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Thread: Upper rubber bump stops

  1. #1
    Commander Member
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    Upper rubber bump stops

    On my 61 Hawk, there has been quite a lot of work done on the front end , steering & linkages etc., has no front shocks at the moment & no top bump stops fitted. I have some new bump stops , in the kit, but doesn’t look that straight forward to fit them, do you have to compress the front spring first? Also, seems to be a bit of slack in the steering box, it’s a Ross, is it difficult to adjust? Regards, Cus

  2. #2
    President Member RadioRoy's Avatar
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    The most likely cause of play in the steering is lost motion in the center bell crank, where the two tie rods come together. Before attacking the steering box, have an assistant rock the steering wheel back and forth. Grab the center bell crank with your hands and feel for vertical motion. Any vertical motion should be eliminated. Sometimes the bearings are bad, sometimes the shaft is worn, sometimes the pinch bolt is loose.

    Check this before attempting to adjust the steering box as it is easy to maladjust the steering box.
    RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

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  3. #3
    Golden Hawk Member StudeRich's Avatar
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    To install the 537461 Upper Jounce Bumpers, (the Triangle Rubber ones) just spread the bottom open with your fingers and clip them onto their bracket by hand, no tools required!
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner




  4. #4
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    At the moment there is no room between the mount for the rubbers & the underside of the control arm

  5. #5
    Golden Hawk Member StudeRich's Avatar
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    Sagged Springs?
    Jacking up the Frame should give you room.

  6. #6
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    I’ve tried all that, there’s something not right, the springs seem to long. The car has no engine at the moment, so not a lot of weight when when jacking, also no shocks, but wouldn’t think that would make much difference. Maybe wrong springs?DB1B92C1-F164-4AA9-A1AA-CB6F81701E94.jpgDB1B92C1-F164-4AA9-A1AA-CB6F81701E94.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #7
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    Be very careful messing with the front end without shocks installed - spring could jump out - doesn’t look right.

  8. #8
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    I use a piece of 5/8 all thread. A piece of 3/8 bar stock, hole drilled to 5/8. Drop the all thread through the top shock mount. A heavy washer and a nut on top. Put the bar stock on the bottom with a nut and tighten until upper A arm is up enough to install the bumper. When removing, be careful not to remove one of the nuts before spring is unloaded.

  9. #9
    President Member bensherb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DieselJim View Post
    I use a piece of 5/8 all thread. A piece of 3/8 bar stock, hole drilled to 5/8. Drop the all thread through the top shock mount. A heavy washer and a nut on top. Put the bar stock on the bottom with a nut and tighten until upper A arm is up enough to install the bumper. When removing, be careful not to remove one of the nuts before spring is unloaded.
    Drill a 5/8" hole in a 3/8" bar? I think you have your 3's and 5's reversed.

  10. #10
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    Both springs are still seated top & bottom. The threaded rod idea to compress the springs is a good idea, once released there will be quite a bit of pressure on the bump rubbers though, I think even with the shocks in, shouldn’t there be a margarine between the bump & arm , even at rest?

  11. #11
    Speedster Member
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    Those springs are not going to compress at all until the engine is in. Don't bother with the threaded rod --just wait til the car is assembled and you will be able to reach in and install the rubber bumpers with no difficulty. Also, I don't think I would bother to install the shocks till the engine is in. You will have a much easier task when the suspension is compressed a bit.

  12. #12
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    Ross, after going over everything, I agree, I’ll get it loaded up first , then re- asses

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by bensherb View Post
    Drill a 5/8" hole in a 3/8" bar? I think you have your 3's and 5's reversed.
    Drill a 5/8 hole in a 3/8 thick by 2 inches wide by 4 inches long bar stock. Or what ever you have in your supply.

  14. #14
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    Like the 61 Hawk, the subject of this thread, my '50 Chamion has no weight on the frame. I used the threaded rod, as suggested above, to remove the old deformed
    Upper Jounce Bumpers (Wow, it is only 8 am here and I have learned something new. Thanks, StudeRich!). With no weight, the new
    Upper Jounce Bumpers would also become deformed so I installed a couple wood blocks in their place, sort of a place holder, until the car is back to it's normal weight.
    Perry
    \'50 Business Champ,
    \'50 Starlight Champ,
    \'60 Lark Convertible,
    \'63 GT R1,
    \'67 Triumph TR4A

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