1957 studebaker commander

[tim333]

I’ve used the puller I rented from Advance Auto Parts on my 57 Commander, worked so well I bought it. Also used it on my 63 Hawk.

[MyCommanderWay]

Thanks everyone. I will be trying the tool tomorrow i gave it a rest for a couple days.

[MyCommanderWay]

Where can i buy the rear and front drums from beside Studebake international cause their pricing is high. Just looking for other places to purchase to save some money. Question are the studs and the drums as one or are they separate ?

[62champ]

Where can i buy the rear and front drums from beside Studebake international cause their pricing is high. Just looking for other places to purchase to save some money. Question are the studs and the drums as one or are they separate ?

There are plenty of good used drums out there - if your drums are not usable. The studs are pressed into the drums so they can be purchased separately.

[MyCommanderWay]

It’s so tough even speaking to someone about my car once i say studebaker everyone say go to the internet. Where would i start to look for Dum/Hubs. I need rear and fronts.

[62champ]

Those drum/hubs are basically the same from 1954-1966 on V8 cars with tapered axles. You can even find fined versions but the smooth sided ones will be more common. Is there a reason the old ones are not usable?

[Warren Webb]

Whichever hub puller (on the rear) you use is fine, but first remove the axle nut & put it back on reversed, so the smooth side is flush with the axle shaft. this way it helps prevent the end of the axle from mushrooming. It also will prevent the hub (& drum assembly) from flying somewhere where it could cause damage or harm.

The wheel studs are "swedged", that is they have a metal sleeve that is pressed onto the stud itself to keep the drum centered on the hub. Finding a shop that can still do this is becoming more difficult, so unless your drums are cut beyond the safe limit, keep them or purchase a used hub/drum assembly.

[jnormanh]

I've always pulled hubs the easy way. Snug up the hub puller. Heat the hub hot enough to boil spit with a propane torch. Open a cold beer and sit on the porch. Before you finish the beer, you'll hear the hub pop loose.

[MyCommanderWay]

Ok everyone i brought another studebaker, it’s and 1957 President, perfect car for parts i need. I drove all the way from Michigan to South Dakota. 16 hours there and back was so worth the trip and time looking for parts. However i never did find any replacement hub and drums so I’m adding disc brakes to the from. I haven’t found a set for the rear but if your holding information please tell me. By the way the rear-end from the president had a rebuilt rear-end that’s a plus. The motor isn’t running but it’s a automatic that i been wanting to convert the commander. I have my Plymouth three on tree and would like to just cruise a auto for a change. I will post pictures is the car on my page. I can’t post here through my cell phone

[tim333]

You need to give Bob Kapteyn a call for those drums.

[rkapteyn]

I want to add something to the job of pulling the rear drums.
Whatever puller you use , make sure to grease the jack screw.
Use a high pressure grease such as centerlube used by old time machinists to lubricate the fixed tailstock center.

https://www.amazon.com/Center-Saver-Waterproof-Lubricant-Milacron/product-reviews/B002QVZ7I6

[StudeRich]

I guess I just don't get it Bob.

Center Saver Waterproof Lubricant, Milacron ?????????

Is there something wrong with common, good 'Ol Wheel Bearing Grease?

I just never thought the WEAR on a seldom used Hub Puller screw was so critical.
I have never put ANYTHING on mine, and used it for years.

[rkapteyn]

The high pressure grease makes it easier to pull the drums.
Wheel bearing grease is fine but the high pressure grease protects the threads on the big puller bolt.
As mentioned before , when you tighten up the puller bolt and leave the tension on overnight you may find that the drum popped off in the morning.
.