Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Transmission Problem

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Transmission Problem

    I am working on a 56 Hawk that has a 57 Golden Hawk engine and a transmission that has been converted to floor shift.
    The transmission has common ford style shifter pattern like early mustang with reverse between park & neutral (P,R,N,D,2,1).
    The oval transmission tag is sprayed over, but can read 11008 stamped into it.

    The problem is the Kickdown and/or Pressure arm that would go to the throttle linkage was cut off for some reason (see picture) and I am not sure why, or if it will burn up the transmission without it.
    I know that I can manually shift without it, but don't want to mess it up although I am trying to get it on the road (after sitting about 35 years) soon to drive in the Northwest Overdrive Tour.

    I found the following on some other previous posts, but is it going to damage the transmission manually shifting until I can set up a new arm?

    Hard to tell what may have been modified, or what the trans 11008 is from.





    buddymander
    Commander Member
    1012 Posts
    Posted - 08/31/2008 : 8:10:02 PM
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Without the rod, the transmission thinks you're accelerating very slowly, so it shifts early and soft. You won't hurt it as long as you don't hotrod it while its shifting.


    dynolou2
    Cruiser Member
    USA
    121 Posts
    Posted - 04/11/2008 : 12:33:05 AM

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    On any FMX the kickdown is just that,its only purpose. On the Flightomatic the rod does two operations kickdown AND throttle pressure , it raises transmission mainline pressure in response to accelerator position. If mainline isn't boosted you will get early shifts doggie acceleration and soon a burnt up transmission. Same thing happens to 700R4,s and AOD,s if throttle pressure is set too low or on AOD,s failure of the upper linkage grommit{cooked by engine heat}. On Fmx prior to late 1961 the lever did the same as Flightomatics. Most or all of the parts are available why mess with the Lokar stuff? Lou Cote "Waiting for the sun"

    Thanks for any answers (not just opinions) on this.
    Note - The lower cut off arm spring applies as it is pressed down and back.

    James

    The Bell Collection
    Bellingham, WA.
    Bells Studebaker Diner & Museum
    Bellingham, WA.

  • #2
    When I first looked at that H.D. Oil cooled, short tail Flight-O-Matic with the Mustang floor shifter, remember what I said James? Ok, there's no throttle pressure rod, where's the Vacuum Modulator? [?]

    Seeing none, I was as confused as you! We know the valve body has been changed to a Power Shift or Cruise-O-Matic to have that Ford shift pattern, other than that, it sure LOOKS like a stock '57 Golden Hawk Transmission! [:0]

    I guess welding on an extension or changing out the throttle pressure shaft & lever are the only options. We may never know WHY this was done!

    Confused in Seattle, er Bellingham! [:0]


    StudeRich at Studebakers Northwest -Ferndale,WA
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner
    SDC Member Since 1967

    Comment


    • #3
      I thought the pressure rod worked the opposite way from top of the transmission input shaft on the last one I adjusted.

      The transmission is currently empty of fluid after I adjusted the bands and changed the filter. I hate to add fluid if I need to pull valve body and replace the cut off peice (at least until after NW Overdrive Tour and finding a new one).
      I also need to fire up the engine and get it running correctly, then do brake system etc.
      After I went through rebuilding the carburetor, ignition sytem and cooling system, I may need to get a bunch of other bugs out after 35 years of sittig.
      Is it going to damage the transmission manually shifting until I can set up a new arm, just affect the kick down, or burn up the transmission?
      I may try adapting something where cut off but notice it swings into the lower pan without a sharp bend, or attach linkage to stub.

      Thanks,

      James

      The Bell Collection
      Bellingham, WA.
      Bells Studebaker Diner & Museum
      Bellingham, WA.

      Comment


      • #4
        First of all, don't run the engine with no fluid in the trans. If the trans pump can't pump fluid, you WILL burn the bushings out; even just idling. 2 All FMXs have a modulator. 3 FMX's were introduced in the late sixties. 4 I stand behind my previous post stating that you CAN run this trans without a kickdown as long as you don't hotrod it while it is trying to shift. I would shift it manually and move the lever while letting off the gas. It looks like the kickdown lever is not engaged in the valve body; judging by the angle of the arm. See if it feels like it is spring loaded. Those arms are a real pain to change. There's a large nut inside the case that releases both the kickdown and manual valve lever at the same time, while the manual valve lever is pushing against a spring to give the lever detent positioning. I would weld on an arm from the outside, but too much heat will fry the seal.

        Comment


        • #5
          quote:Originally posted by buddymander

          First of all, don't run the engine with no fluid in the trans. If the trans pump can't pump fluid, you WILL burn the bushings out; even just idling. 2 All FMXs have a modulator. 3 FMX's were introduced in the late sixties. 4 I stand behind my previous post stating that you CAN run this trans without a kickdown as long as you don't hotrod it while it is trying to shift. I would shift it manually and move the lever while letting off the gas. It looks like the kickdown lever is not engaged in the valve body; judging by the angle of the arm. See if it feels like it is spring loaded. Those arms are a real pain to change. There's a large nut inside the case that releases both the kickdown and manual valve lever at the same time, while the manual valve lever is pushing against a spring to give the lever detent positioning. I would weld on an arm from the outside, but too much heat will fry the seal.
          Thanks for the info, so do you feel it is a FMX (if so it should be fine), or other transmission?
          I am hoping not to replace the arm now if possible, but need to confirm, before I fill fluid (needed before I can start car).
          It does have spring pressure as pushed down & back (different from what I remembered on another Stude).




          Adding linkage to the small remainder may be tight needing L shape with it pointing to the pan.
          It looks like Edelbrock sells a kit used with carb replacement
          We are sorry, but the page you are looking for cannot be found. If you have any questions or can't find what you are looking for, please contact us . About Us Customer Service Resources How To's References


          I can also do a pressure check per manual with a gauge. That might tell me if it's going to burn up, or just downshift?

          Thanks,

          James



          The Bell Collection
          Bellingham, WA.
          Bells Studebaker Diner & Museum
          Bellingham, WA.

          Comment


          • #6
            It doesn't look like an FMX to me more like an FX or MX, Does it have a modulator or not? All FMX have a modulator on the driver's side sticking out of the back of the main case. Fmx were made from 68-82. It looks like possibly somebody welded that shift arm on to make it compatible with a floor shift. Instead of centered at twelve o'clock, they were centered at seven o'clock for column shift. The kickdown may have been turned 180 degrees. Why does it have to be an FMX for you to be happy? Also, you might try using a stock ford kickdown.

            Comment


            • #7
              It doesn't have a modulator, or the big knob on valve body that FMX would have (no Fomoco on vallve body either).
              It looks to me like it's the original 57 transmission that has the shift arm and kick down clocked opposit for the floor shift as you mentioned.
              The shift arm should move from 7 - 5 O Clock and the kick down from 1 - 11 O Clock (Counterclockwise).
              It's exactly flipped !
              The kick down linkage can't push 7 - 5 O Clock, it needs to Pull It (from top).
              It looks like I'll need to get a new arm and flip them around with some different shift linkage.
              I won't worry about driving and manually shifting for awhile, but it will probably only hold 1st then shift right to drive when I shift, or start in second and quickly shift to drive on its own. I will find out soon enough.

              Thanks!

              James Bell



              The Bell Collection
              Bellingham, WA.
              Bells Studebaker Diner & Museum
              Bellingham, WA.

              Comment


              • #8
                To my knowledge, I had an FMX transmission in my 1958 Edsel and that was stock. It was converted to a stick shifter even though it was still an automatic, because the Teletouch push button motor was burned out. I'm trying to remember that transmission, its been years now. It used to kick down at idle, and I wasn't sure whether that was normal operation or not. How long they made FMX type transmissions after that, I'm not quite sure.

                1951 Commander Land cruiser

                Comment

                Working...
                X