Other: Studebaker Avanti owners with a/c.

[Hawklover]

If it turns out that the York compressor in my ride has to be replaced, what is the consensus of what would be a good replacement (in addition to the same York model) I have heard Sanden mentioned, but what about mounting to the factory compressor brackets from the factory??

[jnormanh]

If it turns out that the York compressor in my ride has to be replaced, what is the consensus of what would be a good replacement (in addition to the same York model) I have heard Sanden mentioned, but what about mounting to the factory compressor brackets from the factory??

York compressors are readily available for $150 or thereabouts. Sanden 508s are about the same price and are good reliable units, but no way will they fit a York bracket.


If you are satisfied the performance of the York, it will be easier to fit.

If your car was running R12, then the reasonable thing to do is convert to R134a. Which ever compressor you buy will probably be set up for 134a anyway.

If the York is toast or all the freon has been lost, you'll need a new dryer/filter and probably a system flush. While that's not rocket science, unless you have a set of gauges and understand how the system works, you'll probably be better off taking it to an AC shop.

[64studeavanti]

Adapter mounts are readily available from york to sanden. The last one I purchased was about $30.

[Hawklover]

Well since I have 24 one pound cans of R12 that I never used, I guess I stay with R12!

York compressors are readily available for $150 or thereabouts. Sanden 508s are about the same price and are good reliable units, but no way will they fit a York bracket.


If you are satisfied the performance of the York, it will be easier to fit.

If your car was running R12, then the reasonable thing to do is convert to R134a. Which ever compressor you buy will probably be set up for 134a anyway.

If the York is toast or all the freon has been lost, you'll need a new dryer/filter and probably a system flush. While that's not rocket science, unless you have a set of gauges and understand how the system works, you'll probably be better off taking it to an AC shop.

[jnormanh]

[QUOTE=Hawklover;1117743]Well since I have 24 one pound cans of R12 that I never used, I guess I stay with R12![/Q]

Sure. Just be sure to recharge with the correct oil.

[Hawklover]

I called T/CCI......they told me all new 2-cyl compressors are shipped with PAG oil, guess I will have to drain that oil and put in mineral oil.[QUOTE=jnormanh;1117753]

Well since I have 24 one pound cans of R12 that I never used, I guess I stay with R12![/Q]

Sure. Just be sure to recharge with the correct oil.

[spokejr]

Actually, R12 isn't too fussy, R134A requires synthetic.

I just had my pump rebuilt and charged with R12, I could hang meat in this car now.

[bezhawk]

The Sanden uses less power to run, and your car won't heat up as much in slow traffic. At least that's been my experience. There is much more involved than just changing a bracket. The hose connections are different too. O-ring vs flare fittings. If you change to 134, the condenser should be changed to a parallel flow cooling unit. They are more effecient, and will do a better job. Not needed if you leave it R12.

[Hawklover]

Brad if indeed my compressor is shot, I will replace with another York, not going to have the hassle of different brackets, hose fitting etc...just have to get the correct receiver/dryer, the Avanti (Studebaker) used different ones, and I will have to take a picture of what is on the car now, so that I can get a new one........that is IF the compressor is shot.....may be just a leak someplace.....time I dig out the old Snap-on "sniffer":-)

The Sanden uses less power to run, and your car won't heat up as much in slow traffic. At least that's been my experience. There is much more involved than just changing a bracket. The hose connections are different too. O-ring vs flare fittings. If you change to 134, the condenser should be changed to a parallel flow cooling unit. They are more effecient, and will do a better job. Not needed if you leave it R12.

[stude1964]

I am sticking with the York in my '64. I had a buddy go through it with a kit from NAPA as well as shaft seals needed from Classic Air in Tampa. I'm about to have the drier reconditioned there as well. Mike was my contact. Anyone have extra grommets for the A/C hoses where they pass through the fender well and lower air panel at the condenser? I could use 1 or 2. Thanks!
Rob in PA.

[Hawklover]

Rob if your Stude is a '64 then you will need the large two hole grommet......FoMoCo P/N COAF-19B588A...available from MACS, Eckler, and all Ford vintage parts places....about $7.00 each...do a fast web search....do not forget the two thin metal retainers!

I am sticking with the York in my '64. I had a buddy go through it with a kit from NAPA as well as shaft seals needed from Classic Air in Tampa. I'm about to have the drier reconditioned there as well. Mike was my contact. Anyone have extra grommets for the A/C hoses where they pass through the fender well and lower air panel at the condenser? I could use 1 or 2. Thanks!
Rob in PA.

[stude1964]

Thanks for the info on the retainers. I thought they looked familiar. I would like to add them to an A/C install in one of my '64 Larks or Champ.
Rob in PA.