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Thread: 6 Volt Heater blower motors?

  1. #1
    President Member Lothar's Avatar
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    6 Volt Heater blower motors?

    Has anyone found a decent replacement for 6V heater fan blower motors for 1947-52 Champions? I searched the site and found a thread about defroster motors, but they are smaller diameter than the heater motor (long attaching screws are 2 1/4" apart, 1/4" mainshaft diameter) on my 1950 Champion.
    I also need to understand the "A" (fan) knob. It has three positions: in (off), middle, full out. In my car, the heater fan motor comes on in the middle position, but goes off when the knob is full out. Is the fan supposed to have two speeds? Is full out heater and defroster blowers? Whats right?
    Any advice is appreciated.

    1950 Champion 4 Dr.
    Holdrege NE
    John
    1950 Champion
    W-3 4 Dr. Sedan
    Holdrege NE

  2. #2
    President Member
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    The middle position is high speed, all the way out is low. It's either running so quietly you can't hear it, or the motor is so weak it won't run on low speed. It helps to have the engine running fast enough to produce + reading on the ammeter.


    Dwain G.

  3. #3
    President Member Michidan's Avatar
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    There were 2 good threads on defroster motors I remember. One was from me, and I got a 12V replacement(what I wanted) by searching grainger.com. I beleive the other solution was a Napa replacement motor.
    So you could try both sources and search for a close fit. I have the "other" (heater) climatizer motor from my 52 Champion on a shelf here, I am not going to use it. Let me know if you want it, but I cannot promise it's any good. Removed from the non-running car over 10 years ago now.

    Dan
    52 hardtop
    www.studebakerhardtop.com

  4. #4
    President Member Lothar's Avatar
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    Michidan
    How did you know that you found the right motor from Grainger? What RPM range is a fan motor supposed to have?

    1950 Champion 4 Dr.
    Holdrege NE

  5. #5
    President Member Michidan's Avatar
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    I did not know the RPM range, and no one here could come up with it. For 26 dollars I bought it anyway becasue it was very close on the external dimensions. All I had to do was shorten the 2 mounting studs a bit, and also grind a flat on the output shaft for the set screw.
    It is installed now. Although my car has NO wiring at all still, I hooked my 12V battery charger up to the motor leads. It blows great air.
    This is where ignorance is bliss I guess. I have no idea if its proper rpm, etc, etc. But it seemed fine to me! For the limited use it will see its fine. Probably I will add a rheostat switch to control voltage to it. Again, no original wiring is left and I can do what i want.
    Had I been more concerned about getting it right, I could have done some maintenance on the oringal motor and reinstalled it with a 12V stepdown resistor.

    Dan
    52 hardtop
    www.studebakerhardtop.com

  6. #6
    Golden Hawk Member Roscomacaw's Avatar
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    Lothar,

    Assuming it's really NOT running in "LOW", it's GOTTA be the switch's fault. And this might well be fixed by simply repairing (cleaning contacts and connections) of the switch itself.[^]

    Miscreant Studebaker nut in California's central valley.

    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
    1960 Larkvertible V8
    1958 Provincial wagon
    1953 Commander coupe
    1957 President two door


  7. #7
    President Member Lothar's Avatar
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    Michidan
    Thanks for the tip about Grainger supply. They have every electric motor known to man! I ordered one that I think will work for me.
    Mr. Biggs
    How do I clean my light switch? Just blow the dirt out, or can it be disassembled?

    1950 Champion 4 Dr.
    Holdrege NE

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