I drove the Hawk to the alignment shop yesterday and while it started just fine and drove to the shop, when I shut it off in the parking lot and went in side, I was soon told by the technician that it would not start. When I went outside, thinking that they weren't holding their mouth quite right, I was faced with no power whatsoever. I ended up having to call AAA and have it towed home. Today through a "jiggle and shake" inspection under the dash I was able to get power and the engine started right up, but then when I flipped the headlights on, all went dead again. I did this a couple of times but then I couldn't get anything. I checked all the light switch connections, but it had also seemed to occur with the dash light switch as well. I have had to replace the relay on the headlight switch before but don't know if that could be involved. Any help appreciated
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Originally posted by studegary View PostNot sure that it fits all of your description, but my first guess is the ignition switch.
I don't think it has anything to do with any light switch. It's just when you turn on a light, the extra current draw causes the bad connection (where ever it is) to open.Jerry Forrester
Forrester's Chrome
Douglasville, Georgia
See all of Buttercup's pictures at https://imgur.com/a/tBjGzTk
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Sounds like a loose Battery Cable to me, they just get acid and moisture between the Clamp and the Post, then under Load the heat from the High resistance boils the moisture out and temporarily you have power.
Also check the battery Cable TERMINAL, for looseness from the Cable, especially if it is one of those cheap Clamp-on repair Terminals.Last edited by StudeRich; 07-09-2018, 11:03 AM.StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
SDC Member Since 1967
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Check connections to the ammeterBez Auto Alchemy
573-318-8948
http://bezautoalchemy.com
"Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln
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All great suggestions, I have checked the battery and battery terminals. The battery is brand new and the terminals are tight and clean. I have power to the starter solenoid, but nothing past that. The starter switch is brand new from SI. I will check the connections on it, which at this point seems the most likely suspect. Thanks guys.Don Watson
61 Hawk
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Depending on how hot is gets, hot is not normal. Heat usually comes from a connection that is corroded internally. Think about what is happening at the microscopic level.RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.
10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
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Sounds a lot like the problem I had with wife's 62 Hawk. It went stone cold dead. Had to jump start it to get it into shop. The wire that goes from batt terminal on regulator to ammeter was shorted out. It was a perfectly healthy looking wire. Regulator died but gen survived. Ran another 12 wire from reg to ammeter. (Then I noticed the leaking rear main seal... Oh, well this hobby keeps us off the streets...)
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Originally posted by Jeffry Cassel View PostOh, well this hobby keeps us off the streets...)RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.
10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
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Originally posted by RadioRoy View PostDepending on how hot is gets, hot is not normal. Heat usually comes from a connection that is corroded internally. Think about what is happening at the microscopic level.Don Watson
61 Hawk
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Originally posted by whitehawk759 View PostHow do I take the am meter out of the loop?
To bypass the amp gauge, take all the wires off one terminal and add them to the other terminal.
But the bad connection is the most important thing. You could lose the car, your bikes, the garage, the house, your life, your loved one lives. DO NOT LEAVE THE BATTERY CONNECTED WHEN AWAY FROM THE VEHICLE!Last edited by Jerry Forrester; 07-13-2018, 03:22 AM.Jerry Forrester
Forrester's Chrome
Douglasville, Georgia
See all of Buttercup's pictures at https://imgur.com/a/tBjGzTk
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It's not likely to be a short circuit, although that is possible. It's most likely a high resistance point that is generating heat as the voltage forces the current through the bad connection.
All connection/transitioning points that are getting hot need to be taken apart and cleaned and inspected to determine the cause of the high resistance. likely causes are:
-dirt/corrosion on the meter stud or nut
-bad surface on the wire lug
-bad connection between wire lug and wire, especially if it is a crimp-on connector
-possibly the meter body itself has twisted and one terminal is within touching distance of the mounting bracket
Getting under the dash with a strong light would be a good idea. You can probe around with something insulated, like a chop stick from Chinese take out.
I would do that first with the battery disconnected.
It is also interesting that the ammeter shows discharge, but does not show charge. Sounds like more problems with the alternator or generator.Last edited by RadioRoy; 07-12-2018, 07:59 PM.RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.
10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
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