My Street Version Port Injection for the '55

[PlainBrownR2]

Ideally yeah, as both stand and hoist are made for a smooooth concrete garage floor, but now it's not needed as the grunt work is pretty much finished with the heavy lifting.
All I can say for now is, Deus Ex Machina(It is done).

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[PlainBrownR2]

Update:

Passenger side turbo

Over the past couple of days I have been working on the flange or adaptor for the Mitsubishi TD05 turbo. It went in today, but I'll have to get pictures tomorrow(or start constructing a flashbulb device similar to O Winston Link's to get night shots). The adapter is made of straight pieces. This took some patience as I had to mock up, add a length of pipe, determine the angle and direction I had to go in with the next piece, and repeat. It started as this could be done off the car, but once the piece got somewhat big, and closer to positioning the turbo, I had to bolt it on to determine much more precise positioning of where the flange, and the turbo, were going to end up. The turbo is mounted by the firewall, and hanging down since the flange on the turbo is pointed up, and the outlet pipe is pointed down. The flange resembles a Letter C, with the turbo hanging from the top of the C. I also attached the turbo with grade 8 bolts mig welded as studs to the flange plate, so it will necessitate speedier removal if need be.

Here's some pictures of how it looked from earlier today. I thought this one piece business made of straight sections was gonna look terrible, but after mounting it, and painting it Rustoleum Black, it doesn't look half bad . Oh, I also reused some old headpipes to make the pipes, so there may be a second life for the old stock pipe after all .

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The other turbo may get mounted down by the front on the driver's side due to the steering box over there. This engine has accomodations for a power steering setup, as it has an extra pulley, but the car has manual steering. Ergo, what I'll do is use the extra space on that side to mount the turbo up front. Now yall might asking about why the battery is going to the back, well one of the reasons is I'm not sure how much space the other turbo will take up, so it will open up some additional real estate over there for me to be able to reposition the unit if need be.

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[PlainBrownR2]

Alright, here's the results from yesterday. Today wasn't too conducive for going outside to play in(too cold and windy, ahhh spring).







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[mweiss]

Here's where I am at , now. Just wanted to update you, not hijack.Fabricating the exhaust for the left unit will require a forward run, and under the PS pulley, due to constraints generated by the steering box, which actually required some minor modification to clear the upturned manifold. The left turbo had to face exhaust-forward. The right turbo can get out with a couple of 90-120 bends, but the oil filter will require a remote mounting. The viper T56 is rebuilt, and mounted, the crossmember support was kind of a nuisance due to the 10 degree cock-up of the tailshaft. I just placed the driveshaft, a 3 inch diameter tube, into the 4.55 Dana. Putting together the fuel injection materials has begun, but the run to the mass meter, in front of the carb hat, will require a pretty good straight run. I am going to add an intercooler, which will help I think, on general prinicples, and the output should make it over the radiator, to give me that required run to avoid turbulence. I am having trouble planning a cold air intake, too many bends and not enough room. May have to go with hot, underhood air after all, something I wanted to avoid.Thanks- m weiss



ok

[PlainBrownR2]

It's alright, regarding the turbos we share some of the similar problems here . Today I started on the driver's turbo flange. Basically since I'm using stock manifolds and stock positions, I'm going down the manifold about and inch, going over about an inch, and coming up in a U shape so it comes up on the upside of the engine. I'm having a similar difficulty on the driver's side with the steering box as well. It took a couple of tries to tack the pipe, check the clearance, separate, and retack again so it came out between the front of the steering box, and between the exhaust manifold and the fender. The nice thing is the Commander has the manual steering, so there is a little bit of space to fool around with since there's no pump. Hopefully once the other turbo is done, I can start running lines and put in my FI as well.

Yours isn't looking too bad either, oh what will the judges make of our cars!!

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[PlainBrownR2]

Update:

The Driver's turbo

Between yesterday and today I worked on the flange on that side. The problem was the last few inches. The Pontiac turbo has a very uniquely angled flange to it. I was also having problems precisely positioning the turbo over the former battery tray. Once that was done it was followed with another little problem. The Pontiac flange was a triangle rather than a square, with a pipe protusion sticking up. So now the rest of the afternoon was then spent turning my square hole into a triangular adapter with a round hole. This was accomplished by taking a piece of flared pipe, sticking it on the protusion on the turbo, and then welding the flat piece of metal to it. After that I drilled the three holes, welded in the two studs, and the flange was finished (I hope). After all was said and done, I had one more turbo hanging from the engine. It doesn't look half bad, although it has a few more segments than it's passenger counterpart.







Now, on to lines, brackets and other details .....

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[PlainBrownR2]

Update

Port Injection(the main Act)

Well, the turbos are in, brackets have been welded in and tested, it has a gas tank and a pump, guess that means I'm gonna have to put this device in place and get crackin on that....



There was nothing to it, it attaches like a regular intake manifold...just with a few extra things on top.

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[PlainBrownR2]

Update:

Port Injection

The fuel rails are have been installed. I hacked off at least 3-5 inches off the ends and retapped the threads, as the one side was up against the firewall, and the other side was over the distributor cap(I guess I should hold for the, I told you so's, lol). After that was done, I installed 5/16 steel line to the supply side. I also made some hold downs for the frame and body to hold the fuel line in place, which were made from strips of sheet aluminum, and secured with sheet metal screws. I plan to install 3/8 to the return side as the line just returns to the fuel cell, so it saves me a few dollars in brass fittings.

I'll say if there's ever a time where you wonder about what port injection looks like on a vintage Stude, this might come pretty close.



I also painted the intake manifold red to signify the experimental project that very briefly got out the doors of the Studebaker Corporation, so it had to look the part of being a whole new part, lol. It also lets me spot my open hood from the sixth story hotel room across the parking lot .

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[PlainBrownR2]

Update:

Imminent deep sixing of the fuel rails(I ain't joking on this day either)

I completed the fuel circuit, so soon after I began testing the system by running gas through the lines and the tank, so I put gas in the cell, which showed a leak in the return port. That was repaired, so I got the battery out of my Lark to pressurize the system. The fuel system showed a leak in two of the brass fitting hose barbs that connect the rubber line to the steel line at the back and the front of the car. There were also four leaks in the 8 injectors where I drilled out the rail for the injectors, which means they weren't precise enough for the seals underneath to properly seal. Port injectors have these Viton O-Rings that seal the rail and the injector so the fuel doesn't leak out all over the place. There was also a leak in the back of one of the rails where I tapped it for a brass fitting.

Seeing the leaks in the rails, I sat there next to the car, which I do alot, especially in situations like these, to "Ponder my Naval". Then I thought of the idea I had in the back of my head, which involved using 8 Tees that are normally used for oil, and 8 lines, with 8 pieces of rubber connecting the injectors to the steel line. It's like the old idea they used on the Packard Executive in '56. I may have a shot at this, as if something like this leaks, the hose clamps can be tightened. I didn't use it because there were too many fittings and lines, and hoses to keep track of. Basically it was alot of tiny pieces, rather than a few large pieces that I have right now, but it would be a scaled up version of what I did with oiling the turbos, which is a couple extra tees at the oil pressure gauge line.

If this doesn't go, I'm going for another manifold here and getting my old Holley TBI unit and adapter.



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[PlainBrownR2]

Update

We have a crude version of the finished product on the port injection(and some movies once they're loaded!!)

Well I got a design in and functioning. I needed a 12V source to run the pump, so since the Lark is out of commission I jumped on using the battery to supply the electricity.





I need to tie down the "manifold", but it is now a viable option to use on the car as it does do the job, even though the brainbox is not installed yet.

There is an interesting story here on the pressure regulator. The pressure regulator is one of those universal guys from Ebay, but it didn't come with instructions. When I installed it, I did it like I have it installed on the Lark, where the Out is on the bottom(in this case returning to the tank), and the In is on the side(in this case comes off of the other side of the "manifold"). I got it working but I couldn't get a reading from the gauge. It wouldn't read anything no matter how far up or down I tightened adjustable screw. I thought the gauge was busted until I got the wild idea of reversing the connections. After I did that, all of sudden I got a nice reading for 40 lbs from the gauge!! Hey, how bout that, it looks like the Holley regulator, but operates in reverse of the Holley design, lol. Thankfully, nothing broke during this time, so now we can continue buttoning down the connections.

Edit:
Well here's the results. Note that it's not the koshered way of testing a fuel system, nor testing injectors, but this is usually the way I learn how a circuit works. They are somewhat big, so these are the links to the movies. The first one shows how the injectors work when the pump is running.

http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/?action=view&current=P1020588.flv

The second is the fuel system when the pump is running. I did have a couple of leaks, but those were resolved a couple minutes later.

http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/?action=view&current=P1020587-1.flv

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[PlainBrownR2]

Update: Assorted details

Since I lasted posted, the engine looked something like this, minus the alternator:



So, I ran the oil lines, attached the accelerator and clutch linkage, greased the fittings that are near impossible to get to once everything is in place, ran the cooling lines for the passenger turbo, timed the valves, set the distributor, ran the spark plug wires, installed some much needed valve covers, installed the alternator, and began working on putting the gauges back in. The gauges were necessary because the last oil line I needed ran right to the gauge. In effect it went to looking something a little more like an engine should look like, like this:



You're probably wondering about the alternator. The alternator is a GM SI Delco alternator from our 79 Blazer. It has three plugs on it and should put out somewhere in the neighborhood of the usual 100 amps. There is a catch though when I had to put this in. The SI Delco alternators, although they may function the same, can vary with design. This one does not have two ears for the pivot, rather it has one long ear, with an extension on the back.





The generator bracket therefore, would not function when it was installed in the usual fashion, as when it was installed, it set the alternator back a good inch and a half! For belt alignment, we can't have that, so I took it off and put it back in the stock location. I saw that when installed, the alternator was at least a quarter to half an inch from where it needed to be, so I took it off, and drilled a couple of holes a quarter inch offset in the opposite direction. When it was reinstalled, it put the alternator almost dead even with the crank pulley(by about an 1/8 of an inch I estimate), however, I'll have to see if it flies off when the car is started.

The bolt that held it in place was also too short, so I went to Menards and picked up the biggest 3/8 bolt they had, a piece 8 inches long. I put it in after drilling out the bracket holes and it worked like a charm.

Now the last little thing that needed to be addressed, and I saved it for last for a reason, the pressure gauge line. I had a space for a fitting, however, the fitting would not bolt in with the clearance between the fitting and the firewall. So I lined up the drill bit, and drilled out a hole almost in line with the fitting, and ran the line through there. I installed a rubber grommet to keep the chafing to a minimum, and secured the other end to the gauge.



Now, on to that Foxcraft shifter, radiator, and fan, of which I need to recall how that shifter was taken apart all those moons ago...






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[Milaca]

Having fun yet?

[PlainBrownR2]

Well, who said the fun ever stopped?

(Slowed maybe, stopped hardly [)])

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[PlainBrownR2]

Update:

Foxcraft Shifter

Well I got the shifter back in. Originally it started out as a simple hole in the folder with a rubber boot and the shifter poking up by the steering wheel. The shifter bracket mounts to the rear of the tranny and there are two threaded rods that go to brackets under the shifter, that have slots in them. If you wanna move from one 1st gear to say 2nd or 3rd, it's a simple matter of taking the protrusion out of one slot with the threaded rod and fitting it into the slot with the other threaded rod.
Anyway, I oiled things down there and worked the shifter around a little bit. After that I made two steel plates to bolt around the hole, slipped the boot over the top, and then made an aluminum cover to slip over the boot. Doesn't look half bad, but the final product will probably have a carpet slipped over it to cover the aluminum plate. It was also installed right in front of the steering wheel, so it's just a matter of reaching in front and slapping the shifter, lol. I should also add that this was a very well working modification that the previous owner installed in the car, in fact this car was driven all over the planet with the shifter, so for the time being I know it worked when I took it apart [[.



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[11SecAvanti]

Getting closer to "South Bend we have ingnition." Look out Brown County Drags!

Start and Stage Your Studebakers