Engine temperatures.

[StudeRich]

NO! On a Six it is easy, just open the Drain Plug at the Left Rear and or remove the starter, and knock out the Rear Core Plug, not near ANY Manifolds, Head etc.

[Pepse]

Good. I thought it would be a long drawn out process. What size is that plug?

Later. Pepse.

[Pepse]

Well I decide to see if the chassis parts catalog would help me with the freeze plug and well I got 2 different sizes for the same part number. Illust. No. 0102-3 | part No. 1539038 - PLUG, water jacket 1 1/2", Part No. 194166 - PLUG, water jacket 1 7/8", G444740 - Plug, water jacket drain 3/8", and 4 others that pertain to the model 57G Stude.

Since I gotta remove the starter do I need to remove the distributor, also? That's why I include the pic of the work a area.

[Hawkowner]

I am a believer in having the top tank of the radiator remove and having the tubes rodded
y out
rather than tanked and flushed out
Hawkowner

[Pepse]

Okay, folks, as you can see I tried to remove the frost plug behind the starter. I Googled the "how to" and supposedly all I needed to do was to take a flat screwdriver and a hammer and tap on the bottom and the bottom would go in and the top would pop out and then take a pliers and remove it. Yeah right. Anyway most of the block drained. Now I need to know what to do next. I have never done it this way because I have replaced frost plugs in the past when they were popped out due to the cold.

Later. Pepse.

[TWChamp]

Those are core plugs, used to hold the core in place while the cast iron block is poured. If your engine froze, and the core plugs came out, but the block didn't crack, consider yourself extremely lucky.
I would have used RUST911 while the plugs were in place.
Now I'd remove the thermostat and flush the block by sticking the hose down the thermostat opening and into the core plug opening.

[StudeRich]

Well I decide to see if the chassis parts catalog would help me with the freeze plug and well I got 2 different sizes for the same part number. Illust. No. 0102-3 | part No. 1539038 - PLUG, water jacket 1 1/2", Part No. 194166 - PLUG, water jacket 1 7/8", G444740 - Plug, water jacket drain 3/8", and 4 others that pertain to the model 57G Stude.

Since I gotta remove the starter do I need to remove the distributor, also? That's why I include the pic of the work a area.

Just count the Large Core Plugs 1 7/8" and the smaller ones 1 1/2" on the Left side of the Block and the Qty. for a 57G Champion shown in the Catalog should match, that is what (All) you need.

No the Distributor should not have to come out, but the Oil Filler Pipe will, if you plan to replace the Core Plug behind it. This of course will require finding a way to totally SEAL the Hole in the block temporarily to prevent water going in the Crankcase.

Also remove the Dipstick Tube and Seal the Hole, as the spring clip will come off when removing the Starter that holds it down tightly.

All of this procedure should be in your Shop Manual.

[Pepse]

StudeRich,

I didn't see anything in the Shop Manual for the Frost plugs (how to remove). I looked through the Cooling System and the Engines section, nothing. So, I have the starter removed and in my last post (6:40 PM) I am asking how to remove that frost plug. As you can see I damaged the plug and I don't know what to do next; as: How to remove that frost plug. I mean do I continue to pound the screwdriver around the perimeter to remove it or do I look for something bigger about the size of the plug and pound it into the water jacket?

Later. Pepse.

CWChamp, Once I get the plug out and clean the crap outta that area I will be flushing the cooling system.

[jackb]

***!!!! DO NOT TRY TO PICK OUT THE PLUG BY DRIVING A SCREWDRIVER AROUND THE EDGES!!!!**** You might break off the inside shoulder and then be forced to try and seal the block with the expansion-type plug (not the best). You need to drive the big screw driver "through" the center of the plug, then pry it out with another wooden fulcrum leveraging the screwdriver on it to protect surfaces. After you have cleaned out the block, install the correct plugs with a good sealer around the plug inside edges (clean surfaces!), then drive a 1/2 inch or 9/16ths socket or equivalent into the center of the plug. You should see a slightly recessed "dimple" in the plug after driving. If in doubt, do it again. I do best with a 5lb. hammer, 1 experienced blow...

[Pepse]

Thank you jackb, I will try that later.

Later. Pepse.