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Thread: Problem with repair shop and oil pan gasket replacement

  1. #1
    Champion Member
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    Unhappy Problem with repair shop and oil pan gasket replacement

    I sent my 48 Champion (stock) out for a brake job and a leaky oil pan gasket. The brakes are done, however, I've been informed that the oil pan gasket replacement is a "big difficult job". They've had the car four months! Any insight and recommendations would be appreciated.

  2. #2
    President Member RadioRoy's Avatar
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    Sounds like they do not want to do it. Forcing them to do it will most likely result in a poor job. Also, letting it sit there is a good way to get scratches on the car. Your best bet is to pay for the brakes and take the car home. Then look for another shop to replace the pan gasket.
    RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

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  3. #3
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    You must have the patience of Job. Hopefully they did your brakes properly. I would have pulled my car out of there months ago. A good way to find competent mechanics is word of mouth. Ask fellow SDC members for a recommendation. Also, besides a pan gasket you probably also need crankshaft seals. Good luck and Happy New Year.

  4. #4
    President Member 345 DeSoto's Avatar
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    What Radio Roy said...

  5. #5
    President Member rusty65's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 345 DeSoto View Post
    What Radio Roy said...
    Times two!! I have a similar situation with my (new to me)'60 Lark.My mechanic has done tons of work on my Daytona but for some reason they've dragging their feet on this one.I'm going to his shop after New Years and have a one-on-one with him to see what's (or what's not)happening.

  6. #6
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    The pan gasket can be somewhat intimidating if you haven't done one for a while. There is about half a dozen different processes. The few I have done I used four long bolts in each corner and hang the pan on them, as you slowly bring it up the end corks can be fitted in place along with the rail corks, then it is just a matter of slowly bringing the bolts up until the regular pan bolts can be used. To avoid the risk of any warping longer bolts can be used evenly along the pan rails until it is home. To avoid the risk of the rail gasket moving it can be tied with thread.

  7. #7
    Speedster Member
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    Shop manual page 69, says the engine has to be removed from the chassis to remove the oil pan 1947-1949 Champion and Commander

  8. #8
    President Member tsenecal's Avatar
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    If the engine needs to be removed, that definitely makes it a "big, difficult job", but the shop should have either done the work, or declined the job, and returned the car to the owner.

  9. #9
    President Member nvonada's Avatar
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    The engine had to come out on my 41 to do it. I was quite surprised. The good news is pulling a Champ engine is not THAT bad.
    Nathan

  10. #10
    Silver Hawk Member
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    Ditto again to those above. Get your car outa there today.
    sals54

  11. #11
    President Member
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    why can't you just partially drop the pan, clean it up and put the gasket in? should you have to completely drop it?

  12. #12
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    Ted PM sent , Ed

  13. #13
    President Member hausdok's Avatar
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    Months?!

    Sounds like your "mechanic" can't tell the difference between his bum and a hole in the ground.

    Never done one on your particular make/model of car, but I have had cases where a shop manual said I'd need to pull an engine and all I did was disconnect the exhaust from the headers, put a jack under the bell housing, pull one motor mount, lift the engine a little and then work the pan out of there, scrape off the old gasket and reverse procedure to put the new one in. Sometimes when I did that, I'd also need to drop a steering center leak and/or drain the radiator and unhook the top radiator hose to avoid stretching/tearing that hose.

    I'm not saying that can be done on your car for a fact - only that I managed to find a workaround and do it that way on some cars where the manual said to pull the engine. Sometimes it just couldn't be done that way - in which case I'd wasted time getting to the point of jacking up the motor only to find out that I had been too smart for my britches and still couldn't gain enough clearance to get the pan off. The Service Manager was never very happy with me when I'd do that. Oh well, you wins some and you loses some.
    Mike O'Handley, Cat Herder Third Class
    Kenmore, Washington
    hausdok@msn.com

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  14. #14
    President Member
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    I removed the oil pan from a GM vehicle I had and the service manual said to have the engine on TDC on #1, I could not see the relationship this had to do with removing the pan until I tried to do it. With the crank shaft throw down at the bottom the pan would not clear to slide it rearward. Some how I turned the crank about 1/2 a revolution and the pan slid right out. It pays to trust the manual.

  15. #15
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    Its an easier job to pull engine, If rear main seal is replaced engine plate needs to come off. Like working on a table instead of over head. Jacking engine up is bad way to go.

  16. #16
    Golden Hawk Member
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    I am wondering why you want to replace the pan gasket. More than likely, if you have a lot of leakage, it is coming from somewhere else. Unless it is overfilled with oil, there is no oil pressure on the pan gasket. Perhaps the gasket has just shrunk a bit over the years. I would try to snug, not tighten, the pan bolts. Do not go more than five or ten percent over the recommended torque value.
    Gary L.
    Wappinger, NY

    SDC member since 1968
    Studebaker enthusiast much longer

  17. #17
    Speedster Member
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    It seems older cars are too much for some modern "mechanics", watching some of the restore tv programs is funny, meltdowns because 8 cyl engine won't bolt into a 6 cyl, brake drums out of round etc. Perhaps your lucky they haven't started on pan job. I have found old engines sometimes pan fasteners are loose.

  18. #18
    President Member nvonada's Avatar
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    The 4-piece gasket was a real joy to install on the engine stand. I would hate to try that under the car with oil dripping and no room to work. On my 41 with the transverse front leaf spring there is a lot of metal in the way of getting that pan out...

    Nathan

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