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Thread: Retired and ready to work new project

  1. #41
    Silver Hawk Member
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    Jan 2008
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    Bay City, Mi., USA.
    Posts
    7,149
    Quote Originally Posted by wdsj View Post
    Looking for any advice on body panel and body removal. Do's and don'ts.

    I am basically a gear head. Mechanical stuff I can generally figure out. But body work is not my forte; it's is learned skill (with some art mixed in) I don't have. I will have help putting it back together and taking it apart looks basic, but....

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    thanks
    For panel removal, you will need the shop manual, and go from there. I guess I don't think of body panel removal any different than engine removal. It's all mechanical.

    As far as body work, in this day and age, youtube has about anything covered you will want to do.

    I'm wrapping up my 74 Avanti currently and all of the mechanical, body work and paint was done by me. As I look at the finished product, I can see a few flaws and areas that I can improve but that's why I paint with Acrylic Enamel.

    So it's not perfect but it's kinda nice and I can say that I did it myself. My Dad and Grandfathers had to do everything because they couldn't afford to buy things so their creativity was evident in the fabrications they left behind. If they f'ed it up they redid it until it worked.

    My hope is they are looking down saying he ain't that good but he sure tried his butt off. It's always possible until proven undo-able.

    Bob
    , ,

  2. #42
    Golden Hawk Member jclary's Avatar
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    Dec 2008
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    Greer, sc, USA.
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    10,309
    From my casual observation, you are blessed with a solid car that does not appear to need a lot of body reconstruction. Being a gearhead, in my opinion, is an asset toward learning bodywork. At some point, all of it involves mechanical understanding. My suggestion is to take your time to evaluate your project and determine what really needs attention and things that will be better left alone. For example, why remove a panel if it fits well, is not rusted, or distorted? Even on today's assembly lines, there are body specialists trained to do nothing but tweak panels for "fit & finish." Back when our vehicles were built, fenders, doors, and body panel molds were much less exact. Sometimes they were damaged, dinged, or distorted in the process of just getting to the assembly line. Often, the "fit" guys would shim, hammer, or even bend pieces to fit. If you remove a panel, or door, etc., make sure all washers, and shims are kept and noted as to place and sequence.

    In my younger days, I found it easy to criticize the work of others. After doing my own bodywork, and extensive restoration, I believe I have gained enough first-hand knowledge to evaluate good and bad bodywork. However, now that I am older (hopefully wiser), my compassion makes me reluctant to criticize the honest best effort of my fellow hobbyists. For your project, be patient, do your best, and take your time. For the bodywork/paint/upholstery, you might seek out and find someone willing to allow you to provide a little "sweat equity," like sanding, body filler, and shooting a primer coat, and let them shoot the final finish after approving your prep work. That was how I worked out some of the tasks that were above my skill level.

    Whatever you do, take notes, and pictures. Don't throw parts in a pile and think you will remember where they went. When possible, put bolts, washers, & parts back in the holes they came from, even if the parts they held are not there. You will not lose the fender to pillar fasteners if they are still in the A-pillar. And, you won't be able to put the fender back on 'till you take them out to reinstall the fender. One of my favorite tools for my restoration projects has been a chair. That is where I take the time to sit, contemplate, and plan my next step needing to be done. Works wonders!

    Good luck, and thanks for sharing your project with us. I hope we can provide encouragement for your labor.
    John Clary
    Greer, SC
    [IMG][/IMG]
    SDC member since 1975

  3. #43
    Speedster Member
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    Oct 2007
    Location
    NorthEast, MS
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    Quote Originally Posted by RDWEAVER View Post
    I can remember when I did mine that the Philips head oval screws that held the door hinges to the post were the worst. I soaked them and soaked them tried heating them and finally drilled the ones that did not come out. then I had to replace some of the caged square nuts on the door post. The replacement screws in oval head are hard to find. I used longer ones and had to cut/grind them to the right length. Mine took two years and that was the fast track for me. My wife and I spent almost all of the spare time we had on the car. But we were not retired and did all of it after work and on weekends. You will be challenged I can assure you, but don't get discouraged because when you get it done the work you went through for this will be worth it. Good Luck and keep us all posted!
    Appreciate the encouragement and I have already been through the stuck hinge screws. Six of twelve came out, six would not. Drilled them all out successfully, however not so lucky on the front fender removal. Broke loose one of the cage nuts inside the front pillar; not sure how to fix that. Any way to reach without cutting a whole?

    Anything that needs to be braced before removing the body from the frame?

    Thanks
    Dell
    59 Silver Hawk
    62 GT Hawk

  4. #44
    Speedster Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    NorthEast, MS
    Posts
    170
    Quote Originally Posted by sweetolbob View Post
    For panel removal, you will need the shop manual, and go from there. I guess I don't think of body panel removal any different than engine removal. It's all mechanical.

    As far as body work, in this day and age, youtube has about anything covered you will want to do.

    I'm wrapping up my 74 Avanti currently and all of the mechanical, body work and paint was done by me. As I look at the finished product, I can see a few flaws and areas that I can improve but that's why I paint with Acrylic Enamel.

    So it's not perfect but it's kinda nice and I can say that I did it myself. My Dad and Grandfathers had to do everything because they couldn't afford to buy things so their creativity was evident in the fabrications they left behind. If they f'ed it up they redid it until it worked.

    My hope is they are looking down saying he ain't that good but he sure tried his butt off. It's always possible until proven undo-able.

    Bob
    Could not have expressed my feelings better.

    I appreciate the way you think.
    And isn't YouTube amazing?
    Dell
    59 Silver Hawk
    62 GT Hawk

  5. #45
    Speedster Member RDWEAVER's Avatar
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    Nov 2012
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
    366
    Quote Originally Posted by wdsj View Post
    Appreciate the encouragement and I have already been through the stuck hinge screws. Six of twelve came out, six would not. Drilled them all out successfully, however not so lucky on the front fender removal. Broke loose one of the cage nuts inside the front pillar; not sure how to fix that. Any way to reach without cutting a whole?

    Anything that needs to be braced before removing the body from the frame?

    Thanks
    Not really a good way to do it without cutting an access hole. The hole you cut will not be in plain sight... but if the metal is good it can be as good as new when finished. I had to cut mine to weld in new cage nuts. I had the toolroom guys at work make mine for me. They should really be caged nuts by the way. Otherwise the dimensions will need to be perfect to fit the hinge correctly. Countersunk screws only tighten up in one exact location. By the way, SI has the bolts but they were a little long IIRC. Not in the catalogue you have to call and ask for em.

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