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Thread: removing knuckle arm

  1. #1
    Speedster Member whitehawk759's Avatar
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    removing knuckle arm

    I am trying to remove the knuckle arm from the Hawk and have been having no luck. I have tried everything I can think of, from a big lead hammer to using a Pittman arm puller. Is there some kind of secret about getting them off, no problem with the tie rod end but the other end is a b**ch. I am looking at page 13 of the shop manual and I see nothing that should hold it in once the nut is loose. Help please.
    Don Watson
    61 Hawk

  2. #2
    Golden Hawk Member StudeRich's Avatar
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    I believe there IS a sort of "Key" holding it in there, plus it is driven in REALLY tight.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner




  3. #3
    Speedster Member whitehawk759's Avatar
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    There is a Woodruf key that keeps it from turning, but I can't seem to find anything else. I can understand REALLY tight but I can't see beating the hell out of it to get it out.
    Don Watson
    61 Hawk

  4. #4
    President Member
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    I bought a 5 piece front end set from Harbor Freight. One of the pieces fit perfect on the Stude knuckle arm. But it was like a rear drum pull. Crank on it and let it sit for a night, then the next day do the same and then bam, it will make some noise.

  5. #5
    Speedster Member whitehawk759's Avatar
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    I believe I have come up with a solution, when all else fail "GIVE UP"
    Don Watson
    61 Hawk

  6. #6
    President Member r1lark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by whitehawk759 View Post
    I believe I have come up with a solution, when all else fail "GIVE UP"
    But......aren't you afraid that you have loosened it up some now, and it will fall off while you are driving?
    Paul
    Winston-Salem, NC
    Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

  7. #7
    President Member bensherb's Avatar
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    It is a keyed TAPER fit. As it's tightened to spec it's drawn into a taper to what amounts to a press fit. I removed the spindles from the car and pressed them out. It took less than 12 tons (max capacity of my press) probably around 6; and made a big bang when the finally let loose. I'm sure soaking them in liquid wrench helped.

  8. #8
    President Member
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    Why on do you want to remove it? If it aint broken leave it alone. I just went through the front end of my 65 sedan and saw no reason to seperate the arm from the spindle. Even if you are stripping them for some OCD paint job still no reason.
    If you car is ugly then it better be fast.....

    65 2dr sedan
    64 2dr sedan (Pinkie)
    61 V8 Tcab
    63 Tcab 20R powered
    55 Commander Wagon
    54 Champion Wagon
    46 Gibson Model A
    50 JD MC
    45 Agricat
    67 Triumph T100
    66 Bultaco Matadore

  9. #9
    President Member bensherb's Avatar
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    You would usually remove them to install the shorter Avanti ones for quicker steering. I removed them to shorten them for wheel clearance, I didn't need them as short as the Avanti short/quick steering ones.

  10. #10
    President Member Xcalibur's Avatar
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    I've used a 30-ton hydraulic press when nothing else worked.

  11. #11
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    Don i have installed 2 seys of those steering arms and they are well worth the effort. support the weight of the front end by putting your floor jack under the king pin, this holds it solider. a stand not quite touching the frame for insurance and a heavy shop hammer. lead wont do you have to shock it out. or take the spindle off and use a press. they will give you a work out but really are worth the effort. Luck Doofus

  12. #12
    President Member 63 R2 Hawk's Avatar
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    I had the same struggle with my Hawk. Tried evenrything, big hammers, heat, etc. Finally grabbed my Snap On air hammer, modified a chisel bit to fit into the counterbored center and had 'em both out in less than 30 seconds apiece. I hadn't touched the left one so it wasn't "loosened up" yet....

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