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Thread: Turner dual MC, photo wanted

  1. #1
    Golden Hawk Member
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    Turner dual MC, photo wanted

    Could someone who has installed a Turner dual MC kit onto a 47-52 car please post a photo of the finished installation? I’m having a hard time figuring out how the actuating rod that goes from the pedal to the MC piston is supposed to line up with the dual MC shifted further to the right than original. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    President Member fatboylust's Avatar
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    Not mine but I think it is as Turner intended it to be.
    20171027_123223.jpg

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    Here are pics from below of the installation pictured above. It's pretty tight in there. Do these help?
    20181007_093349.jpg20181007_093404.jpg20181007_093131.jpg20181007_093151.jpg20181007_093037.jpg
    3H-C5 "The Blue Goose"


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    Quote Originally Posted by gjamesk View Post
    Here are pics from below of the installation pictured above. It's pretty tight in there. Do these help?
    Yes!! That helps a lot. Thank you. Now that I can see what the setup is supposed to look like, I see what I'm missing.

    What sort of pin did you use to connect the brake pedal to the MC pushrod? There's nothing in the kit that I purchased, and the original pin is too short. I really appreciate your help.



    Last edited by mbstude; 10-07-2018 at 04:32 PM.

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    Matthew, I picked up that clevis pin at my local Ace Hardware. I don't remember the size, but it had several holes so was a variable length. I used the appropriate hole and ground the end down to fit for length. Like this:
    Clevis.jpg
    Agreed that the kit is not plug & play, took quite a bit of fiddling and thought to get it done but I'm happy with it now.
    3H-C5 "The Blue Goose"


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    Thanks Garry, I'll try my local Ace. It's obvious now that I see how it's supposed to go together, but not so much when pieces are missing and the instructions aren't very clear. Thanks again!

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    No problem. Let me know if I can help further.
    3H-C5 "The Blue Goose"


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    President Member BRUCESTUDE's Avatar
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    Matt- On my '60 Lark the supplied pin wouldn't work; the rod was way off center. I made a new one using a grade 8 bolt , washers, and lock nuts.IMG_4614.jpg

  9. #9
    Golden Hawk Member StudeRich's Avatar
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    One look at this difficult to maintain, Repair and Replace mess, reaffirms my position of leaving the well engineered Factory Single M/C that works VERY well alone!

    The one in 5000 or more owners who did not pay attention to the puddle under the M/C or the spongy or Low Pedal, and had an "Incident" does NOT worry me.

    Dual Master Cyl.jpg
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner




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    Thanks Bruce, nice to see another solution to a similar problem. In my case, I’ve ordered a couple of different length grade 8 shoulder bolts to try out.

    Quote Originally Posted by StudeRich View Post
    One look at this difficult to maintain, Repair and Replace mess, reaffirms my position of leaving the well engineered Factory Single M/C that works VERY well alone!

    The one in 5000 or more owners who did not pay attention to the puddle under the M/C or the spongy or Low Pedal, and had an "Incident" does NOT worry me.
    Thanks you for such a helpful and informative response.

  11. #11
    Golden Hawk Member StudeRich's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mbstude View Post
    Cut/Thank you for such a helpful and informative response.
    It COULD BE, if anyone concerned about future maintenance cares!

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    President Member TWChamp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StudeRich View Post
    One look at this difficult to maintain, Repair and Replace mess, reaffirms my position of leaving the well engineered Factory Single M/C that works VERY well alone!

    The one in 5000 or more owners who did not pay attention to the puddle under the M/C or the spongy or Low Pedal, and had an "Incident" does NOT worry me.

    Dual Master Cyl.jpg
    I agree.
    I've never had a brake failure with any single piston master cylinder, but have had lines rust and pop on my later dual master cylinder cars. It wakes you up when the pedal suddenly goes almost to the floor and the car only slows to a stop. A dual master most likely won't keep you out of an accident if you drive the way I see most people drive. They race up to the stop light, then brake hard to a stop. If one side failed on the master, they would be into the rear of the car in front of them before they even knew what happened.

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    Quote Originally Posted by StudeRich View Post
    One look at this difficult to maintain, Repair and Replace mess...
    That's my “mess”. It was planned and executed with care and attention to detail. Maybe not your thing, but it's MY car and I plan to drive it for many trouble free miles. Someday when needed, the master cylinder can be swapped out in a few minutes.
    3H-C5 "The Blue Goose"


  14. #14
    Golden Hawk Member StudeRich's Avatar
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    Actually, I think it is very well, and neatly done.

    It is just too complicated and nothing I would EVER want to work on, or have on any of my under the Floor M/C Studes.

    The remote fill is a pain to install, but definitely better than the no access alternative.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by TWChamp View Post
    I agree.
    I've never had a brake failure with any single piston master cylinder, but have had lines rust and pop on my later dual master cylinder cars. It wakes you up when the pedal suddenly goes almost to the floor and the car only slows to a stop. A dual master most likely won't keep you out of an accident if you drive the way I see most people drive. They race up to the stop light, then brake hard to a stop. If one side failed on the master, they would be into the rear of the car in front of them before they even knew what happened.
    When I had my one failure, I was driving SLOW, which IMHO is the only way to drive a stock 2R5. It wasn't the master that failed, it was both the rear wheel cyls (NEW Stainless Sleeved). I never caught it. Now, I not only have a dual pot MC, but check the fluid every time.

  16. #16
    President Member bensherb's Avatar
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    The only master cylinder total failures I've had have been those masters under a floor. Three on Studebakers, one on a Chevy and one VW. They were all on vehicles that had set idle/unused for as little as 1 year and as much as 3 years. I've never had a firewall mounted master cylinder fail totally or without obvious warning; either single or dual. I think the under floor master cylinder tends to collect more water, usually being the lowest point in the system, rusting, damaging the piston and cups leading to a quick failure.

    Rebuilding or replacing the under floor master every 3 to 5 years seems to be standard proceedure, at least for us. One reason I plan to move the master on my GT up to the firewall. It also makes it easy to add a power booster. I'll also change it to a dual unit. Did this to our '53C decades ago, and have never had any trouble with it. You do need to move the battery though.

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