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  • Transtar frame swap?

    Hey all! I'm brand new to the forum, but it seems that there is a wealth of knowledge here, so forgive me if this has already been addressed in previous posts, but...

    I have a 1956 Studebaker Transtar 3/4 Ton Longbed Pickup truck that I am in the process of fixing up. I have all of the original parts that came on the truck from factory, but due to a number of reasons, I am planning on removing the body components (cab, fenders, etc...) and would like to swap them on to a rolling chassis of another truck (in order to have more modern luxuries like an alternator, disc brakes, etc...)

    Has anyone had any experience with this type of conversion? I keep hearing that a Chevy S10 frame will work, but...

    Thanks!

  • #2
    You can bolt an alternator on in an afternoon.
    A frame swap takes longer.
    You can add Turner disc brakes in a weekend.
    A frame swap takes longer.
    You can add power windows in a weekend.
    A frame swap takes longer.
    You can read magazines all day long to get ideas.
    A frame swap takes longer.

    Your truck.
    Your decision.
    More attention will be paid to an all Studebaker truck than a hybrid.Have fun with your Stude, and welcome to the forum!
    Jeff[8D]


    quote:Originally posted by ian006

    Hey all! I'm brand new to the forum, but it seems that there is a wealth of knowledge here, so forgive me if this has already been addressed in previous posts, but...

    I have a 1956 Studebaker Transtar 3/4 Ton Longbed Pickup truck that I am in the process of fixing up. I have all of the original parts that came on the truck from factory, but due to a number of reasons, I am planning on removing the body components (cab, fenders, etc...) and would like to swap them on to a rolling chassis of another truck (in order to have more modern luxuries like an alternator, disc brakes, etc...)

    Has anyone had any experience with this type of conversion? I keep hearing that a Chevy S10 frame will work, but...

    Thanks!
    HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

    Jeff


    Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



    Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks for the feedback Jeff!

      I'm keeping all of the original factory parts so that I can restore them properly over time. The truck has sat for about 30 years and had only 80,000 original miles on it when it was parked, so it's got a healthy bit of work to get it together. However, I would like to enjoy the classic Stude style in the mean time.

      I agree with you entirely, though. There's nothing like the real thing (when it's done correctly).

      Comment


      • #4
        Jeff speaks the truth. What you think is missing is easily available without the S-10.

        Jeff and I both like hot rods so don't take this that we only want restored vehicles here. That isn't the case. But we've seen enough bad conversions that started with an S-10 to fill a guide book of what not to do. I personally wish all S-10's would be scrapped.

        Parts are readily available for just about all post-war Studebakers and this includes hop-up parts. I was originally just going to toss a SBC and a T-5 in my Daytona, and have now decided to run Stude power (289 V8). The cars and trucks can be lowered. Disc brakes can be added and the engines have some good vintage hot rod parts available for both the V8 and 6 cylinder. Jeff has a SBC in his CE (Coupe Express pick up).

        Take a look around the forum and the main website for tech on various Stude stuff. Check out some of the vendors websites and see what is truely available for your truck without changing it's character. As Jeff said, your truck and your money.

        ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
        Tom - Mulberry, FL

        1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2125.60)

        1964 Studebaker Commander 170-1V, 3-speed w/OD (Cost to Date: $623.67)

        Tom - Bradenton, FL

        1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
        1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD

        Comment


        • #5
          The s10 has a pretty narrow track. But the Stude cab is mounted in only three areas, with another mount for the radiator support in one place centered; so the swap should be fairly easy. It's a big deal to swap front suspension, rearend, engine and trans; one step at a time. My 61 ranchero might be almost ready for a bronco frame since the wheelbsase is the same. I would look into a ford ranger II since that stepside bed is a great match to the stude. That would save you the trouble of restoring your stude bed plus fabbing all the bed mounts. Find one with the right wheelbase and go from there. A very important secondary measurement is a comparison of the relationship between the firewall and the front axle centerline. That is, if you intend to run the engine and trans that are already in the newer truck. That ford injected 4.0 V6 with an a4ld would make for a sweet cruiser. If you wouldn't run the ford motor, then wheelbase is the only consideration. Measure from the front of the bed to the front axle centerline to see if the stude cab would be compatible.

          Comment


          • #6
            quote: so the swap should be fairly easy.
            Fairly easy for a experienced and accomplished shadetree such as yourself. However, Jeff and Tom are correct to err on the side of caution in recommending a frame swap without firsthand knowledge of ian006's capabilities.

            Just for the sake of conversation, if ian006 brought you his C-cab, how much would you charge him to give him a completed Ford Ranger swap?

            thnx, jack vines

            PackardV8
            PackardV8

            Comment


            • #7
              I have owned stock and resto-mod Studebaker pickups. The resto-mods had Camaro/Trans Am front clips. I have never even seen one done on an S-10 frame. I have seen them done on full size Chevy/GMC frames. These were neat conversions.

              To drive, the modified pickups were much nicer to live with (ind. susp., ps, pdb, A/C, etc.). Stock is nice because it is all Studebaker and as built.

              I do not know your experience level. A task like a frame swap is not as simple as it appears at first glance. Many projects get dropped mid-way. Your truck - do what you want.

              Gary L.
              Wappinger, NY

              SDC member since 1968
              Studebaker enthusiast much longer
              Gary L.
              Wappinger, NY

              SDC member since 1968
              Studebaker enthusiast much longer

              Comment


              • #8
                I wouldn't assume that any person doesn't have the ability to make a frame swap. I know it would be a lot easier than swapping in all of the individual components, that's a fact. And the originator of this thread is assumed to have the abilities mentioned by he; himself. All is required is a lot of measuring before committing to a particular marque. Some of you guys are johnny on the spot with "DON'T DO IT!!!" Instead of actually helping with what it's going to take to make it happen. All we have to fear is fear itself....

                Comment


                • #9


                  The reason some of us recommend careful and prudent investigation of all the steps involved is we've seen more failed than successful frame conversions - here's an example currently on craigslist:


                  1950 Studebaker truck - $400 (spokane)
                  I have everything for the cab fenders hood all interior parts. NO TITLE you can get one I have just lost intrest. I was putting it on a chevy 4x4 frame. Call if interested [u]http://spokane.craigslist.org/pts/1295584792.html</u>

                  As always, his money, his truck, his decision.

                  thnx, jack vines

                  PackardV8
                  PackardV8

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I am in agreement with you on one point.
                    Never assume one does not have the talent, or ability.
                    I love good work.
                    But the original post listed some very, very basic items to justify a very major undertaking.
                    Swapping an entire frame to improve brakes and an alternator is very quesionable.
                    Can it be done? Sure. Anything can be done.
                    But the end result is really what counts.
                    I preach constantly to do good work.
                    Junkyard swaps can be great.... But they take talent, and mostly...experience.
                    I don't want to see any more stalled or failed Stude swap projects...
                    But that is just me....
                    Jeff[8D]


                    quote:Originally posted by buddymander

                    I wouldn't assume that any person doesn't have the ability to make a frame swap. I know it would be a lot easier than swapping in all of the individual components, that's a fact. And the originator of this thread is assumed to have the abilities mentioned by he; himself. All is required is a lot of measuring before committing to a particular marque. Some of you guys are johnny on the spot with "DON'T DO IT!!!" Instead of actually helping with what it's going to take to make it happen. All we have to fear is fear itself....
                    HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

                    Jeff


                    Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



                    Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      We ARE going to see more stalled and failed Stude projects; just a matter of time. It's NOT just YOU. But I would like to see more frame swaps in the interest of putting MORE Studes back on the road; no matter what the power. I know from experience that it's a lot easier to swap frames than all that stuff individually, so I'm for promoting the search for just the right one for each type and model of Studebaker. When I got my 49 R it was on a 73 cutlass frame; "Cuz it was the same wheelbase". It was also a mess. But it WAS at least another Stude that was on the road instead of on the road to the crusher. Since I can appreciate the look of the Ranger II stepside bed on the R truck, I've been wondering if there is a Ranger II that would adapt itself easily to the dimensions of the Fifties series truck.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Oh, and, I am assuming that the thread originator is actually looking for more than just an alternator and disc brakes...He seems a lot more intelligent than to go to all that trouble for just those items. I believe he wants power steering, IFS, sway bars, higher geared rearend, easily obtainable replacement parts, and MAYBE fuel injection and automatic overdrive. But that's just ME.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          OK.. Help him out.
                          I will too.
                          Jeff[8D]


                          quote:Originally posted by buddymander

                          Oh, and, I am assuming that the thread originator is actually looking for more than just an alternator and disc brakes...He seems a lot more intelligent than to go to all that trouble for just those items. I believe he wants power steering, IFS, sway bars, higher geared rearend, easily obtainable replacement parts, and MAYBE fuel injection and automatic overdrive. But that's just ME.
                          HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

                          Jeff


                          Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



                          Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            At the Internationl meet in Spokane there was a red Stude truck with a gm Typhoon or Syclone drivetrain, and I actually think it was in fact a total frame swap. It appeared to be well done, the only thing I personally didn't care for was using the stock gm alloy wheels as I think it made the truck too modern looking on the outside. Regardless, it was a well done Stude, still on the road, modern steering, brakes, etc, and a rocket in disguise. I'm thinking the owner is probably in the SDC, and must be able to provide you with some insight as what to do or not to do.
                            sigpic
                            1954 C5 Hamilton car.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              First off, I'd like to thank EVERYONE for the quick feedback. It's obvious that there is a lot of appreciate and passion for Studes (in nearly any capacity) here, and all comments are well received.

                              Buddymander, you are correct in thinking that I would like to have more than just disc brakes and an alternator. IFS, swaybars, ps, A/c, etc.. are all points of interest that I would love to have, while still having the classic Stude appearance.

                              I suppose this thread should have more appropriately been directed towards our hotrod community that are familiar with what existing modern truck frames most easily (though I understand that "most easily" does not mean "no difficulty"") will afford me the opportunity to make this swap. I will absolutely take a closer look at the Ranger II that was suggested, but as for my experience level...

                              I am having the swap done by a professional vintage car restoration/custom hotrod shop local to me here in Atlanta, Ga. Though I'm great with a wrench, I'm not so fantastic with a welding torch. I have already COMPLETELY deconstructed the truck to have the cab, doors, and other body components media blasted and epoxy sealed, and do not currently know what my wheelbase is (I brought them the original frame to have it blasted and powder coated); anyone know a good reference site for the wheelbase of a '56 Transtar 2E12 3/4 Ton? I think that is what will make the first difference (though certainly not the last) in finding a truck that will work for this swap.

                              Thoughts?

                              Comment

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