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Thread: '51 Land Cruiser

  1. #1
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    '51 Land Cruiser

    I've mentioned in a couple of other threads that the Cade family has decided to downsize their collection. Having a soft spot for '51's, and not wanting to miss out on the chance of owning one of Dr. Cade's Studebakers.. I thought about it for a couple of weeks and decided that I needed the '51 Land Cruiser. This one will be a keeper.

    Doc bought the car in 1996 while at the SDC National Meet at the Queen Mary in Long Beach. They drove it home, and the following year it made the drive to the meet in South Bend. The seats were reupholstered, carpeting replaced, and air conditioning added.. But mostly it's been maintained as it was when purchased. The odometer is showing just shy of 63K miles. It was repainted some time long ago, otherwise it's an original car.

    I don't have too much planned, mostly mechanical upgrades and maintenance items. Diamond Back tires, Turner discs, and new wiring from Lark Works have all been ordered. It'll probably be a couple of months (after the heat wave breaks) before I do anything with the car, but I'm looking forward to jumping in.

    Best part? The AC works.







    Last edited by mbstude; 07-30-2018 at 06:38 PM.

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    President Member Jerry Forrester's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mbstude View Post
    This one will be a keeper.
    ]
    Yeah, riiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiight. I've heard that before.
    Jerry Forrester
    Forrester's Chrome
    Douglasville, Georgia

    See all of Buttercup's pictures at https://imgur.com/a/tBjGzTk


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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Forrester View Post
    Yeah, riiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiight. I've heard that before.
    Hey, get back to zip tying your shoes.

    There will probably be other cars that I buy and tinker with and sell. But it would be nice to have at least one that I hang onto.

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    President Member Jerry Forrester's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mbstude View Post
    Hey, get back to zip tying your shoes.

    There will probably be other cars that I buy and tinker with and sell. But it would be nice to have at least one that I hang onto.
    I know what you mean, Every car I build, I say the same thing.
    But this time I mean it. I'll never sell another Stude.
    Jerry Forrester
    Forrester's Chrome
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    See all of Buttercup's pictures at https://imgur.com/a/tBjGzTk


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    Golden Hawk Member rockne10's Avatar
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    Score Matt !!!
    I wish I hadn't got rid of the '50 Land Cruiser, but the '51 V-8 in a 119 wheel base will be a joy.
    I see it's still 6-volt, but with a Sanden 500 series and an early '60s evaporator. How did they rig that?

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    Quote Originally Posted by rockne10 View Post
    Score Matt !!!
    I wish I hadn't got rid of the '50 Land Cruiser, but the '51 V-8 in a 119 wheel base will be a joy.
    I see it's still 6-volt, but with a Sanden 500 series and an early '60s evaporator. How did they rig that?
    I think the compressor clutch was modified to operate on 6 volts, and the evaporator had 6 volt heater fan motors installed.

    Or it's just magic.

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    Golden Hawk Member jclary's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mbstude View Post
    I think the compressor clutch was modified to operate on 6 volts, and the evaporator had 6 volt heater fan motors installed.

    Or it's just magic.
    I'm curious about that too. I'm assuming that an air conditioner compressor clutch works from some kind of electromagnet principle. If that's the case, then is it possible that the clutch will work sufficiently with six volts as it does with 12 volts?
    John Clary
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    Silver Hawk Member 52-fan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Forrester View Post
    Yeah, riiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiight. I've heard that before.
    Maybe we should start a pool on how long he keeps this one.


    "In the heart of Arkansas."
    Searcy, Arkansas
    1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
    1952 2R pickup

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    When I bought the Avanti, it had a new set of 15x6 steel wheels installed. I think they might be the ones that the late Bob Helm was selling? Either way.. They worked great on that car with the Turner discs and factory wheel covers, which is the same setup I'll be running on the '51.

    The Diamond Back tires (Toyo 225/75R15, 3" WW) showed up a couple of days ago. This weekend I dug out the wheels, removed the old tires, repainted them to match the '51, and mounted the new DB's. I still need to take them to a tire shop to have them balanced, but it's one thing checked off the to-do list.

    Last edited by mbstude; 08-05-2018 at 10:11 AM.

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    Golden Hawk Member rockne10's Avatar
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    Diamond Back is a good deal; fresh name brand tires with your choice of white walls. The only car I haven't put them on is the '33.

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    New shoes!


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    Silver Hawk Member Milaca's Avatar
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    Looks good Matt, I want a ride! Appears to have every exterior accessory except for a stainless-steel sunvisor...will you be adding one?

    In the middle of MinneSTUDEa.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Milaca View Post
    Looks good Matt, I want a ride! Appears to have every exterior accessory except for a stainless-steel sunvisor...will you be adding one?
    It doesn't have a visor, or fender skirts, or fog lights, or mud guards, or venetian blinds... I think it looks fine without any of that stuff.

  14. #14
    President Member Colgate Studebaker's Avatar
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    I think it looks great just as it is Matt. Looking forward to seeing it again, enjoy. Bill

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    My neighbor had one exactly like yours around 1952 that he drove for years, From his road into the highway was a little grade. I remember the way the exhaust sounded as it set there idling, compliments of the hill holder. Beautiful car, Thanks for sharing.

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    President Member 62champ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mbstude View Post
    New shoes!

    Looking great Matt. Remember a Texas SDC member who had a Maui blue 51 LC that was automatic - he used to always laugh at the speed limit because he stated the LC loved to run between 70 and 75... What do you use to clean your white walls?

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    Golden Hawk Member rockne10's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 62champ View Post
    ... the LC loved to run between 70 and 75.
    If you push the pedal, that transmission will run the car up to 72 mph before it even shifts to third! These Commanders will effortlessly cruise well beyond 75 mph. Not that I'm inclined to do that all the time anymore.

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    Golden Hawk Member StudeRich's Avatar
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    This one looks like an OVERDRIVE Car! A HUGE PLUS! Good score Matt.

    All it needs to complete "the Loaded LOOK" is Fog Lights. Never mind the Fender Skirts.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner




  19. #19
    Golden Hawk Member jclary's Avatar
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    Love the car, Matt. I sure have enjoyed mine. For those only familiar with the Champions, the Land Cruisers (and Commanders) are a whole 'nuther experience!

    Hey, Matt...could you get some close-up pics of those window vent shades and send them to me? I have a set for my business coupe but no instructions. I need to see a closeup of where they are mounted and the position of the screws. I spent too many years and effort to restore my car and can't bring myself to drill any holes until I'm sure of exactly how they are to be installed.
    John Clary
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    Silver Hawk Member 52-fan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StudeRich View Post
    This one looks like an OVERDRIVE Car! A HUGE PLUS! Good score Matt.

    All it needs to complete "the Loaded LOOK" is Fog Lights. Never mind the Fender Skirts.
    Looks like overdrive to me too. I agree about the skirts. I think that red hood release cable looks too new, but I bet Matt can take care of that if it bothers him.
    Attached Images Attached Images


    "In the heart of Arkansas."
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    1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
    1952 2R pickup

  21. #21
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    John, I’ll get some pics of the vent shades later today.

    Yea, it has overdrive. An automatic would’ve been enough for me to not buy it, I’ve had both and definitely prefer the OD.

    ‘51 hood release cables have been impossible to find for a long time. The one on this car was replaced with an NOS Lark cable a few years ago. I do have an NOS ‘52 cable that I think will be close enough to work, and has the correct looking handle.

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    This one will be a keeper.
    HaHaHa!
    Bill

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    Golden Hawk Member rockne10's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jclary View Post
    Hey, Matt...could you get some close-up pics of those window vent shades and send them to me? I have a set for my business coupe but no instructions. I need to see a closeup of where they are mounted and the position of the screws. I spent too many years and effort to restore my car and can't bring myself to drill any holes until I'm sure of exactly how they are to be installed.
    Pretty straightforward, John.
    Insert the ventshade between the stainless reveal molding and the stainless bead of the window channel. Roll the window all the way up to make certain the ventshade is snug, properly positioned and doesn't interfere with your wing vent. With the window up you should be able to drill the two holes through the existing ventshade holes and in to the stainless molding--not in to the door shell. And use stainless screws.
    P8110521.jpg P8110523.jpg P8110525.jpg P8110528.jpg P8110529.jpg

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    As far as the vent shades go.. What Brad said.



    I spent the early afternoon installing new valve stem seals. The car has a smoking habit so I figured it was overdue. I learned that the 232's have a single o-ring instead of an umbrella seal.. No wonder it was smoky. The later umbrella seals fit just fine so I'm confident this will take care of the problem. I'll head back out to the shop tomorrow to reinstall the rocker assemblies and adjust the valves.



    The shop manual lists the valve clearance at .16-.18. I'm guessing that changed when the factory improved the camshaft.


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    Golden Hawk Member jclary's Avatar
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    Thanks, Brad & Matt. In another thread last year, I tried to get some help on this and the few replies I got mostly suggested glue and tape like is used on the modern plastic shades. After that, I gave up. But you guys have given me the motivation to take another look. The brand of ventshades I have is Kromevent. In the box, there is a tiny envelope with what looks to be brass screws. I think I'll see if I can match them up with some stainless screws.

    An even more daunting task I have is to install a spotlight. Once again, requiring holes to be drilled in my car. I even have the template but am still hesitant to use a punch & drill. I don't know about the rest of you guys, but I'm sometimes surprised at myself when finding some long sought after accessory, and then becoming so apprehensive about what I have to do to my car to install it.
    John Clary
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    President Member BRUCESTUDE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mbstude View Post
    As far as the vent shades go.. What Brad said.



    I spent the early afternoon installing new valve stem seals. The car has a smoking habit so I figured it was overdue. I learned that the 232's have a single o-ring instead of an umbrella seal.. No wonder it was smoky. The later umbrella seals fit just fine so I'm confident this will take care of the problem. I'll head back out to the shop tomorrow to reinstall the rocker assemblies and adjust the valves.



    The shop manual lists the valve clearance at .16-.18. I'm guessing that changed when the factory improved the camshaft.

    I've seen these tags on 51/52 232's, and I agree they came about after early camshaft failures. I do love those 232s; they are high revving and fast!

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    Golden Hawk Member rockne10's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jclary View Post
    The brand of ventshades I have is Kromevent. In the box, there is a tiny envelope with what looks to be brass screws. I think I'll see if I can match them up with some stainless screws.
    John,
    Brass screws will be fine. Most ventshade kits have been opened, closed and passed around so much that the screws have been lost. Just don't use steel screws, as you know they will rust and stain your "stainless." Brass is fine.

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    Golden Hawk Member jclary's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockne10 View Post
    John,
    Brass screws will be fine. Most ventshade kits have been opened, closed and passed around so much that the screws have been lost. Just don't use steel screws, as you know they will rust and stain your "stainless." Brass is fine.
    Yeah, thanks, Brad. Your biggest help was showing closeup pics of exactly where these things are attached. I was thinking they were supposed to be screwed into the door itself, but couldn't figure out how that would work. Last night, after dark, I went out and checked it out (the temperature fell below 90, but the humidity was still oppressive.) When the vents are placed properly, everything fits great. Before seeing your pics, I was trying to hold them just inside the upper part of the window frame. Of course, they won't fit there because the angle is just not right. I'm glad I waited to be sure because if I had just "winged it," I would have really messed up. Thanks.
    John Clary
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  29. #29
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    Got the rocker covers back on and fired it up. The ‘51 has officially given up its smoking habit. It’s nice when what could be a major problem ends up being an easy fix.

    Took the car for a drive for the first time. It runs and drives great and the AC blows ice cold. What’s not to love?
    Last edited by mbstude; 08-12-2018 at 04:15 PM.

  30. #30
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    That is a really pretty Car, love the Color. anyways Matt how many can say They have a 51 Studebaker with AC
    Joseph R. Zeiger

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    Quote Originally Posted by 63t-cab View Post
    That is a really pretty Car, love the Color. anyways Matt how many can say They have a 51 Studebaker with AC
    Quite a few if you count all of the modified bullet nose cars out there.
    Gary L.
    Wappinger, NY

    SDC member since 1968
    Studebaker enthusiast much longer

  32. #32
    President Member Jeff_H's Avatar
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    Finally looking at this thread and noted the AC with still 6V.

    Although its possible the compressor clutch may engage on 6v, I think it could be doubtful. If there are 6v coils available for these, I suspect the current draw is pretty high. The magnetic pull-in force created in a clutch coil with all else being equal is proportional to current squared x turns squared:

    F proportional to I^2 x N^2

    Ohms law also applies here so I = V/R

    For something running on 6V instead of 12V w/o changing anything else you get 1/2 the current and I^2 of 1/2 the current is 1/4 the force to pull-in the clutch.

    You can rewind the coil to use larger wire to reduce the resistance but that takes more space. You can increase the number of turns as N^2 adds up too. But, more turns means more space needed or use finer wire but that makes R go up what makes I go down.....

    You can see where this goes. Tradeoffs. I would expect a 6V coil vs a 12V coil has some combo of both larger gauge wire to reduce resistance and more turns to get the same pull-in. All that said, I expect in the end it takes more current from the car electrical system compared to a 12v coil.

    All this above rambling goes to why 12v replaced 6v and some years ago there were serious work on going with 36v in new cars (no longer a thing) since load demands of all the accessories is going up and up.

    I didn't see if this car has a alternator (there are 6v ones available) or the original generator.

    Jeff in ND

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff_H View Post
    Finally looking at this thread and noted the AC with still 6V.

    Although its possible the compressor clutch may engage on 6v, I think it could be doubtful. If there are 6v coils available for these, I suspect the current draw is pretty high. The magnetic pull-in force created in a clutch coil with all else being equal is proportional to current squared x turns squared:

    F proportional to I^2 x N^2

    Ohms law also applies here so I = V/R

    For something running on 6V instead of 12V w/o changing anything else you get 1/2 the current and I^2 of 1/2 the current is 1/4 the force to pull-in the clutch.

    You can rewind the coil to use larger wire to reduce the resistance but that takes more space. You can increase the number of turns as N^2 adds up too. But, more turns means more space needed or use finer wire but that makes R go up what makes I go down.....

    You can see where this goes. Tradeoffs. I would expect a 6V coil vs a 12V coil has some combo of both larger gauge wire to reduce resistance and more turns to get the same pull-in. All that said, I expect in the end it takes more current from the car electrical system compared to a 12v coil.

    All this above rambling goes to why 12v replaced 6v and some years ago there were serious work on going with 36v in new cars (no longer a thing) since load demands of all the accessories is going up and up.

    I didn't see if this car has a alternator (there are 6v ones available) or the original generator.
    From what I've been told, the AC compressor clutch was taken to a local electric shop and modified to work on 6 volts. The car is still running the original generator, though I may change it to a 6V alternator when I redo the wiring. Either way.. It's been setup this way and working fine for the last 21 years.

  34. #34
    President Member Jeff_H's Avatar
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    the AC compressor clutch was taken to a local electric shop and modified to work on 6 volts.
    Thanks Matthew, what I figured. I think those generators only put out 30A or so. Extra load of the AC and blowers if driving at night maybe pushing the limit. But, if its working, its working!

    I do like that shade of maroon used in those years of cars. Seems like 90% of the un-restored survivor cars of the 47-52 era are some shade of green from what I see when they turn up around this part of the country.

    Jeff in ND

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