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Thread: rear main seal

  1. #1
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    Question rear main seal

    I am into replacing the rear main seal in my 1960,289 for the third time.When I rebuilt in 2009,there were no leakage issues(it's so much easier to put one together on an engine stand).Due to some issues I had to go back in to the engine.The complete rebuild kit was from STUDEBAKER INTERNATIONAL,so I bought a rear seal and pan gasket from them.To say it leaked a little would be an understatement.Has anyone used Fel Pro seals(or some other brand) with good success? Is there a neoprene pan gasket available from any vendor? I have a shop manuel which I use religiously.This is not my first engine rebuild,but it is my first STUDEBAKER rebuild.Any advice would be appreciated.

  2. #2
    Golden Hawk Member StudeRich's Avatar
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    There ARE no other brands of Rear Main Seals, only a few NOS, Original Old Stock "Brummer" Seal Kits, did I mention OLD? These seem to me to be no better than the FelPro reproductions.

    No there are no Neoprene Pan Gaskets.

    It seems to be all about very carefully assembling the Main Seals, side Corks on the Main Cap, Pan Gasket Front and Rear Arch Gaskets and Timing Cover Gasket and Filler Block as one project to get it sealed perfectly, upside down of course.

    After about 10,000 Miles they usually drip a few drops, but nothing major.

    I have used both Permatex #2 and Form-A-Gasket RTV Black Silicone with the same results, but sealer IS a MUST.

    Most failures seem to be that pesky Rear Pan Arch Gasket, it MUST be fully seated into the Main Cap.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner




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    Over thirty years ago I rebuilt the engine in my 8 cyl Champ PU. I religiously followed the instructions in the shop manual. Now 30+ years later still no leaks.
    Is your leak from the pan gasket or rear main seal? Is your crank smooth where it turns against seal?
    If I remember correctly I used copious amounts of good ol' Permatex #2 on pan gasket (yeah I know it's "old technology" but it worked). I also used a NOS crank.

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    Way back when in my college student days, I had a part time job at the local Studebaker dealer - Courtesy Motors in Corvallis, Oregon. Whenever they did a rear main seal, they always installed a new rear main bearing. This to reduce the presence of oil at the rear seal due to normal wear of the main bearing. Being a dealer, he always had access to individual main bearings, and I recall you could buy individual main bearings from aftermarket sources, back then, also.

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    The crank surface is in good shape.I was curious because Rock Auto lists two seals(one I haven't heard of) I guess I'll go with the Fel Pro and get a pan gasket from a STUDEBAKER vendor. Thanks for the feedback.I plan to go to the International meet in September.Hope to see ya'll there.
    Marshall

  6. #6
    Golden Hawk Member StudeRich's Avatar
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    Found them! The "Other Parts/Gaskets Mfg./Seller at Rock Auto": Mahle. Apparently, they are somewhat into Racing/NASCAR etc.

    I also NEVER heard of these people, wondering WHERE their stuff is Made?

    MAHLE Aftermarket Inc.
    23030 MAHLE Drive
    Farmington Hills, MI 48335

    Phone: 248-347-9700
    Mail: aftermarket@mahle.com

    For $4.20 More than FelPro, you can get their JV1747 Studebaker V8 Main Seal or their Full Engine Gasket Set for a mere $30.00 More!

    These COULD be, just repackaged FelPro and Price bumped!

  7. #7
    President Member bensherb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StudeRich View Post
    Found them! The "Other Parts/Gaskets Mfg./Seller at Rock Auto": Mahle. Apparently, they are somewhat into Racing/NASCAR etc.

    I also NEVER heard of these people, wondering WHERE their stuff is Made?

    MAHLE Aftermarket Inc.
    23030 MAHLE Drive
    Farmington Hills, MI 48335

    Phone: 248-347-9700
    Mail: aftermarket@mahle.com

    For $4.20 More than FelPro, you can get their JV1747 Studebaker V8 Main Seal or their Full Engine Gasket Set for a mere $30.00 More!

    These COULD be, just repackaged FelPro and Price bumped!
    They make pistons, cylinders and other parts for air cooled VW. A very common name in the VW world.

  8. #8
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    Mahle is expanding their engine parts business - their gasket line is the former Victor brand.

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    Back in the day I worked for Dana Corporation in parts distribution. In addition to Perfect Circle rings, we carried the Victor line of gaskets. After all these years I still remember the head gasket numbers-1060 for the flat head six, 1100 for the V8 and 1168 for the OHV six. I've got a small pile of parts in the basement I need to go through. I've dragged them everywhere I've lived for over thirty years.......

  10. #10
    Golden Hawk Member StudeRich's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Studebakercenteroforegon View Post
    Mahle is expanding their engine parts business - their gasket line is the former Victor brand.
    That's interesting, since Victor has been out of business for decades!

  11. #11
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    Victor is still around as Victor-Reinz!


    Mahle makes lots of engine parts. Bought Dana engine parts.

    https://www.mahle-aftermarket.com/na...vices/gaskets/

    OK, further research shows Victor-Reinz became part of Dana, who then.....

    Mahle it is!
    Last edited by Frank DuVal; 02-06-2019 at 01:05 AM.
    Frank DuVal

    50 Commander 4 door

  12. #12
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    On the procedure to use,when installing the rear main seal-I have seen on this forum a suggestion to turn the seal from the level position.Any ideas on that?
    Marshall

  13. #13
    Golden Hawk Member StudeRich's Avatar
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    Yes I have done it one time on my '54 Commander Land Cruiser 232 V8, and it worked fine.
    However I have also installed them the correct way and also had good results.

    No harm in doing that, it did work very well just carefully install the tiny side Seals and Main Brg. Side Corks properly.

    The original Brummer Seals I used had the side Seals loose and round, not square and attached to one half seal like later versions of both Brands had later, I did this in 1969.

  14. #14
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    Just an FYI, there is a TW photo shoot of the new 59' Lark Police fleet for the city of South Bend. I vaguely remember Mr(s). Newman and/or Altman posing with 3-4 of these cars and maybe the chief. Brand new cars showed the obligatory oil patches under the engines. That confirmed to me that these era engines were developed to leak after some early operation. Now that oil prices are north of $4./qt. its a bit more perplexing.

  15. #15
    President Member Xcalibur's Avatar
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    StuderRich said it all.

  16. #16
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    Either way you choose to install the seal a dab of sealer on the end of the seal is a good bet. I have done them the offset way for years with good results. In my case a leaky rear main has always been something else leaking(Knock on Wood). Luck Doofus, yes that's my screen name.

  17. #17
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    Yes, proper installation is the first requirement.

    No, it's not a guarantee there will be no leaks if the engine has combustion blow-by and thus pressure in the crankcase pushing the oil out past the seal.

    Maybe, every rebuild should have best-science cylinder wall finish; i.e. a precision honing with diamond stones. The rings seating and sealing against round and straight cylinder walls keeps combustion pressure out of the crankcase.

    jack vines
    PackardV8

  18. #18
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    You can still get excess crankcase pressure if your breather cap is plugged. I had a 6 that leaked every where. I replaced several gaskets and the leaking was just as bad, I couldn't stop it. I was just checking things one day and lifted the breather cap off and the engine pitch changed and the telltale smoke from the vent tube stopped. When I replaced the cap the engine was chugging a little bit different and the smoke from the vent pipe reappeared. At the time I wasn't sure of the cause until I looked at the breather cap and it was plugged solid. After cleaning the breather cap it was like a new engine smooth and responsive (for a small 6 that is). So often we go down the wrong road chasing shadows, I have done it many times, even experienced service people suffer from the same thing from time to time. It is not usually a great loss to them because the customer pays. I took my car back to a service shop 4 times for an aledged O2 sensor when all the time it was the fuel pressure regulator. They got head strong on that issue and would not budge until I got heavy with them and forced then to look a little deeper in to the problem, they were then so proud that they found the problem. This wasn't a Mom and Pop shop it was a large dealership.

  19. #19
    President Member BRUCESTUDE's Avatar
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    I've given up; my last 2 V8 rebuilds developed the dreaded rear engine oil leak, not much, but still, drips suck. I suspect the fact that I trimmed that stupid arch gasket, not much but there was no way it fit, even with the engine upside down on a stand! Anyway, I now use a "diaper": 2 wadded up paper shop towels jammed between the oil pan and bell housing, which I change out every so often. I know it's hokey, but it prevents drips (not leaks) and the 259 sure purrs so I don't sweat it!

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