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Thread: fusible link

  1. #1
    Champion Member
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    fusible link

    Hi. 1956 Power Hawk V8. After reading a myriad of posts regarding 1 or 3 wire alternator installs, I think that I will stay with my generator. I'd like to know where to place a fusible link in my system to avoid a wiring meltdown. Perhaps at the "B" terminal of the VR.?
    Currently, the battery will drain significantly if left connected for 4 days. I have a .03 amp draw which I cannot locate. It's not enough to light a test light and there is no "spark" when I disconnect or re-connect the battery. I have replaced the battery but still encounter the same condition. There are no under hood / trunk or glove box lights on the car. The ammeter does not show any discernible draw. I will replace the VR and test again.
    Any ideas?
    Thanks, Bill G.

  2. #2
    Silver Hawk Member
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    A fusible link will not prevent the battery drain you are experiencing. And .03 amps is only 30 milliamps. At that rate of drain, it would take 3300 hours to drain a 100 amp-hour battery. The battery's self-discharge rate is likely greater than that.Does the car have a clock? That works? A working electromechanical clock will draw a brief pulse of current once or twice per minute, and zero between pulses. But a clock with burned-out points "might" draw a few milliamps constantly through closed, but burned points. But 30 milliamps to me sounds like a solid-state device of some kind, like a quartz clock, or else leakage current through decayed wire insulation, or maybe a bad stoplight switch.
    Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

  3. #3
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    VR might be the culprit. We have 56 Sky Hawk and have a battery diconnect switch on it. Prevents batt drain but it has a key in it so makes a theft deterent too. Some batteries when reaching end-of-life will self drain in a fairly short time. If you've another battt, stick it in and see if it runs down in a few days too. A clock will draw that much. I'd think that little bit would take a while to pull battery down to the point where it would not start car.

  4. #4
    President Member Dwain G.'s Avatar
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    The fuse link should go to the main terminal for the starter solenoid. Same terminal that holds the battery positive cable. Remove the red 12 gage ammeter wire from that terminal and splice it to the fuse link

  5. #5
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    Battery drain & fuse link

    Quote Originally Posted by gordr View Post
    A fusible link will not prevent the battery drain you are experiencing. And .03 amps is only 30 milliamps. At that rate of drain, it would take 3300 hours to drain a 100 amp-hour battery. The battery's self-discharge rate is likely greater than that.Does the car have a clock? That works? A working electromechanical clock will draw a brief pulse of current once or twice per minute, and zero between pulses. But a clock with burned-out points "might" draw a few milliamps constantly through closed, but burned points. But 30 milliamps to me sounds like a solid-state device of some kind, like a quartz clock, or else leakage current through decayed wire insulation, or maybe a bad stoplight switch.
    Thanks to all replies, Gord / Jeffry / Dwain. Amperage drain is minimal but drains none the less. Base model....No Clock / New Stop Light Switch / New Battery. I will fuse the RED wire at the solenoid. What about fusing the BLACK (Batt) wire at the VR?
    Thanks, Bill G.

  6. #6
    Silver Hawk Member
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    One fusible link, as per Dwain's advice is all you really need.
    Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

  7. #7
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    Disconnect the alternator then check for any discharge. I had a medium discharge on a Ford truck and a light spark when connecting to the battery. We disassembled the alternator and found some burned components in side. Also disconnect the starter and check for a stray ground. Look in the car at night for any strange lights. I had a glove box light on all the time but couldn't see it, I just happened to walk by at night and noticed it.

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