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6 Volt Heater blower motors?

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  • 6 Volt Heater blower motors?

    Has anyone found a decent replacement for 6V heater fan blower motors for 1947-52 Champions? I searched the site and found a thread about defroster motors, but they are smaller diameter than the heater motor (long attaching screws are 2 1/4" apart, 1/4" mainshaft diameter) on my 1950 Champion.
    I also need to understand the "A" (fan) knob. It has three positions: in (off), middle, full out. In my car, the heater fan motor comes on in the middle position, but goes off when the knob is full out. Is the fan supposed to have two speeds? Is full out heater and defroster blowers? Whats right?
    Any advice is appreciated.

    1950 Champion 4 Dr.
    Holdrege NE
    John
    1950 Champion
    W-3 4 Dr. Sedan
    Holdrege NE

  • #2
    The middle position is high speed, all the way out is low. It's either running so quietly you can't hear it, or the motor is so weak it won't run on low speed. It helps to have the engine running fast enough to produce + reading on the ammeter.


    Dwain G.
    Restorations by Skip Towne

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    • #3
      There were 2 good threads on defroster motors I remember. One was from me, and I got a 12V replacement(what I wanted) by searching grainger.com. I beleive the other solution was a Napa replacement motor.
      So you could try both sources and search for a close fit. I have the "other" (heater) climatizer motor from my 52 Champion on a shelf here, I am not going to use it. Let me know if you want it, but I cannot promise it's any good. Removed from the non-running car over 10 years ago now.

      Dan
      52 hardtop

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      • #4
        Michidan
        How did you know that you found the right motor from Grainger? What RPM range is a fan motor supposed to have?

        1950 Champion 4 Dr.
        Holdrege NE
        John
        1950 Champion
        W-3 4 Dr. Sedan
        Holdrege NE

        Comment


        • #5
          I did not know the RPM range, and no one here could come up with it. For 26 dollars I bought it anyway becasue it was very close on the external dimensions. All I had to do was shorten the 2 mounting studs a bit, and also grind a flat on the output shaft for the set screw.
          It is installed now. Although my car has NO wiring at all still, I hooked my 12V battery charger up to the motor leads. It blows great air.
          This is where ignorance is bliss I guess. I have no idea if its proper rpm, etc, etc. But it seemed fine to me! For the limited use it will see its fine. Probably I will add a rheostat switch to control voltage to it. Again, no original wiring is left and I can do what i want.
          Had I been more concerned about getting it right, I could have done some maintenance on the oringal motor and reinstalled it with a 12V stepdown resistor.

          Dan
          52 hardtop

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          • #6
            Lothar,

            Assuming it's really NOT running in "LOW", it's GOTTA be the switch's fault. And this might well be fixed by simply repairing (cleaning contacts and connections) of the switch itself.[^]

            Miscreant Studebaker nut in California's central valley.

            1957 Transtar 1/2ton
            1960 Larkvertible V8
            1958 Provincial wagon
            1953 Commander coupe
            1957 President two door

            No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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            • #7
              Michidan
              Thanks for the tip about Grainger supply. They have every electric motor known to man! I ordered one that I think will work for me.
              Mr. Biggs
              How do I clean my light switch? Just blow the dirt out, or can it be disassembled?

              1950 Champion 4 Dr.
              Holdrege NE
              John
              1950 Champion
              W-3 4 Dr. Sedan
              Holdrege NE

              Comment

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