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Thread: 1950 Land Cruiser Door Won't Click Open

  1. #1
    President Member TWChamp's Avatar
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    1950 Land Cruiser Door Won't Click Open

    The detent must be broken on my 1950 L/C driver's door, as it won't click to hold the door open. I've never had to remove a door panel or fix anything on the inside of any of my Studebaker doors, so I was just wondering if the door panels will come off without wrecking them, and how tough is it to fix the door opener catch?

    I've had lots of brand X doors apart and sometimes the clips can't be saved, and often the panels on older cars tear at the edge.

  2. #2
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    Is this pre-existing, or a new issue? Especially if pre-existing, I'd be tempted to
    try flooding the exposed slot with penetrating oil, then working the door back &
    forth. Door panels are delicate, but the clips are reusable; be careful
    and look for ALL of the screws.

  3. #3
    President Member TWChamp's Avatar
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    This is one of several small things wrong with the car when I got it 6 weeks ago.
    Something inside the door has to have come out of place, or broke.
    The door is aligned well and has a very nice fit, and closes great, but it's annoying having it not stay open.

  4. #4
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    DSC08728.JPGDSC08732.JPGDSC08733.JPGDSC08731.JPGI am not sure how yours is configured but this is a 54. There are a variety of tools to remove the clips, don't try to pull them off by hand, use the right tool. I am sure the door will have to be removed. On this model there is a spring steel clasp and if the clasp is broken the door will not stay open. The assembly may be spot welded in place and may require drilling out the spot welds and replacing the unit with a mechanical fastener or rewelding it.

  5. #5
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    The trick to door panel removal is to work the tool under the tab against the door, NOT under the finger in the press board. "Feel" around with a putty knife as the clips face all different directions. Luck Doofus

  6. #6
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    Before pulling the panel, make sure the “clamp” on the door check is in place first. The first two photos in altair’s post show what you should see. Usually they’re gummed up so they don’t work, but they do break. The door check and the clamp are both installed from inside the door.

  7. #7
    President Member TWChamp's Avatar
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    I did look for the clicker yesterday, and it's not showing on the driver's door.
    I'll look closer with my flashlight, but I suspect it broke off and fell down inside the door.

  8. #8
    President Member thunderations's Avatar
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    Once you get the door panel off, there's a pretty big access hole in the door that allows you do work on that door check. Shouldn't need to remove the door unless there's a huge rust issue. Minor welding can be done through that access hole if needed with a wire feed welder.
    1966 Daytona (The First One)
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