Could someone who has installed a Turner dual MC kit onto a 47-52 car please post a photo of the finished installation? I’m having a hard time figuring out how the actuating rod that goes from the pedal to the MC piston is supposed to line up with the dual MC shifted further to the right than original. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Turner dual MC, photo wanted
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Originally posted by gjamesk View PostHere are pics from below of the installation pictured above. It's pretty tight in there. Do these help?
What sort of pin did you use to connect the brake pedal to the MC pushrod? There's nothing in the kit that I purchased, and the original pin is too short. I really appreciate your help.
Last edited by mbstude; 10-07-2018, 01:32 PM.
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Matthew, I picked up that clevis pin at my local Ace Hardware. I don't remember the size, but it had several holes so was a variable length. I used the appropriate hole and ground the end down to fit for length. Like this:
Agreed that the kit is not plug & play, took quite a bit of fiddling and thought to get it done but I'm happy with it now.3H-C5 "The Blue Goose"
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One look at this difficult to maintain, Repair and Replace mess, reaffirms my position of leaving the well engineered Factory Single M/C that works VERY well alone!
The one in 5000 or more owners who did not pay attention to the puddle under the M/C or the spongy or Low Pedal, and had an "Incident" does NOT worry me.
StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
SDC Member Since 1967
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Thanks Bruce, nice to see another solution to a similar problem. In my case, I’ve ordered a couple of different length grade 8 shoulder bolts to try out.
Originally posted by StudeRich View PostOne look at this difficult to maintain, Repair and Replace mess, reaffirms my position of leaving the well engineered Factory Single M/C that works VERY well alone!
The one in 5000 or more owners who did not pay attention to the puddle under the M/C or the spongy or Low Pedal, and had an "Incident" does NOT worry me.
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Originally posted by StudeRich View PostOne look at this difficult to maintain, Repair and Replace mess, reaffirms my position of leaving the well engineered Factory Single M/C that works VERY well alone!
The one in 5000 or more owners who did not pay attention to the puddle under the M/C or the spongy or Low Pedal, and had an "Incident" does NOT worry me.
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I've never had a brake failure with any single piston master cylinder, but have had lines rust and pop on my later dual master cylinder cars. It wakes you up when the pedal suddenly goes almost to the floor and the car only slows to a stop. A dual master most likely won't keep you out of an accident if you drive the way I see most people drive. They race up to the stop light, then brake hard to a stop. If one side failed on the master, they would be into the rear of the car in front of them before they even knew what happened.
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Originally posted by StudeRich View PostOne look at this difficult to maintain, Repair and Replace mess...3H-C5 "The Blue Goose"
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Actually, I think it is very well, and neatly done.
It is just too complicated and nothing I would EVER want to work on, or have on any of my under the Floor M/C Studes.
The remote fill is a pain to install, but definitely better than the no access alternative.StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
SDC Member Since 1967
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Originally posted by TWChamp View PostI agree.
I've never had a brake failure with any single piston master cylinder, but have had lines rust and pop on my later dual master cylinder cars. It wakes you up when the pedal suddenly goes almost to the floor and the car only slows to a stop. A dual master most likely won't keep you out of an accident if you drive the way I see most people drive. They race up to the stop light, then brake hard to a stop. If one side failed on the master, they would be into the rear of the car in front of them before they even knew what happened.
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