Originally posted by Alan
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Buttercup's Hood Hinges
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Last edited by Jerry Forrester; 08-19-2018, 01:18 PM.Jerry Forrester
Forrester's Chrome
Douglasville, Georgia
See all of Buttercup's pictures at
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Originally posted by woodysrods View PostHi Jerry
I have the parts and hope to copy you installations if I ever get back to my Studebaker project.
Got side tracked about 6 years ago.
BrianJerry Forrester
Forrester's Chrome
Douglasville, Georgia
See all of Buttercup's pictures at
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Yes, I got sidetracked by Teardrop Trailers, then CycleKarts, and just this past week I bought an MGA project car??????
Currently I have 18 projects in progress???
Wife says it is time to set some priorities and sell the rest...........time is running out!
Oh.....I also bought a MGTF that I am enjoying driving at every opportunity.
Can't wait to get re inspired about my Studes.
Glad to see you are still building.
BrianBrian Woods
woodysrods@shaw.ca
1946 M Series (Shop Truck)
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Originally posted by Jerry Forrester View PostI think I'm going to add another cross bar. This one will be stationary and connect the two hinge mount plates that are welded onto the hood. There is a slight flexing of these plates when the hood is in the open position and you push the hood back and forth sideways. With the hood closed, I have 3- 4" clearance between the radiator cap and the hood and that is about where the cross bar will be. Of course, it'll follow the contour of the hood, so there should be no clearance problems.
Jerry Forrester
Forrester's Chrome
Douglasville, Georgia
See all of Buttercup's pictures at
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What is the advantage of the tilted radiator? Just wondering.... I think the first time I ever saw or heard of one was in 1980s corvette's as it allowed for a lower front on the hood? Here that would not be the case unless you are going to use a taller core than the stock one.
This hood mod should prevent the infamous Studebaker hook head wounds!! Sadly I have gotten a few myself on my own car. Duane Miller aka "deaf mute" sold some center mounted hood "poles" at the 2009 IM in IA that insert in the stock hood latch and clip onto the big spring bolt on the hood. These are intended for car shows so the wind won't rip the hood off in case of sudden storms at a show but I find it helps prevent knobs on the noggin too.
Jeff in ND
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[QUOTE=Jeff_H;1124017]What is the advantage of the tilted radiator?/QUOTE]
Now I will be able to have a radiator with a 22" tall core as opposed to the 14 1/2" that is the stock size for a '53-4-5 C-K. That's over a third larger.
The original radiator size is okay for a stock 259 but when you add AC it gets kind of iffy.Jerry Forrester
Forrester's Chrome
Douglasville, Georgia
See all of Buttercup's pictures at
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Originally posted by Colgate Studebaker View PostYou sure are a good engineer and fabricator (of car mods). Thanks, Bill.
I was watching AVE on youtube the other day and he used the term 'fabricobble'. I thought, "hey, that's me". I'm a fabricobbler. I can cobble more $hit together than any three professional fabricators.Last edited by Jerry Forrester; 09-19-2018, 05:12 PM.Jerry Forrester
Forrester's Chrome
Douglasville, Georgia
See all of Buttercup's pictures at
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Today was the day I have been dreading. Sandblasting the hood (I hate sand blasting). This hood is off Rusty Ralph, it has 3 or 4 small rust through pin holes at the very front and the rest of the hood is badly pitted, but no holes.
91 degrees, high humidity. What more could anyone ask for. I have a 10'X20' carport tent set up to work under and a large fan blowing on me, that helps.
I ran out of sand after getting a little more than half the hood done.
Had to make a quick trip to the sandblasting sand store.
I don't know much about sandblasting, maybe that's why I hate it so much. I used 300 pounds of 20-30 dried and graded sand on this one hood. Maybe I'm doing something wrong.
Oh yeah, I know what I did wrong. i DIDN'T HIRE SOMEONE THAT KNEW WHAT THEY WERE DOING TO DO IT.
No pix of the finished hood, but here is where I was when I ran out of sand.
Maybe more pix tomorrow.Jerry Forrester
Forrester's Chrome
Douglasville, Georgia
See all of Buttercup's pictures at
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What size is your orifice. No!! The one on the sandblaster. I have the same unit as you do but I don't remember using anywhere near that amount of sand on a hood.. My control is a simple ball valve with a carbide nozzle. I wonder if your nozzle has a larger orifice that may be allowing more volume with less striking force. I'll try to remember to dig my blaster out of the storage shed tomorrow and measure it.
I think my compressor delivers about 16 cfm at 90 PSI and I use about 100 PSI when I blast.
BobLast edited by sweetolbob; 09-19-2018, 06:54 PM.
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Originally posted by sweetolbob View PostWhat size is your orifice. No!! The one on the sandblaster. I have the same unit as you do but I don't remember using anywhere near that amount of sand on a hood.. My control is a simple ball valve with a carbide nozzle. I wonder if your nozzle has a larger orifice that may be allowing more volume with less striking force. I'll try to remember to dig my blaster out of the storage shed tomorrow and measure it.
I think my compressor delivers about 16 cfm at 90 PSI and I use about 100 PSI when I blast.
Bob
I don't know what size the orifice is.
I did slightly close the ball valve on the bottom of the tank and it seemed to be more economical as far as the sand usage,
Here's the hood after I finished the blasting and going over it with a DA W/80 grit in prep of the application of the DTAM primer to stop the rust until we can get to the metal repair.
Jerry Forrester
Forrester's Chrome
Douglasville, Georgia
See all of Buttercup's pictures at
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