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Thread: problem with temperature gauge 57 GH

  1. #1
    President Member Swiss-Goldenhawk's Avatar
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    Question problem with temperature gauge 57 GH

    Hello together,

    Today I installed a NOS Stewart Warner temperature gauge. Unfortunately it also doesn't work as it should. As soon as I turn the ignition switch to the first position (power), after about 3 seconds, the gauge's needle starts to move to the right (slowly, but steady), until it reaches over 240°F. And there it stays forever. When I shut the car off (ignition switch tilted, no current), then after a while the needle does move back to the left side, until it reaches 100°F.

    It doesn't show the correct temperature of the coolant. My engine was still cold, when it showed this behaviour.

    I also checked the temperature sender, which seems to be the 1957 style. I have also a NOS 1957 temperature sending unit, but I couldn't manage to remove the old temperature sender, seems to be rusted-in. I also unplugged the wire and plugged it in again. It doesn't solve the problem.

    But before I remove the temperature sender (which is very hard to remove, cause it is rusted-in), I would like to rule out other causes of this problem.

    This even happens, when I remove the wire that attaches on the back of the temperature gauge..(so the needle moves to the right, wihout having the sending wire attached)

    Does somebody have an idea what causes the needle to move to the far right, just after turning the ignition on (this starts after 3 seconds to move to the far right position of the temperature gauge).

    Thank you very much for any ideas.

    Best regards

    Rudy

  2. #2
    President Member TWChamp's Avatar
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    Check the ohms of the sending unit in the block, then check the ohms of the wire disconnected from the dash unit. It sounds like an open to me. Also make sure the dash unit has a good ground.

  3. #3
    President Member Swiss-Goldenhawk's Avatar
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    Hi TWChamp

    Thank you for your answer. I will test with a multimeter. Do you know how much ohm would be ok?

    Thank you

    Rudy

  4. #4
    President Member TWChamp's Avatar
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    Except for my 63 Lark, all my Studes are 52 and older, so I don't know the ohms for your car. The shop manual might tell, but the main thing is that you are checking for an open between the sender and gauge.

  5. #5
    President Member Swiss-Goldenhawk's Avatar
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    Hi TWChamp

    Thank you, I will check that.

    Rudy

  6. #6
    President Member Swiss-Goldenhawk's Avatar
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    Hello

    I got the temperature gauge to work. I removed two nuts, there were two nuts on the 3 and 9 o'clock terminals and only put one nut on each of the terminals. It seems it was a ground problem. I started with measuring the old and the NOS temperature gauge. The old temperature gauge had a resistance of 0 Ohm, so it was definitely defective. The NOS temperature gauge had a resistance of 240 Ohm and was alright. Then I measured the installed temperature sender, it had 0.878 Ohm and the new temperature sender I have in the package is 0.862 Ohm. So almost the same. The problem was not the new gauge, but the ground. And my old gauge was definitely defective because it has 0 Ohm of resistance.

    So finally the new gauge works as it should. Thank you for the tip, TWChamp. Glad I had a multimeter that I could use to measure these things.

    Rudy

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