazer. It has three plugs on it and should put out somewhere in the neighborhood of the usual 100 amps. There is a catch though when I had to put this in. The SI Delco alternators, although they may function the same, can vary with design. This one does not have two ears for the pivot, rather it has one long ear, with an extension on the back.





    The generator bracket therefore, would not function when it was installed in the usual fashion, as when it was installed, it set the alternator back a good inch and a half! For belt alignment, we can't have that, so I took it off and put it back in the stock location. I saw that when installed, the alternator was at least a quarter to half an inch from where it needed to be, so I took it off, and drilled a couple of holes a quarter inch offset in the opposite direction. When it was reinstalled, it put the alternator almost dead even with the crank pulley(by about an 1/8 of an inch I estimate), however, I'll have to see if it flies off when the car is started.

    The bolt that held it in place was also too short, so I went to Menards and picked up the biggest 3/8 bolt they had, a piece 8 inches long. I put it in after drilling out the bracket holes and it worked like a charm.

    Now the last little thing that needed to be addressed, and I saved it for last for a reason, the pressure gauge line. I had a space for a fitting, however, the fitting would not bolt in with the clearance between the fitting and the firewall. So I lined up the drill bit, and drilled out a hole almost in line with the fitting, and ran the line through there. I installed a rubber grommet to keep the chafing to a minimum, and secured the other end to the gauge.



    Now, on to that Foxcraft shifter, radiator, and fan, of which I need to recall how that shifter was taken apart all those moons ago...






    [IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/P1010531-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
    [IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/P1010550-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
    [IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/Ex%20Studebaker%20Plant%20Locomotive/P1000578-1.jpg[/IMG=right]
    [IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/My%201964%20Studebaker%20Commander%20R2/P1010168.jpg[/IMG=right]


  37. #117
    Silver Hawk Member Milaca's Avatar
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    Having fun yet?

  38. #118
    President Member PlainBrownR2's Avatar
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    Well, who said the fun ever stopped?

    (Slowed maybe, stopped hardly [)])

    [IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/P1010531-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
    [IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/P1010550-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
    [IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/Ex%20Studebaker%20Plant%20Locomotive/P1000578-1.jpg[/IMG=right]
    [IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/My%201964%20Studebaker%20Commander%20R2/P1010168.jpg[/IMG=right]


  39. #119
    President Member PlainBrownR2's Avatar
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    Update:

    Foxcraft Shifter

    Well I got the shifter back in. Originally it started out as a simple hole in the folder with a rubber boot and the shifter poking up by the steering wheel. The shifter bracket mounts to the rear of the tranny and there are two threaded rods that go to brackets under the shifter, that have slots in them. If you wanna move from one 1st gear to say 2nd or 3rd, it's a simple matter of taking the protrusion out of one slot with the threaded rod and fitting it into the slot with the other threaded rod.
    Anyway, I oiled things down there and worked the shifter around a little bit. After that I made two steel plates to bolt around the hole, slipped the boot over the top, and then made an aluminum cover to slip over the boot. Doesn't look half bad, but the final product will probably have a carpet slipped over it to cover the aluminum plate. It was also installed right in front of the steering wheel, so it's just a matter of reaching in front and slapping the shifter, lol. I should also add that this was a very well working modification that the previous owner installed in the car, in fact this car was driven all over the planet with the shifter, so for the time being I know it worked when I took it apart [[.



    [IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/P1010531-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
    [IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/P1010550-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
    [IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/Ex%20Studebaker%20Plant%20Locomotive/P1000578-1.jpg[/IMG=right]
    [IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/My%201964%20Studebaker%20Commander%20R2/P1010168.jpg[/IMG=right]


  40. #120
    President Member
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    Getting closer to "South Bend we have ingnition." Look out Brown County Drags!

    Start and Stage Your Studebakers

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