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Thread: Freeze plug install assistance UPDATE

  1. #1
    Speedster Member
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    Freeze plug install assistance UPDATE

    Before I get carried away with the others, is this plug in too far?
    IMG_2182.jpgIMG_2183.jpg
    I was able to borrow a tool but did not have much luck using it on the bent shaft supplied with it. Had better luck with a piece of wood to get in started and then inserted the adapter (sans shaft) and tapped until it was flush with the block. Thoughts?

    IMG_2186.jpg New plug installed and no leaks after a couple of days. Ended up using the shellac. Thanks again for all the suggestions and advice.
    Thanks,
    Brett
    Last edited by Photoguy; 01-14-2019 at 08:25 PM.

  2. #2
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    I normally prefer a little shallower, so the edge of the plug is flush with the chamfer in the block. Did you used any sealer ?

  3. #3
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    I'm with Dan. I have used whatever fits to get them started, usually a socket, and then finished with a piece of moderately thin hardwood to get them flush. Never had one fail. The secret is getting the hole CLEAN and SMOOTH and starting them straight. I use red thread seal and give them a day to set before I add fluid. The plug has always locked in for me. There is a second style of plug that was used where the hole has a lip on the inside rim but it doesn't look like you need to worry about it for your application.

  4. #4
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    I did use some RTV on the edge. I”ll try and do the remaining a little shallower. I’ll let it set and refill with water to see how it does. Thanks for the help.

  5. #5
    Golden Hawk Member StudeRich's Avatar
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    On the rest of them, I would use Permatex Gasket Sealer #2, and make them flush, the Silicone may be too slippery allowing the plug to go too deep.

    This must be a Late '62 to '64 V8, or a Six?
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner




  6. #6
    President Member (S)'s Avatar
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    The most important thing above all else is that they should go in with some resistance. If they pop right in, they can pop right out!

  7. #7
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    It’s a six - 51 Champion. Yes, there was resistance going in that’s why I couldn’t the tool to work correctly. It wouldn’t seat at all just kept popping out. I’ll try and make sure the others a more flush. Thanks

  8. #8
    President Member RadioRoy's Avatar
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    Is it worth re-doing this one with the proper sealer and a fresh new plug? I think so.

    It might seem like a hassle now, but it will be a much bigger hassle if this one comes out while driving somewhere away from home.
    Last edited by RadioRoy; 01-06-2019 at 01:53 PM.
    RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

    17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
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  9. #9
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    Pop it out and replace with new one with proper sealer. #1 or#2 Permatex. As sure as you don't, every time you get away from home you will think about that plug and get very nervous.

    Can not enjoy the drive like that.

  10. #10
    Silver Hawk Member bezhawk's Avatar
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    81IAPrOWi7L._SL1500_.jpgI always use indian head gasket schellac on core plugs. anything else is usually too slippery.
    Bez Auto Alchemy
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    http://bezautoalchemy.com


    "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

  11. #11
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    Just recently replaced the dished freeze plugs on my Hawk and used this.


    Unlike silicone sealer, it does set.

    https://www.reliableplant.com/Read/2...-threadlockers

  12. #12
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    DSC00208.JPGDSC00209.JPGDSC00210.JPGDSC00211.JPGThis isn't for the purists but I made a custom freeze plug that will not rot out in my lifetime, lead, stainless steel and rubber O ring. I cut the big washer on the lines and insert into the hole and turn it 90 then squeeze it up tight. They all hold good and don't leak.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by altair View Post
    DSC00208.JPGDSC00209.JPGDSC00210.JPGDSC00211.JPGThis isn't for the purists but I made a custom freeze plug that will not rot out in my lifetime, lead, stainless steel and rubber O ring. I cut the big washer on the lines and insert into the hole and turn it 90 then squeeze it up tight. They all hold good and don't leak.
    This is pretty much how a block heater installs except you don't have the element part. Most corroded plugs I have replaced are corroded because they had dirt/crud lined against the plug in the hole. Just sayin'...

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