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Thread: Hawk rear leaf spring bushings - Where to buy? Interchange?

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    Hawk rear leaf spring bushings - Where to buy? Interchange?

    Where can I get the rear shackle spring bushings for 1962 Studebaker Hawk? All leads appreciated. email: riokie@gmail.com or PM. Thank you, chet445

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    Golden Hawk Member DEEPNHOCK's Avatar
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    HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

    Jeff




    Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

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    President Member r1lark's Avatar
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    Paul
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    Golden Hawk Member StudeRich's Avatar
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    Here are More of the Studebaker Vendors: http://studebakervendors.com

    All of them and more, keep these Rear Spring Eye and Frame Bushings in stock.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner




  5. #5
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    To indicate they are not available on the open market - my best customer for leaf spring bushings is Oregon Auto Spring in Portland. So, as noted, go to the established Studebaker parts suppliers. These parts are not that expensive.

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    I just ordered a complete set (front and rear bushings) from Danny at Stephen Allen’s, the cost was about $70.00 plus shipping.
    Mike Kelly
    Regional Manager
    Texas
    1963 Lark Cruiser
    1962 GT Hawk
    1965 Commander 2dr v8 auto

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    The best and cheapest rear bushings I've used on my 54 Coupe were from an early Jeep. I cut the bushings so I could use one and a half bushings per eye. I buy the urethane bushings to keep it tight.
    Now then, I believe the later Hawks have a larger eye diameter on the front of the spring. But I can't remember when it changed.
    sals54

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    President Member bensherb's Avatar
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    I made these from "Delrin" and 3/8" plate to replace them in my '62.
    20160610_144031.jpg

    I see the stock bushings as a very poor design offering no lateral support to the shackel assembly and very little vibration damping. With very little wear or looseness in the shackel bolts the entire assembly will "Z" allowing the axle to shift under the car. The stock bushing only contacts the shackel with the end of a .060" wall tube that is easilly deformed. The bushings I made use a .090" wall steel tube as well as a 1.5" diameter Delrin thrust bushing that won't allow any lateral movement. They totally stopped the wallowing of the rear end, it tracks like it's on rails now.

    Attachment 75750stock assembly is on the right.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Bensherb, I did not realize the rear end would move laterally using the standard bushings. I already have purchased standards however what is cost of your setup. Thanks, Chet

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by bensherb View Post
    I made these from "Delrin" and 3/8" plate to replace them in my '62.
    20160610_144031.jpg

    I see the stock bushings as a very poor design offering no lateral support to the shackel assembly and very little vibration damping. With very little wear or looseness in the shackel bolts the entire assembly will "Z" allowing the axle to shift under the car. The stock bushing only contacts the shackel with the end of a .060" wall tube that is easilly deformed. The bushings I made use a .090" wall steel tube as well as a 1.5" diameter Delrin thrust bushing that won't allow any lateral movement. They totally stopped the wallowing of the rear end, it tracks like it's on rails now.

    Attachment 75750stock assembly is on the right.
    That looks like a great setup. I also use washers to "make up" the gap between the bushing and the flange, up font. And used larger shackles, like yours in the rear. It makes a HUGE difference.
    sals54

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    President Member Xcalibur's Avatar
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    I made my own from delrin many years ago. Made them greasible and they worked great.

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    President Member bensherb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chet445 View Post
    Bensherb, I did not realize the rear end would move laterally using the standard bushings. I already have purchased standards however what is cost of your setup. Thanks, Chet
    I don't produce it for sale Chet, but I believe similar bushings are available. I just wanted to show how I addressed the poor stock design.

    The stock bushing only offers 5/32" (0.156") of rubber for vibration damping and it's really hard rubber so there's not much to curb vibration there. My Delrin bushings are harder than rubber but I notice no difference and they work great. Sal's urethane bushings likely offer more vibration damping than either Delrin or stock, but the main thing is to eliminate the possibility of lateral movement in the shackel. As Sal did, a thick washer filling the space between the shackel plates and the spring/frame should do it. Delrin, urethane or even alluminum would better for a washer than steel as it won't squeak. Thicker shackel plates with holes that fit the bolts tightly help a lot too. Another approach would be to weld bars between the two shackel plates making an "H" of them, but there just isn't sufficient room without replacing the shacels with very long ones and raising the rear of the car. (my shackels are a bit longer than stock)

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    Quote Originally Posted by chet445 View Post
    Bensherb, I did not realize the rear end would move laterally using the standard bushings. I already have purchased standards however what is cost of your setup. Thanks, Chet
    No need to overthink rear spring bushings. The standard replacement bushings will serve you well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Studebakercenteroforegon View Post
    No need to overthink rear spring bushings. The standard replacement bushings will serve you well.
    And by the time you’re done with the project you’ll wish you’d never noticed there was a problem. Getting the old bushings out of the frame can be one of the worst chores on a Stude

    Jack Vines
    PackardV8

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    I agree with Jack, getting the bushings out of the frame was a real chore and I had the body off. Let us know how you did it and what you thought. Cheers

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    President Member wdills's Avatar
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    Amen on the removal being tough.
    Wayne
    "Trying to shed my CASO ways"


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    President Member bensherb's Avatar
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    It wasn't as bad as I expected. I pushed out the inner tube, then pushed out the rubber, then drove a punch between the outer tube and frame to fold the tube in on it's self and slid it right out. The ones that were in better shape I just drove out with a couple washers, nuts, a piece of all thread and a large socket.

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    President Member TX Rebel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chet445 View Post
    Where can I get the rear shackle spring bushings for 1962 Studebaker Hawk? All leads appreciated. email: riokie@gmail.com or PM. Thank you, chet445
    Chet, Don't forget that you have a friend in the Studebaker parts biz just south of you in Houston.
    Barry'd in Studes

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    Let me hear some removal methods for an Avanti ( body on)
    64 GT Hawk (K7)
    1970 Avanti (R3)

  20. #20
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    Just so we don’t panic everyone - a lot of times the bushings in the frame are in far better shape than the bushings in the rear of the spring. Thus replacing the easy to access bushings in the spring only will be a big improvement.

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    For those who wanted to know how I removed the shackle bushing from the car.
    Getting the spring loose at the front did not present a problem; I just took off the nut and worked out the bolt. I'm pretty sure all the spring bushings are original. Anyway the shackle the back had no bushing and was held by a 7/16" #8 bolt (source of my extreme rattle in back of car) only the outer shell of bushing and it was rust frozen in place. I used a right angle 1/2" drill with step drill bit to get in as far as I could then an appropriate size drill bit to finish removing the rusted in shell of the bushing. I then applied some "slickem" to the new bushing and gently forced it into place. Time consuming it was but not difficult.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 64V-K7 View Post
    Let me hear some removal methods for an Avanti ( body on)
    The only way I know to get them out is to punch out the inner and use a chisel and hammer on the outer from the spare wheel side. Took most of the day. No room for air chisel.

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    Well now you have learned a new way to get the bushing out when it is frozen solid in the frame. Took a little over an hour for both sides with body still on the frame. Hopefully you won't need to do it again. I'm sure you can beat them out provided the outer case of bushing is not frozen to the frame by rust.

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