floor pan replacement

[Johnny]

I have a 1950 Champion that I'm redoing. The driver side floor board has holes clear through, the passenger side isn't bad, but would be best to replace.

I bought por 15 floor pan repair, but my dad kept telling me not to do it. One place online wanted about $255 per side for the replacement pans (over $500 for the pair).

Today I stumbled upon a place online and ordered some. The total with shipping came to $145. It was for both the driver and passenger side. Has anybody installed these panels from Classic2Current (c2cfabrication.com)?

http://c2cfabrication.com/store/images/ffp_studebaker_47-52.gif

1950 Studebaker Champion 2dr sedan.

[Henry Votel]

Hi Johnny,

Replacement panels are all just mild steel with some embossing for rigidity. None from anybody ever fits exactly. Easiest I have found is to template the cut out and then locate the best fitting spot on the new panel.

Mark the patch on the new panel. Then oversize if you are riveting or spot welding. If you are butt welding cut a little oversize and trim tight. All in all it's all going to be the same metal work job.

Don't worry.....just do it. You've saved some money.

Henry Votel,
Forest Lake, MN
Moderator: Editors & Publishers Forum

[tim87114]

Johnny,
Thanks for the post. I need to do the same on my 48. Let me know when they show up, I'm going to set aside some money to order some too. I can't believe that price! That is too cool.

[jimmijim8]

They are probably universal like fitting a bit but better than nothing. Looks like they may also fit a 1956 Dodge pickup. Like said previously, some of them are not a direct drop in fit. Best ones I have seen are Hawk and coupe model floors from Leroy Carey. He is from Amelia Virginia. Carys Fabricating. I don't know what other models he does. Perhaps someone here knows and could also provide contact information. jimmijim

[tim87114]

Yea, you're better than nothing. I think if someone is up for replacing a floor pan they better understand that it's a loose term . I was starting to just look for an entire cabin instead of replacing the floor and trunk. My car also has rust around the door channels. So I have a bunch of pieces to start making

[TX Rebel]

Anyone serious about doing a restoration should be grateful that Classic & Carey have the correct floor panels available. You could never make them yourself for the price you will pay for good panels, and you will save on labor, not to mention having a job that is correctly done. I would as soon use POR 15 & fiberglass or my own patches as use any universal fit type repair panels.

Barry'd in Studes

[Deaf Mute]

Make sure that body is bolted to the frame... OR SOMETHING... to keep it straight BEFORE cutting out the old and welding in the new. The more temporary straps, rods, or whatever you can add BEFORE you cut out the old; the better the job. When you are putting the car back together and doors, fenders, etc do not fit; one can probably look back to a bad floor pan installation!

duane miller

[sweetolbob]

Duane is right about keeping the body geometry. If you plan to remove the body from the frame, brace the heck out of the body to keep it from moving. Otherwise the doors will never fit correctly without serious work.

Bob

[jclary]

If you are merely repairing holes in floor pans, body integrity should not be compromised. It is when you have issues involving major support areas, such as door posts, that the problem gets dicey and the skill required increases. Care should be taken not to "torque" or twist the body once removed from the frame. I have used a combination of rivets and tech screws to hold repair panels securely for welding. When I was selling spray booths, I had a ready supply of sheet metal from the fab shop. There is also a "weldable" sealant that auto assemblers use in their "under-body" departments that withstands the heat of welding but I have never seen it offered to the public. Once I install a patch in a floor, I use a pliable undercoat (doesn't get hard and brittle like the old stuff) topside and underside for an airtight seal.
Good luck with your project. Try to avoid disturbing the critical areas of original dimensions and structure as much as possible. Work when its fun and take a break when its not. Keep us updated about your project. We are eager to see the results.

John Clary
Greer, SC

I have only two limitations ...BRAINS & ENERGY
SDC member since 1975

[tim87114]

Hey Johnny you get the floor pans yet?

[Johnny]

Yes, I got the floor pans... partially due to good neighbors. The vendor sent them correctly, but the mail man delivered them to somebody who lives a few blocks down. Luckily they were honest (I'm assuming they had no use for what was in the box if they even knew what it was) and delivered them to me.

The pans look nice. We were going to start last night, but didn't. I got the 220 line hooked up with the correct plug to work with my Dad's welder and he brought it over. Sometime this month, hopefully, we will start on it. I'll definitely take pics and post them if you'd like.

John

1950 Studebaker Champion 2dr sedan.

[tim87114]

Sweet, I'm going to order a set then.

[Doug M]

Let us know how they fit I need them for my 51 Commander coupe Doug M

[Radsman]

Having never even attempted to do replacement floors and such and hearing that the replacements never fit dead-on, do ya usually drill holes or such, in the originals as reference points prior to making the templates and then transferring this template info onto the replacements prior to cutting them out for the butt welding, spot welding and such? Sorry for the remedial question.

[imported_mrogers]

Johnny, I'm about to order the same floor pans from c2cfabrication. Can you tell me how they worked out? Thanks, Mark (mrogers22@cfl.rr.com)

Mark Rogers