My Street Version Port Injection for the '55

[Mike Van Veghten]

PB -

For future reference, you might think of using carbide rotory tools. This is espicially true for reshaping the corners of the ports.
As stones are used, they wear away and greatly change shape. This means, it's almost impossible to maintain a constant radius thru out the port. And this is important for a good outcome.

With a carbide cutter, they will last and hold their shape for a long time (many ports), so this way, each of your ports have the same corner radius.

Mike

[PackardV8]

Thanks for the photos and the update. Just a thought to share some experiences, as your valves seem typical of most original Studes.

quote:The valves were very grungy looking when the heads came off. Years of sitting, and petrol produced some valves that resembled the before pictures in the Shell gasoline commercials for the Nitrogen fuel. They were also very well seized into place when the heads came apart. . . . I then cleaned up each of the valves by using some 220 sandpaper, and then I chucked each valve in the drill press, and ran finer grits of sandpaper over the valve until I got a semi mirror finish again from the valves.

Yes, used valves can be cleaned, re-installed and run as is. Back in the bad old days, we used to do it all the time.

No, today I wouldn't put it back together without a valve regrind. While the heads are off, even a CASO should really consider having the valves and seats re-ground as a good investment. The improved sealing will produce more horsepower, a smoother idle, improved fuel economy and longer engine life.

Maybe, check the stem-to-guide clearance. Most used heads also have worn guides. If worn, the guides can be restored by knurling, bronze-wall sleeves or replaced with new.

Also, check the installed height spring pressure. If you are building a performance engine, the OEM springs are not strong enough to reliably rev past 5000 RPMs. Consider the R1 springs as a minimum.

Your car, your money, your decision.

thnx, jack vines

PackardV8

[PlainBrownR2]

Dually noted Mike. This is also something I don't regularly do either. Its also a case where the most reliable air supply I have was a small Badger compressor for airbrushing from where I was working at, so I relied on a robust AC powered Dremel to do the work. Those Dremels will fit a carbide bit, but they are usually a slender spear tipped cutter made for an 1/8 inch diameter chuck.
I would say for anyone else, and for the future, a Dremel can work, but locate some carbide bits with a bulb on the end, and don't force the Dremel because the housing can overheat and will distort the brushes out of alignment. I would also say, and I know I'm gonna get a "I told you so", but a die grinder with a 3/16? chuck with an assortment of larger diameter bits works very well, as well as having an adequate air supply to do it with.
And yes, using stones with a Dremel and the plastic "grip" will not only cause the stones to wear down, requiring a change of bits in the middle of cutting a port, the grip can loosen, rendering the bit to nothing more than a metal shaft and a stone that has separated from the shaft.
I know you and Tom are real experts on the matter. For the moment I did this for a regular street engine, and seeing if I could do it myself(first timer), so I'm not looking for any specific numbers. I am just looking for something that will behave better than a regular set of heads.

Edit:
I checked the clearances on the valve guides and the stems. The stems were still quite tight in the guides. The stems(the valves in particular, yeesh) were pretty grungy looking with corrosion and deposits from the old fuel. I don't plan on redlining the car too much, it will probably be driven under 4000 much of the time. What was interesting was once the valves were freed, the springs still retained much of their resiliency. If there is quite a bit of valve float, or if the money allows, I will refresh the springs. I also looked over the seats. The seats were surprisingly pretty clean. When I ported the heads, I didn't even touch them, unless I felt like sending them out to fix something I screwed up. Now the ideal thing to do is to regrind them, lap them, and then assemble them. If the heads aren't performing like they should, I'll take em off and send them in. The sorry thing is there are not many machine shops this direction, save for the machine shop in Lombard, who does machine work on Studebakers. Between that and doing this on a shoestring budget, I am usually left to do my own dirty work, lol [)]. But it keeps me busy until I can find work again.


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[PlainBrownR2]

As long as were on the subject grinding valves, this is the equipment I used. I can hear the few of you just rolling on the floor right now, it's equipment that was better suited to Model A's and lawnmower engines, but it's a learning experience nonetheless. In the pictures below two of the three items proved to be the best suited for the job:









The item to the lower left, valve spring compressor. If you're gonna disassemble heads, this has gotta be your first tool in the arsenal. This tool retracts the spring, so the keyways can be exposed and to remove or install the valve. The item in the upper left, valve grinder. By turning the crank, a seat can be ground onto the valve, but it will only put a standard angle on the valve. The item in the lower right, valve grinder for the head. It also has the tools necessary for lapping. When I checked out the head, the seat looked pretty pristine, so I didn't wanna fudge with it. The two grinders of course have been replaced with electric grinders. For mass production work I would use an electric grinder, as these are more suited to a Model A, one time use, or a lawnmower engine, with all due respect.

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[PlainBrownR2]

Update:

The Fuel Pump(Important part too )

Everybody knows to breathe life into an engine, we need a fuel pump. We know about the standby mechanical pumps for the stocker engines. We know about electric fuel pumps that will work in the stock systems. Both of these do pretty well for the carbureted application, as they usually pump from 7-14 psi such as the Holley Blue Pump here:




Unfortunately, fuel injection is not a controlled dribble, like a faucet, it's a electromagnetically controlled spray, like a fire hose. Therefore, we have another type of pump, the fuel injection pump, which can be found as an inline pump, or that "pain in the rear to get to" pump inside the tank. Originally, I bought the Blue Pump in Morris on the idea that I could use it, until I found out it may not be able to keep up. So I went to Ebay and found a fuel injection pump that will supposedly work. It's an alternative to the Walbro pump and will deliver 45 psi, rather than 14 psi that the Holley pump delivers. It was also a pretty comparable deal. I was looking at another pump that was $59.00 with $11.00 in shipping for a stock pump, or go with this pump for $79.00, no shipping, and it's an alternative replacement for the Walbro pump(or so they say anyway, lol), which is also a good name when it comes to purchasing fuel injection pumps. The alternative brand name $79.00 pump won out, lol.

That should cover the fuel components, now we need the lines and fittings.....




Oh, these pumps have an In and an Out. If I get them backwards the pump will not do very much. The pump also needs a filter before the pump to keep the sediment out(which can kill the vanes and geroter in these things pretty quick, ask me how, lol), and a larger filter with a finer micron screen between the pump and injectors to filter the smaller stuff that can plug up the carb or injectors.

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[PlainBrownR2]

Update:

It's here!!
About a couple days ago I placed an online order to DIYAutoTune for a MS1 2.2 PCB, which is essentially the lowest complete kit without going into the electronic kits. I could order the electronic kit because I like working with components, but from my track record from the Graymark kits in the past, including one so-so working robot kit, I don't do well with complicated schematics or heat sensitive parts. So I took the lazy way out, and I want it working when I get everything together . Anyway, here is the brainbox in all of its basic glory:


This is the front, it has a serial access port with three indicator lamps for when it's operating(kinda like the old external modems). The brainbox comes in either brushed aluminum or black, and I should probably get the Hot Wheelsesque Megasquirt decal for the window, but that's still aways off yet.


This is the rear, which contains a DB-37 port, and the MAP sensor(that vacuum port next to it), which is larger than the average DB-25 parallel printer port. I thought I saw this used in a SCSI application, but I think that was DB-50.


The name with the extra MSNS firmware loaded with the 12*12 VE tables. The tables should provide a little finer tuning once I get this working. I also had them do the MSNS in the event I go to distributorless and I didn't want to do anything extra to the brainbox.


This is the DB-37 connector, which will be used to assemble the wiring harness to the relays and the rest of the car. These come with the kit, so that makes things a little easier .


The last photo, I love the guys here so far, and I couldn't resist showing it, but I can't help thinking if this started to appear after Wily Coyote and that Acme Rocket went over that mountainside after the 10th time. I also know about the hallowed CYA statements as this is not a stock application(or a normal application for that matter), so this is necessary as its aftermarket.

On to fuses and relays, a cheap laptop, and all of that fun stuff......

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[PlainBrownR2]

We have an interesting situation on the MS1 brainbox, and it involves the "Assembly Instructions". The brainbox does not come with instructions, rather they are found here:

http://www.megamanual.com/mtabcon.htm

I apologize if I sound hostile but this is going to be something to make posting this stuff a little more enjoyable. I went and copied and pasted each section into a Word document, within it's own file labelled Megamanual. I also did the same for the Megatune software. Each section is around 50 pages long, or longer, so this instruction manual reads like a Far East Phonebook. It would be wiser to show a summary of the installation, as each installation seems to be left to the individual to assemble. If I get into the the installation details while working through the Megamanual, this would make for one verrrry large and verrrry complicated post, so I'll show some of the broader points in putting this into the car. Mostly I will post the end results and major installations and the stuff that gets installed, because that's mainly what we're interested in, I think. However, if anybody wants to know something specific, I won't be hesitant to try and respond .....

I will say if someone gets one, to open a Word document for each section, copy and paste each section in, that tailors to their particular brainbox, as well as the troubleshooting and schematic drawings of the wiring and brainbox. They should put each section into a folder labelled "Megamanual", for easy reference. They should then either find a large Canon type copier that can spit out whole texts, copy the manual to a couple of CD's, or be prepared to sacrifice an ink jet cartridge if they want to print out the whole manual. An individual should also copy the instructions and Megatune software to a folder as well that's labelled "Megatune", and the Assembler codes and instructions into a folder labelled "Megasquirt Assembler" Code. All three folders should go into a larger folder labelled "Megasquirt (I or II and the PCB version)". The Megatune and Megasquirt Assembler Code should also go on CD's, as one is the software for running the brainbox and the other is the technical programming code for the brain box. Basically, follow the rules like the Shop CD's .

As for me, I will probably copy my manual, software, and assembler code to the CD's, and print out the wiring diagrams so I can look at this stuff when it goes in the car. When I need to look something up I can bring it up on the PC or the laptop, easy enough. If I really need something I can print that specific section in the Word document. Oh about the software, it may need to be moved to a cheap and easy laptop because that's where the tuning takes place, through a serial cable into the port on the front, that's plugged into a PC, usually a laptop of sorts.

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[PlainBrownR2]

Update:

Relay Box(or not?)

There's two ways to wire the Megasquirt box in. One involves separately wiring each relay, fuse, and what have you into the wiring harness. This is the traditional method to wiring the relays:

http://www.bgsoflex.com/sensorwire.pdf

There's also a kit to assemble the relay board, but that doesn't use the cable, rather a simple, small, fat cable that runs between the brainbox and the relay box. It simplifies things since it uses terminals much like the OD solenoid, so I'm going to use a go-between and construct a version of the relay box. The box will use the traditional glass fuses to protect the injector banks, fuel pump, and main power. They will also use traditional glass fuses in the circuits to protect the ECU and +5 volt circuits. On the actual relay board these are protected by RayChem Polyfuses, that heat up and split open, and cool and close, kinda like a resettable fuse. I'd like to try the glass fuses as these are much more attainable in a gas station than losing a RayChem fuse.
The relay board also consists of three 12V 40A relays, one for the FI solenoid, one for the fuel pump, and one for the main power. So I went to Radio Shack(yeah ya heard me [)]) and I picked up:

3 12V 40A Relays
8 Glass Fuse Holders
8 Glass Fuses and some extra fuses

I also discovered that our Radio Shack has no DB37 connectors, so I'll split the harness on the relay box and go with:

1 DB25 male connector
1 DB15 male connector
(25 pins + 15 pins= 40 pins, a few extra pins than I'll need but that's alright [)])

I can cannibalize a DB 25 female connector from our old computer stash and I needed to get a DB15 female connector with my DB15 male connector.

Edit:
Just realized I posted the 3.0 version of the external wiring diagram, not the 2.2 wiring diagram, which applies more to my controller, we can't have none of that.... [)]





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[PlainBrownR2]

A little update :

Relay Box







There's a method this spaghetti bowl, all I can say is I never liked soldiering pin assignments [)]. This is gonna be the distribution board which will sit in a metal case or box I'll assemble. The two ports will receive the cable from the brain box, the terminals will go to the rest of the engine. If a fuse pops, they are all in one location and readily able to be replaced at any gas station . Oh and the board should be prototype board(or gingerbread), but I didn't have any so I borrowed some heavy plastic from my model railroading stockpile.

Hmm, I wonder if I should plaster a larger Lazy S on the brainbox, and a small Lazy S on the relay box just for giggles. This would be the ill sold engine upgrade(or maybe a prototype engine system) to the 289 [)].....

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[PlainBrownR2]

Update:

Completion of Relay Control Box

Level of Engineering Obnoxiousness Exceeded [)]

I completed the relay box with fuse panel. It will be mounted somewhere near the brainbox on a level flat surface. I probably went overkill on the fuse panel, of which it really should just be a circuit board somewhere mounted on the firewall, but I have a wild imagination and an affinity toward sci fi spaceships and the technology where this stuff flips open [}]. I hacked down a piano hinge and used a briefcase latch to secure both halves. As you can see it opens like a clamshell, and it is open in the back. The wiring was such that it was just easier to leave the rear open. It should provide ventilation if anything. The cables get plugged in through the front, and if a fuse blows, I just have to flip it open and pop the glass fuse out.











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[PlainBrownR2]

Update

Relay Cable

I just completed the relay cable. There's two ways to go about using the brainbox. One involves taking the DB37 connector and making a wiring harness to run all over the engine. The other involves buying or making a cable to go from the brainbox to a relay box.

I went with the latter. I had the supplied connector that came with the brainbox, but Radio Shack didn't stock any of these DB37 connectors. So, I went to my old computer stash, "borrowed" a DB25 connector, as well as used a DB15 connector from Radio Shack, and assembled a cable. The one end that connects to the brainbox matters because it has a fixed male and female connector. The other end doesn't matter, but I had to remember the pinouts, and where the wires in the cable ran to. I didn't want a temp sensor running to a pin designated to the TPS sensor on the brain box, or vice versa. I made the cable about four feet long, so I have plenty when it's time to go in the car. Both of these connectors are female as the connectors on the relay box are male. The wires run from the pinout on the back of the box, to corresponding pinouts on the relay box, which in turn distribute power to relays, fuses, and the sensors in the engine compartment. For instance Pin 37 on the back of the brainbox, has a soldiered wire to the female Pin 37 on the DB37 connector, which in turn, runs to Pin 37(or the 12th pin on the DB15 connector, the smaller connector), which then runs a wire to a return wire for the fuel pump relay. When it came to soldiering wires to pins, this was never an easy task now or before, because each pin must have a wire soldiered to it, and I must be careful not to glob too much soldier on the pin or we get a soldier bridge . After the cable was completed I tested each circuit with the Diode tester on my Fluke which gives a bleep when a circuit is completed. This is done by putting both connectors in a vise, and probing the corresponding pins to make sure there is a circuit. Pin 1 to Pin 1, Pin 2 to Pin 2, and so forth. Thus far, each path gave an individual beep and I didn't get any beeps when I probed the other connectors on the connector. IE, each pin has an individual circuit and none of the pins are shorting to the other wires in the cable.

Once this was done I Ty-Wrapped the cables, put plastic hoods on the connector ends, wrapped the cable in black electrical tape, and the rest is history. I also learned to use 18 or 20 gauge, because the 14 gauge I wanted to use kept breaking off the soldier joints on the pins . For something this small, it's just too thick and immovable where I could really use it in this application.







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[PlainBrownR2]

Update:

Fuel line



Left to Right: Union Couplings for joining the large lines, 3/8 Fuel line crossover on the manifold for the fuel rails, 3/8 Fuel cell to Fuel pump line, 3/8 Return line(2), 5/16 Supply Line(2).

The Commander has had it's original brake and fuel lines in the car since we picked it up as a parts car. I know that without looking, these will need to be replaced, as the fuel line under there is still stock and for the most part, gone. I got a wild hair tonight and went to Farm and Fleet and got the fuel line for the Commander. At the moment I just did a rough measurement from the rear tire to the front tire and made a guess on the amount I needed on both sides. I knew the fittings I needed because I made a sketch of the fuel line in my notebook, and I knew what line I needed by the details I made in the notebook between the fittings (fuel cell to fuel pump, fuel pump to fuel filter, etc). The supply side will be 5/16 since the pump to regulator is 1/4 or 5/16. The Return will be 3/8 since the fuel cell return port is 3/8 and it makes thing so much simpler to keep the line standard size all the way back from the regulator fitting. There's about 10 feet of line on either side, plus some additional line length from the other pieces. I'm fairly sure I will have extra(which is always a good thing in case a person messes up a fitting), and that the line will need to be cut, flared and bent, of which I have the tools and talent to do already. I've had to do similar projects on the Lark, so this shouldn't be difficult, except for the entertaining part about locating the proper step up and step down fittings in the hardware store drawers.
I also want as little rubber in the line as possible. I'd like to get as much of the hard stuff under the car to save on any future problems with the petrol that runs through it.

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[PlainBrownR2]

Update:

Fuel Cell


I have begun the installation of the fuel cell. The fuel cell will face to the rear and the sump will be in the rear, so it will maximize having fuel going to the pump nearly 100 percent all the time both at idle and when the car is moving. The fuel cell will be lowered halfway in where the fuel cell will half in the trunk and half in the bottom of the vehicle just above the trunk floor, that way I will still retain use of spare tire and its area.





The gas tank will be kept for a spare gas tank. A MAJOR word of advice. Do not toss these tanks. The 1955 C/K gas tanks are getting hard to find, both in 1994 and in the present day. It is much better to retain these rather than throwing these out forever and ever .





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[PlainBrownR2]

Well, it's partially in before the snow began to fall, the contact tip in the welder jammed, at it became unrealistic to continue in wet weather. I guess I'll see this section of the project again sometime at the end of April, or maybe the middle of March....[)]

There will be about six or so brackets that hang down from the trunk in a basket sort of arrangement, followed by a couple of pieces that will come from the frame to strengthen the basket and the trunk. There will be a sheetmetal shell around the outer part of the cell to protect it.

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[IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/P1010550-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
[IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/Ex%20Studebaker%20Plant%20Locomotive/P1000578-1.jpg[/IMG=right]
[IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/My%201964%20Studebaker%20Commander%20R2/P1010168.jpg[/IMG=right]

[PlainBrownR2]

Update:

Did a little more work on frame for the fuel cell to drop into. I painted the frame a nice Rustoleum black. Maybe tomorrow I'll put in some aluminum panels around the inside of that frame to protect the fuel cell from the underside and then we can work on aluminum straps to attach it. The frame is affixed to the bottom of the trunk by making some hooks and welding them into the floor and the sides of the bottom of the frame, so it's like a basket.





About the last picture, the front of the car is sitting on a couple of used rims, which act like permanent jackstands so I can better get under it without the necessity of actual jackstands, which is why it looks cocky-eyed.

[IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/P1010531-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
[IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/P1010550-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
[IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/Ex%20Studebaker%20Plant%20Locomotive/P1000578-1.jpg[/IMG=right]
[IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/My%201964%20Studebaker%20Commander%20R2/P1010168.jpg[/IMG=right]