Electrical: No power

[whitehawk759]

I drove the Hawk to the alignment shop yesterday and while it started just fine and drove to the shop, when I shut it off in the parking lot and went in side, I was soon told by the technician that it would not start. When I went outside, thinking that they weren't holding their mouth quite right, I was faced with no power whatsoever. I ended up having to call AAA and have it towed home. Today through a "jiggle and shake" inspection under the dash I was able to get power and the engine started right up, but then when I flipped the headlights on, all went dead again. I did this a couple of times but then I couldn't get anything. I checked all the light switch connections, but it had also seemed to occur with the dash light switch as well. I have had to replace the relay on the headlight switch before but don't know if that could be involved. Any help appreciated

[studegary]

Not sure that it fits all of your description, but my first guess is the ignition switch.

[Jerry Forrester]

Not sure that it fits all of your description, but my first guess is the ignition switch.

Or a bad wire connection on the ign. switch.
I don't think it has anything to do with any light switch. It's just when you turn on a light, the extra current draw causes the bad connection (where ever it is) to open.

[TWChamp]

I agree with a bad ignition switch or loose wire on it. My 50 Champion had similar problems when I bought it 4 years ago, and it was loose nuts on the ignition switch.

[StudeRich]

Sounds like a loose Battery Cable to me, they just get acid and moisture between the Clamp and the Post, then under Load the heat from the High resistance boils the moisture out and temporarily you have power.

Also check the battery Cable TERMINAL, for looseness from the Cable, especially if it is one of those cheap Clamp-on repair Terminals.

[bezhawk]

Check connections to the ammeter

[whitehawk759]

All great suggestions, I have checked the battery and battery terminals. The battery is brand new and the terminals are tight and clean. I have power to the starter solenoid, but nothing past that. The starter switch is brand new from SI. I will check the connections on it, which at this point seems the most likely suspect. Thanks guys.

[whitehawk759]

I found the problem and it was a loose wire on the Amp meter. Thanks Bez. I am wondering, after I tightened the connection the connector still seemed to get really hot, is that normal?

[RadioRoy]

Depending on how hot is gets, hot is not normal. Heat usually comes from a connection that is corroded internally. Think about what is happening at the microscopic level.

[TWChamp]

I like to clean and grease my connections. Hopefully that will take care of the heat problem, so you don't have to go inside the gauge.

[Jeffry Cassel]

Sounds a lot like the problem I had with wife's 62 Hawk. It went stone cold dead. Had to jump start it to get it into shop. The wire that goes from batt terminal on regulator to ammeter was shorted out. It was a perfectly healthy looking wire. Regulator died but gen survived. Ran another 12 wire from reg to ammeter. (Then I noticed the leaking rear main seal... Oh, well this hobby keeps us off the streets...)

[RadioRoy]

Oh, well this hobby keeps us off the streets...)

Haha! We are supposed to be ON the streets with our hobby.

[whitehawk759]

Depending on how hot is gets, hot is not normal. Heat usually comes from a connection that is corroded internally. Think about what is happening at the microscopic level.

Hot enough to burn my finger, which I did. I tried to tighten it as much as I could and then put liquid tape on it. Could it be shorted inside the gauge. I am also running a Volt meter since the am meter only shows discharge not charge. How do I take the am meter out of the loop?

[Jerry Forrester]

How do I take the am meter out of the loop?

If it's still getting hot you still have a bad connection where it's getting hot.
To bypass the amp gauge, take all the wires off one terminal and add them to the other terminal.

But the bad connection is the most important thing. You could lose the car, your bikes, the garage, the house, your life, your loved one lives. DO NOT LEAVE THE BATTERY CONNECTED WHEN AWAY FROM THE VEHICLE!

[RadioRoy]

It's not likely to be a short circuit, although that is possible. It's most likely a high resistance point that is generating heat as the voltage forces the current through the bad connection.

All connection/transitioning points that are getting hot need to be taken apart and cleaned and inspected to determine the cause of the high resistance. likely causes are:
-dirt/corrosion on the meter stud or nut
-bad surface on the wire lug
-bad connection between wire lug and wire, especially if it is a crimp-on connector
-possibly the meter body itself has twisted and one terminal is within touching distance of the mounting bracket

Getting under the dash with a strong light would be a good idea. You can probe around with something insulated, like a chop stick from Chinese take out.

I would do that first with the battery disconnected.

It is also interesting that the ammeter shows discharge, but does not show charge. Sounds like more problems with the alternator or generator.