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Thread: C/K trunk weatherstrip problem

  1. #1
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    C/K trunk weatherstrip problem

    My painter/body shop is trying to install a new trunk weather strip from S.I. When the rubber weather strip is placed in the channel in the body, the "flap" portion is visible in the gap between the trunk lid and the body. The problem is the car is light yellow, and the black rubber really shows. The situation is the worst in the gap at the front of the trunk lid where it meets the body under the "backlight". The gaps were set with a paint stick, about 3/16ths of an inch. Is this a common problem, or are we doing something wrong?

  2. #2
    President Member Lou Van Anne's Avatar
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    Typical on many GT Hawk deck lids....
    Lou Van Anne
    62 Champ
    64 R2 GT Hawk
    79 Avanti II

  3. #3
    President Member tsenecal's Avatar
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    I agree with Lou. I had the same problem on a 60 Hawk, but my paint color didn't show it as bad as your light yellow. I discovered mine after it was too late to do anything very radical about the gaps.

  4. #4
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    The trunk lid rubber available now is more "foam like" than the original more solid rubber and on some Studebakers it will not seal the trunk.

  5. #5
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    I just moved the deck lid all the way forward, and it looks as good as stock, and my car is white.

  6. #6
    President Member bensherb's Avatar
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    If your deck lid fits at the rear bumper and corners with only a 3/16" gap at the window you should be happy. It fits better than the deck of any I've had or seen.

  7. #7
    Golden Hawk Member StudeRich's Avatar
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    Welcome to the SDC and to the SDC Forum Don!

    If the Side Gaps are a problem, you could have poor Fender to Body Fit from a prior wreck, causing too wide a gap at the sides of the Decklid.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner




  8. #8
    President Member swvalcon's Avatar
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    StudeRich. On the hawks the trunk fits into the body shell and the rear fenders are bolted on where the upper mldg runs. Every one I've seen had bad gaps and the design of the area around the weatherstrip is a piss poor design. I can see why they all leak water. Once the water gets between the weatherstrip and the bodyshell there's not really anywhere for it to go with ease other than into the trunk if it can. Studebaker ran the rubber right out to the edge of the opening with no rail gutter of any kind for the water to collect and run back out.

  9. #9
    Golden Hawk Member StudeRich's Avatar
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    Yes, I am aware of what you say, that explains why the Channel around the Opening is Rusted Out almost always.

    They could have had a Sun Visor paper Cover that said: "Do NOT Wash this Car with Water ever!"
    Just wait until SomeDay, when someone invents a Dry Car Wash!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by StudeRich View Post
    Yes, I am aware of what you say, that explains why the Channel around the Opening is Rusted Out almost always.

    They could have had a Sun Visor paper Cover that said: "Do NOT Wash this Car with Water ever!"
    Just wait until SomeDay, when someone invents a Dry Car Wash!
    I wash my cars with water once or twice per year. Other than that I use waterless systems such as Kozak and DWG.

    EDIT: Of course this does not prevent the water of rain and snow. My cars stay in a climate controlled garage, but they do go out as needed/desired.
    Gary L.
    Wappinger, NY

    SDC member since 1968
    Studebaker enthusiast much longer

  11. #11
    President Member 345 DeSoto's Avatar
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    Knowing about this problem from listening to others, I stripped of all the paint and primer from mine. I had no holes or rust. I painted on a heavy coat of POR 15 then applies a good coat of 2 part epoxy primer over that. This week the paint went on. Ill fitting (poorly designed) trunk sealing gasket shouldn't be a problem...

  12. #12
    President Member jbwhttail's Avatar
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    C/K trunk weatherstrip problem

    I too have the same issue with a bad gap on the right side of the trunk on our 1964 GT. from the top passenger side of the trunk the gap is 1/8" at the bottom corner it is almost 3/8". And no the car was never in a rear collision. My body shop is going to correct the problem by splitting the rear inner quarter and correcting the gap, welding it back with some new metal. Pain in the butt but, at least the gaps will be uniform.
    Last edited by jbwhttail; 01-23-2019 at 11:44 AM. Reason: incorrect year
    It is an addiction!

  13. #13
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    Always got a kick out of "climate controlled garage." Mary's big shop building is climate controlled, where temperature and humidity are controlled by the climate. Luckily around here temp seldom gets below about 44 degrees inside. Not picking on Gary, as I've also used the term on occasion. It kind of goes along with the term "frame off" restoration. Also bad gaps, actually the gaps are good, they're just in the wrong places. How about split rims, or two tone paint jobs. Tone is not a color, nor are the rims split. Excuse the whimsy must have gotten up on the wrong side of the bed, the right side.

  14. #14
    President Member E. Davis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by studegary View Post
    I wash my cars with water once or twice per year. Other than that I use waterless systems such as Kozak and DWG.

    EDIT: Of course this does not prevent the water of rain and snow. My cars stay in a climate controlled garage, but they do go out as needed/desired.
    I have washed my Hawk with water one time and that was when I bought it ten years ago. I clean it after use with liquid wax and try to never drive it in the rain. And no, its not a daily driver.

  15. #15
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    I may be wrong but I thought I heard somewhere that the trunk rubber is secured to the trunk itself and not to the body channel, that will leave the channel open to divert water. I am going through the same issue and I glued the rubber to the channel and it does not fit right, I have removed it and I will be trying on the lid itself.

  16. #16
    President Member Jerry Forrester's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by altair View Post
    I may be wrong but I thought I heard somewhere that the trunk rubber is secured to the trunk itself and not to the body channel, that will leave the channel open to divert water. I am going through the same issue and I glued the rubber to the channel and it does not fit right, I have removed it and I will be trying on the lid itself.

    On the C-K's, the way the factory did it, the rubber goes in the channel on the body, NOT the trunk lid.

    But it's your car, you can do it any way you want.
    Jerry Forrester
    Forrester's Chrome
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    See all of Buttercup's pictures at https://imgur.com/a/tBjGzTk


  17. #17
    President Member tsenecal's Avatar
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    Not to be a stickler, but I'm guessing that Garys climate controlled shop actually has the "climate" controlled by adding heat or cool air. A frame off restoration is when you take the frame off of the body, to clean and paint it. And the old Firestone widowmakers actually split in half, down the center of the rim, leaving two pieces, each with an outer bead.

  18. #18
    President Member 55coupe's Avatar
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    I have a 55 coupe and the weather strip has always been visible on the top edge of the trunk lid.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by tsenecal View Post
    Not to be a stickler, but I'm guessing that Garys climate controlled shop actually has the "climate" controlled by adding heat or cool air. A frame off restoration is when you take the frame off of the body, to clean and paint it. And the old Firestone widowmakers actually split in half, down the center of the rim, leaving two pieces, each with an outer bead.
    Yes, my climate controlled garages do have a variation, but not like a free standing garage sitting out by itself with no heat or A/C added. My garages stay between 55 degrees F and 75 degrees F, even when it is below zero F outside, like yesterday, or 100 above F.
    Gary L.
    Wappinger, NY

    SDC member since 1968
    Studebaker enthusiast much longer

  20. #20
    President Member WinM1895's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StudeRich View Post
    Just wait until SomeDay, when someone invents a Dry Car Wash!
    It exists, Armor-All makes it, Wal-Mart and etc sells it.

    The genuine Studebaker weatherstrip didn't fit worth a damn. I installed one I got from F&F on my 62V-K6 and it leaked worse than the original that was 10 years old.

  21. #21
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    My panel beater wasn't happy with the gap between the boot and the body. It was like they were on a different curvature. He got around the issue by freeing the inner body brace (located in the body) and moving the body to a higher more appropriate spot before rewelding . The curves matched and the fit is excellent. It still leaks but at least it looks good . With all the new types of rubber profiles around I'm sure there would be one that does a better job than the stock rubber.
    pb

  22. #22
    President Member swvalcon's Avatar
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    As near as i can tell the reason for the water leak is the rubber fits in the channel on the body and come right out to the body side edge of the trunk opening. Then the trunk closes on that to make the seal. That is if it fits nice and tight all the way around. which most don't. Any water can still get between the trunk lid though the gap area but once there has no where to go as Studebaker didn't think that far ahead. All it can do is run around the rubber until it finds a place to go which most times is into the trunk.

  23. #23
    Golden Hawk Member DEEPNHOCK's Avatar
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    Just did a trunk lid dance with a '59 Hawk.
    Hinges were shot. Replaced them with NOS hinges.
    Amazing difference.
    Trunk lid still fit like crap with the thick foamy like weatherstrip pushing it up too high.
    Took it out and spent quite a bit of time getting the trunk lid adjusted properly.
    Took a disk sander and removed some of the base of the foam weatherstrip all the way around.
    Put it all back in and everything fit like new.
    Happy with the result. Took way too long to get happy with that project.
    HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

    Jeff


    Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



    Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

  24. #24
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    Not sure you can keep them from leaking. It is a poor design. That is why so many Hawks have rusty or absent trunk floors. All one can do is climb inside with a supply of shims and with the help of a trusty assistant keep adjusting 'til no light shines into the trunk. There is no other way and if you can avoid the use of too many explitives and buy him a beer , your assistant might let you out. Weather strip has to show; the hardest part is the top front. If you gap it too close, you will chip the paint. If it is too far it will leak. The center part often doesn't quite seal up and needs tweaking. And when you wash the car, the last step should be to open the trunk and dry it!

  25. #25
    Speedster Member
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    There is another source for trunk weatherstrip - Believe it is "Soft Seal" (anyone know for sure??). It is much softer than the original and replacement Stude' seal but does NOT have the formed upper corners like the original. No idea as to if it is any better at sealing.

    paultk

  26. #26
    President Member 345 DeSoto's Avatar
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    Trunk #1.jpgThis will be hard to believe but the trunk floor and weather strip channel in my Sky Hawk were rust free...with the original weather strip...which is still soft and pliable...Scout's Honor.
    Last edited by 345 DeSoto; 02-11-2019 at 08:41 PM.

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    DeSoto : I'm sure Ripley's museum has a spot reseved for you!

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