1962 lark wiring harness needed

[jukebox]

My 62 Studebaker Lark 6 cyl automatic was running great and used as a daily driver til the front wiring harness decided to burn up. am looking for a front wiring harness for the car...the wires coming out of the firewall are ok til about 12 inches out of the firewall then the meltdown starts...looked like the short started in the voltage regulator area.I need the harness for under the hood area. Any help pointing me in the right direction would be of great assistance!! Thanks in advance, Scott in Florida

[Chucks Stude]

Any of our fine vendors have wiring harnesses. I redid my Hawk, and it helped bunches.

[StudeRich]

All of us Studebaker Vendors at: studebakervendors.com have the main chassis harness, it is all one piece, all the way from the Generator to the dash.

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

[52 Ragtop]

Try SASCo, they had one for my 62 V-8

Jim

[Swifster]

I've said this before and caught grief for it, but...

Get a complete harness from Ron Francis, or other hot rod harness vendor. The original style harness is just one step from a major melt down. I always hear how there is nothing wrong with a Studebaker wiring harness and it's always in a thread about someones car burning a harness. There's a reason no one uses inline fuses in new cars today. A fuse panel is much safer. OK, off my soap box and waiting for the rotten produce to head my way.

I ordered a Centech harness for the Daytona.

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Tom - Mulberry, FL

1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2125.60)

[bams50]

quote:Originally posted by Swifster


Get a complete harness from Ron Francis, or other hot rod harness vendor.

I ordered a Centech harness for the Daytona.

I've thought some about an aftermarket harness for my Daytona. I'm going for a completely stock appearance, but doing updates for dependability reasons. And I'm sure an aftermarket harness can be made that much neater. I've seen harnesses like Painless in Street rods, but I'm betting it's a huge job to put an aftermarket harness in a car like a Daytona[xx(]

I bought a NOS harness from SASCO, but still am deciding which way to go.



Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

"Some people live for the rules, I live for exceptions"- 311

"With your Lark you're on your own, free as a bird, alive as a Lark. You've suddenly discovered that happiness is a thing called Larking!"

[Swifster]

quote:Originally posted by bams50

I've thought some about an aftermarket harness for my Daytona. I'm going for a completely stock appearance, but doing updates for dependability reasons. And I'm sure an aftermarket harness can be made that much neater. I've seen harnesses like Painless in Street rods, but I'm betting it's a huge job to put an aftermarket harness in a car like a Daytona[xx(]

I bought a NOS harness from SASCO, but still am deciding which way to go.

Bob, for appearence sake, I plan on merging a Studebaker harness under the hood to my aftermarket harness. While there might be a slight difference (firewall juction block), most of what's under the hood will look original. Everything under the dash will be modular, like having a wiring disconnect for the gauge cluster so the I can remove it with just one plug to disconnect.

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Tom - Mulberry, FL

1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2125.60)

[bams50]

Biggest thing I like about the NOS is you can unroll it and it will lay out with the ends where they need to go. Not so with aftermarket

If I go that way, I'll make the whole harness aftermarket... why merge two different harnesses?



Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

"Some people live for the rules, I live for exceptions"- 311

"With your Lark you're on your own, free as a bird, alive as a Lark. You've suddenly discovered that happiness is a thing called Larking!"

[Swifster]

Just for appearances. No more than that. I've done the wiring on my race cars so I'm comfortable with doing it. I'm just anal enough to what it to look like an OEM install. And just to be safe, I did keep the remains of my old harness for the connectors.

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Tom - Mulberry, FL

1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2125.60)

[StudeRich]

Bob; you do not need a ton of fuses, breakers and a fuse box to make a Studebaker harness safe, all you need is an in line fuse holder for one of those modern 2 legged plastic fuses with a 35 AMP fuse a couple of inches away from the solenoid, in the main power wire to the Ampmeter, or on Idiot light equipped cars, the Ign. Switch, to protect the whole car! [:0]

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

[bams50]

How are the various items fused- like the wipers, heater fan, etc.? I can't imagine these things don't have (or need) fuses in the event of them shorting out...





Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

"Some people live for the rules, I live for exceptions"- 311

"With your Lark you're on your own, free as a bird, alive as a Lark. You've suddenly discovered that happiness is a thing called Larking!"

[N8N]

if you use the original harness but this is not a show car I suggest adding some fusible links or high amp fuses at the generator (or alternator) and voltage regulator. I am using 80A fuses in my '55 because I'm running a 63A alternator. If something bad happens and you can remove all the sources of voltage from the entire harness you may be dead at the side of the road but at least your car won't be on fire.

And yes, even after JP's experience with the gold GT Hawk I put off doing that to my own car until I burned up the horn wire while working on it. This was the *second* time I'd repaired that harness too as the PO had removed the circuit breaker for the heater and defroster motors (whoops) and apparently one of them had seized or shorted (double whoops.) Sometimes you learn lessons the hard way.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight

http://members.cox.net/njnagel

[Chucks Stude]

The guy who put my harness in, asked if it was an aftermarket harness. I told him it was orig. He said "good, I'd have charged more to put in an aftermarket". They are just harder to make look and fit right. He has two Studes. Whipped it out in a couple of days.

[StudeRich]

Yes Bob you're right, the Headlight switch has a circuit breaker built in, as does the Wiper switch. The Fan switch has fuses, the Turn Sig.is fused, the stop lights are with Dome light fuse, the lighter has a fuse "nut" behind it, the radio has an in-line fuse. [^]

The ones you have to worry about are: ignition switch, ampmeter (if equipped) and the power feed from Gen. type voltage Regulator or from the Alternator and as Nate said the horn relay power wire, and as I said the main power feed from the Solenoid to the Ign. Sw. or Ampmeter is always hot and NOT fused!

quote:Originally posted by bams50

How are the various items fused- like the wipers, heater fan, etc.?

StudeRich -Studebakers Northwest Ferndale, WA

[Jeff T.]

Does SASCO still have 62 v8 wiring harnesses???? I thought they only had the rhd harnesses for 1962. If I am wrong I need one for my v8 conversion.

Jeff T.

"I'm getting nowhere as fast as I can"
The Replacements.