Results 1 to 23 of 23

Thread: 1957 studebaker commander

  1. #1
    Champion Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Redford mi
    Posts
    7

    1957 studebaker commander

    Hello everyone My name is James, very interesting to be able to join you all with my studebaker. I have a lot off plans for my old car and I’m currently in the market for buying parts for it if anyone could help. I went to the studebaker museum one weekend about three week ago and at the end of the tour i decided i needed a studebaker.

  2. #2
    Golden Hawk Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Wappingers Falls, New York, USA.
    Posts
    21,700
    Welcome to the wonderful world of Studebakers and the SDC Forum!
    I suggest joining the Studebaker Drivers Club. You can do it from this site. The March 2019 issue of their publication is a vendor issue. You will find that there are many vendors of new, used and repro parts. There are a few very large vendors and a mutitude of small vendors.
    If you now need some particular parts, there is a parts wanted section on this Forum that you can now use.
    Gary L.
    Wappinger, NY

    SDC member since 1968
    Studebaker enthusiast much longer

  3. #3
    Speedster Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    275
    Here is the link to the vendors

    http://www.studebakervendors.com/

  4. #4
    Champion Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Redford mi
    Posts
    7
    Yes i am a member of the drivers club i received it in the mail yesterday. Thanks for the parts list I’ll have a good time researching through out them all. Now off to search down a pair of tail lights.

  5. #5
    President Member Noxnabaker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    911
    No pictures = doesn't exist! Kinda...


    Josephine
    -55
    Champion V8
    4d sedan

  6. #6
    President Member Stude Shoo-wop!'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    West Palm Beach, FL
    Posts
    563
    Blog Entries
    1
    Best of luck to you as you Command America's roadways with ease and get curious stares from everyone you meet! I like S-P sedans for the most part, and your Commander is no exception. As Noxnabaker said, please post some pictures so we can get a better idea of what we are dealing with.
    Jake Kaywell: Shoo-wops and doo-wops galore to the background of some fine Studes. I'm eager and ready to go!

    1962 GT Hawk - completely finished in driveable condition.

  7. #7
    Champion Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Redford mi
    Posts
    7
    I added a photos on my profile i yet to understand how to post a photo here.

  8. #8
    President Member r1lark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Winston-Salem, NC, USA.
    Posts
    4,226
    Blog Entries
    36
    Here is one of MyCommanderWay's pics:


    You made a good choice, a '57 Commander will be a nice car to drive.
    Paul
    Winston-Salem, NC
    Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

  9. #9
    President Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Shorewood Illinois
    Posts
    1,514

  10. #10
    Champion Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Redford mi
    Posts
    7
    Where can I purchase rear brake hubs for the commander. My fronts are in good shape but the rear hubs are snug tight and the person removing them may possibly ruin them trying to remove them. I search every where i know but i can’t find them for sell. Rock auto as most of the parts needed but no Hubs. What should i do?

  11. #11
    Golden Hawk Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Wappingers Falls, New York, USA.
    Posts
    21,700
    Quote Originally Posted by MyCommanderWay View Post
    Where can I purchase rear brake hubs for the commander. My fronts are in good shape but the rear hubs are snug tight and the person removing them may possibly ruin them trying to remove them. I search every where i know but i can’t find them for sell. Rock auto as most of the parts needed but no Hubs. What should i do?
    They should be more than "snug tight". It takes the proper tool and proper application of it for removal without damage. You need a good size/substantial hub puller (NOT drum puller).
    In my more than half of a Century working on them, I have never destroyed a hub by removing it.
    Gary L.
    Wappinger, NY

    SDC member since 1968
    Studebaker enthusiast much longer

  12. #12
    President Member 62champ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Kentucky Bluegrass
    Posts
    3,119
    The hub puller will look like this. They might also be available on Rockauto as well.


  13. #13
    Commander Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Nashville TN
    Posts
    47
    I had to use one of those on mine, it also took a bit of heat and an air hammer to pop the drum loose... The air hammer was lightly applied to the bolt after tension was put on the hub to try and vibrate it loose. I thought for sure I would break something. I was fine applying heat as I was replacing everything with any rubber on it.

  14. #14
    Speedster Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Auburn Maine
    Posts
    156
    Studebakerparts.com has a puller available, you can even rent it with a deposit. Not like the one above but looks like it should work.

    https://www.studebakerparts.com/stud...age=tools.html

  15. #15
    Golden Hawk Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Wappingers Falls, New York, USA.
    Posts
    21,700
    The factory tool for removing hubs is different than either of those posted (12 & 14). I have used the Studebaker tool, but prefer and have mostly used ones like in post 12. Sometimes, besides tightening and hitting with a good sized hammer, waiting for hours helps.
    Gary L.
    Wappinger, NY

    SDC member since 1968
    Studebaker enthusiast much longer

  16. #16
    President Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Shorewood Illinois
    Posts
    1,514
    I’ve used the puller I rented from Advance Auto Parts on my 57 Commander, worked so well I bought it. Also used it on my 63 Hawk.

  17. #17
    Champion Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Redford mi
    Posts
    7
    Thanks everyone. I will be trying the tool tomorrow i gave it a rest for a couple days.

  18. #18
    Champion Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Redford mi
    Posts
    7
    Where can i buy the rear and front drums from beside Studebake international cause their pricing is high. Just looking for other places to purchase to save some money. Question are the studs and the drums as one or are they separate ?

  19. #19
    President Member 62champ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Kentucky Bluegrass
    Posts
    3,119
    Quote Originally Posted by MyCommanderWay View Post
    Where can i buy the rear and front drums from beside Studebake international cause their pricing is high. Just looking for other places to purchase to save some money. Question are the studs and the drums as one or are they separate ?
    There are plenty of good used drums out there - if your drums are not usable. The studs are pressed into the drums so they can be purchased separately.

  20. #20
    Champion Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Redford mi
    Posts
    7
    It’s so tough even speaking to someone about my car once i say studebaker everyone say go to the internet. Where would i start to look for Dum/Hubs. I need rear and fronts.

  21. #21
    President Member 62champ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Kentucky Bluegrass
    Posts
    3,119
    Those drum/hubs are basically the same from 1954-1966 on V8 cars with tapered axles. You can even find fined versions but the smooth sided ones will be more common. Is there a reason the old ones are not usable?

  22. #22
    Silver Hawk Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Seligman, Az USA.
    Posts
    5,072
    Whichever hub puller (on the rear) you use is fine, but first remove the axle nut & put it back on reversed, so the smooth side is flush with the axle shaft. this way it helps prevent the end of the axle from mushrooming. It also will prevent the hub (& drum assembly) from flying somewhere where it could cause damage or harm.

    The wheel studs are "swedged", that is they have a metal sleeve that is pressed onto the stud itself to keep the drum centered on the hub. Finding a shop that can still do this is becoming more difficult, so unless your drums are cut beyond the safe limit, keep them or purchase a used hub/drum assembly.
    59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
    60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
    61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
    62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
    62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
    62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
    63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
    63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
    64 Zip Van
    66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
    66 Cruiser V-8 auto

  23. #23
    President Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Right behind you
    Posts
    1,910
    I've always pulled hubs the easy way. Snug up the hub puller. Heat the hub hot enough to boil spit with a propane torch. Open a cold beer and sit on the porch. Before you finish the beer, you'll hear the hub pop loose.

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •