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Thread: Solved-Need help with the accelerator-to-governor control linkage

  1. #1
    Speedster Member Charlie D's Avatar
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    Solved-Need help with the accelerator-to-governor control linkage

    (1/9/19 - As usual, the problem was me but at least it's fixed. If you are interested in what I did wrong see today's post)

    I tried to set it per the shop manual but it appears to be a little off. The DG250-M up shifts to intermediate drive at 10-20 mph with no problem. As the car continues to accelerate at some point it feels as if the tranny wants to lock up in the direct drive. At that point all I have to do is lift my foot off the accelerator pedal and it goes ahead and locks up.

    I will be under the car tomorrow installing a rebuilt starter and thought I could tinker with the control linkage while it is jacked up. I am hoping that someone who reads this post has had the same symptoms and can remember if the linkage was shortened or lengthened to help the tranny go ahead and shift into direct drive. It will be blessing to me to at least beat the 50/50 odds of moving it in the right direction to start with.

    I have not tried it often but if I floor board it the tranny does not downshift in order to accelerate. It does accelerate pretty well but I think there is supposed to be a downshift at less than 55mph or so. I appreciate any wisdom and knowledge you guy can throw my way on this issue.

    Thank you,
    Charlie D.
    Last edited by Charlie D; 01-10-2019 at 01:26 AM.

  2. #2
    President Member RadioRoy's Avatar
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    Model and year of car? Truck? Engine size?
    RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

    17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
    10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
    10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
    4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
    5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
    56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
    60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

  3. #3
    Speedster Member Charlie D's Avatar
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    I am sorry for the omission. 1955 President State Sedan. 259 c.i.
    Charlie D.

  4. #4
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    To get it to shift later you need to shorten the rod from the carb, as it pulls forward to shift later and kick down. Lou

  5. #5
    President Member RadioRoy's Avatar
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    There was a Q&A about this same/similar symptom in the latest Turning Wheels, IIRC.
    RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

    17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
    10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
    10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
    4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
    5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
    56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
    60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

  6. #6
    Speedster Member Charlie D's Avatar
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    I shortened it by three turns and may leave it alone

    Thank you gentlemen for your responses. Before taking the car to fill up with real gas I shortened the linkage by three turns. It evidently wasn't enough because I generally have to lift my foot momentarily off the gas for it to lock up in 3rd gear. I was thinking on the way home that I may leave it alone and continue to control myself when it shifts into 3rd gear. I forgot to do that one time on the way home and it did it on its own at 50mph. I am also second guessing whether or not I want to use the kick down feature. I floor boarded it once at 50mph and it accelerated briskly without the kick down.

    I do not know how hard it is on an automatic to go through the kick down procedure but I do not want to hurt the transmission. When I bought the car back in '83 the young lady told me the old one had gone out and she had recently had an NOS transmission installed. I did not get any documentation so it may or may not have been true. If so, the transmission only has a few thousand miles on it. It shifts smoother and quieter the more miles I put on it. I have put less than 2,000 miles on it since I bought it in '83. It pretty well set for years until I got around to restoring it.

    Charlie D.

    100_1205.jpg

  7. #7
    Speedster Member Charlie D's Avatar
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    Linkage finally set a lot closer. It had to be shortened over ½”

    Now you will know the rest of the story. Obviously I had adjusted the linkage wrong in the first place. Per the ’53-58 parts catalog only the ’55 President and Commander V-8s had an actuating “spring” going from the bell crank to the carburetor. The others of that time period used a rod.

    I initially set the linkage per pages 44 & 45 of the Studebaker Automatic Drive chapter of the ’55 shop manual. I used the angle iron and hand brake technique as outlined. I did not pay enough attention to the sentence that read, “This is the point where any further movement of the accelerator pedal would only result in operating the overtravel spring.” I forced the pedal all the way to the floor. I then went under the car and set the linkage ball joint to where it matched up with the governor lever where it met resistance of the detent. Being in the car and not paying any attention to what the spring was doing I thought this should nail the adjustment. Wrong!

    A week or so ago I was looking at the diagram on page 30 of the Gasoline System chapter and saw that it showed the adjustment all the way from the carburetor to the governor lever. I thought I would make sure the linkage was set up per the shop manual. I got to the step that says “Depress and hold the accelerator pedal in the wide open position without extending the spring… and then make sure the ball joint matches up to the governor lever.” Since this time I was operating the “accelerator pedal” from the top of the bell crank in the engine compartment I realized there was still more travel left in the spring. Duh, this must have been the “overtravel spring” referred to on pages 44 & 45 above.

    A small piece of board was wedged in the bell crank to hold the spring at its furthest position without stretching. I think this was basically doing the same thing as the angle iron and hand brake. When the ball joint was removed from the governor lever it had to be shortened 15 turns to match up. My only defense of being so naïve about the spring overtravel is that I have only used the bell crank to speed the engine up while it was running and I never came close to getting to the point of stretching the spring.

    I drove the car to fill up with gas and it shifted on its own without any lifting of the throttle, etc. I was anxious to see if it had a kick down to passing gear but did not want to shell the tranny. I waited until I was almost home (less distance to tow) and floor boarded it at about 45 mph. It kicked down and the engine roared. More rpm than it has ever seen. I don’t think I want to do that again but it is nice to know it is available in case it is ever needed.

    Over the past 8 ½ years or so while restoring the car I have tried to share many of my successes. I have also fessed up to most of my failures so that maybe if someone else was tinkering with the same situation it could help them. That’s what you get when an accountant takes on a ’55 Studebaker.

    Charlie D.

  8. #8
    President Member wdills's Avatar
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    Charlie,
    Glad to hear to got it figured out. I am still tinkering with the 54 commander we bought last year. That spring in the throttle linkage still makes me scratch my head. If I ever get the thing to accelerate off idle like it should, I will go through the procedure you described to make sure the Trans is shifting as it should.
    Wayne
    "Trying to shed my CASO ways"


  9. #9
    President Member tsenecal's Avatar
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    Happy to hear that it's working, and thanks for sharing the solution. When the weather gets better here, I need to do sme adjustments to mine as well.

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