So the last brake system was on the Galaxie. 5 min and done. This 57 Studebaker is about to put me in the closed ward. 4 days and still no %$##^&* brakes. All new components and no discernable leaks.. Studebakers are the only things I know where the laws of physics just do not seem to apply. Ideas?? (beyond the obvious please!)
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Can you provide more detail on what you have done so far?
Possibly a blockage or no pressure from master? with the line removed from the master cylinder can you pump fluid out? Just move down the line and see where the fluid stoppage is.
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3 ways to bleed the brakes, which one are you using?
2 people, one to pump while the other opens and closes the bleed screw.
Pressure on the master while opening each bleed screw.
Vacuum pump at each bleed screw to suck out the air.
I've used all 3, but like pressure on the master the best. I had to use my hand vacuum pump on my Land Cruiser a couple weeks ago, and it was giving me fits until I found the rear flex hose was blocked solid. After installing a new hose, that car now has the best brakes of any car I've ever owned. Less than one inch to a solid pedal.
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I made a tool 30 years ago. Just pump the brakes apply the tool to hold pressure and bleed the air and repete. Start at the master cylinder and go outward and if you can not find it it could well be the master cylinder. Just cause it is new does not mean it is good.If you car is ugly then it better be fast.....
65 2dr sedan
64 2dr sedan (Pinkie)
61 V8 Tcab
63 Tcab 20R powered
55 Commander Wagon
54 Champion Wagon
46 Gibson Model A
50 JD MC
45 Agricat
67 Triumph T100
66 Bultaco Matadore
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Originally posted by christophe View PostI like to use a check valve bleeder. They are inexpensive and you can do the job all by yourself.
On tough cases, I usually feed the system by the rear brakes, using a large syringe. Never failed so far.
Nice day to all.
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removed and examined mc and found it had no check valve! Found one and put it back together. Hoping that will help. My method it manual method. "Bench bleeding" mc seems only relevant if you are replacing the mc and wish to try to avoid bleeding the entire system. How wise you are! ("Just cause it is new does not mean it is good.")
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You got a MC for a car being converted to Disc Brakes. When adding disc brakes the one instruction is to take the check valve out of the MC or the front discs won't release.
Originally posted by Jeffry Cassel View Postremoved and examined mc and found it had no check valve! Found one and put it back together. Hoping that will help. My method it manual method. "Bench bleeding" mc seems only relevant if you are replacing the mc and wish to try to avoid bleeding the entire system. How wise you are! ("Just cause it is new does not mean it is good.")sigpic1966 Daytona (The First One)
1950 Champion Convertible
1950 Champion 4Dr
1955 President 2 Dr Hardtop
1957 Thunderbird
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Originally posted by Jeffry Cassel View PostGot brakes! Guess that little check valve is there for a reason. Just cause it is new does not mean it is all there! -- Christophe: would like to know more about your method. Bought "Mighty vac" some time back -it was expensive and it never worked so don't waste $ on them!
I had to do this recently on my SIMCA 1000 hydraulic clutch system and it worked beautifully. Previously, I had tried a vaccum pump but it was useless in this case.
Nice day to all.sigpic
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