Get more out of the 170

[sals54]

You may need to install a different rear end, one with a taller gear ratio. Check the differential and look for a tag with a number such a 4:10 or 3:55. My '60 Lark has the economy rear end ratio of 3:07 so it'll do 70 easy, but it also has a V8.

I think you've hit the nail on the head. Just switch to a V8 and be done with it. The costs involved in getting a 6 to make any sort of power, (other than for racing), would go a long way to just switching over to a V8 and enjoy the good gas mileage and the driveability that'll keep up with any of the modern traffic without worrying about blowing up the engine.

[Skybolt]

I think you've hit the nail on the head. Just switch to a V8 and be done with it. The costs involved in getting a 6 to make any sort of power, (other than for racing), would go a long way to just switching over to a V8 and enjoy the good gas mileage and the driveability that'll keep up with any of the modern traffic without worrying about blowing up the engine.

Too true. That is unless you really want to spend countless hours tinkering and don't mind the challengers involved. I played around with the original Flathead 6, then the OHV 6, mainly because I had never had a Studebaker 6 before, always had V8's.

I eventually swapped out the OHV 6 for a Studebaker V8, which was the original plan before I purchased the car. Like I mentioned before, to me the 6 was a novelty but eventually that wore off and the practicality of the V8 overtook any previous interest in spending any more time and money making the 6 do the work of the V8. Turboing was next on the list for the 6. and I had one for the job. It would have been a novelty but I wanted reliable power with an easy to care for package, KISS.

If I only I had spent those hours and dollars on the V8. On the other hand I now have experience with Studebaker sixes.

Len

[jackb]

must be 100 octane gas out in CA.....

[Skybolt]

must be 100 octane gas out in CA.....

No, but I didn't want to get into all the fiddly things I did to get it to it's final iteration. Like I said many many hours.

Len

[km420]

as mentioned, I had considered doing a v8 swap, but decided to stick with the 6 currently.

Since there's not much that I can tell actually wrong with the current motor, I decided to keep the 6 and put some cash aside over the next couple years to do a v8 upgrade the right way, and I'd rather build it over the next couple years instead of starting on it now and rushing it. I'll be getting the things needed for a full tune-up and begin doing that in the next few weeks, then begin looking into taller gears.

Thanks again everyone! the help/advice is always appreciated.

[70Avanti2]

If you can't find the ratio tag. You can jack up the rear and spin the tires one revalution. Then see how many times drive shaft turns. Will give you the ratio.

[Jerry Forrester]

If you can't find the ratio tag. You can jack up the rear and spin the tires one revalution. Then see how many times drive shaft turns. Will give you the ratio.

Raise one rear tire off the ground. Turn it exactly 2 complete revolutions while counting the revolutions of the driveshaft. That will give you the ratio of the ring gear and pinion.

[Skybolt]

as mentioned, I had considered doing a v8 swap, but decided to stick with the 6 currently.

Since there's not much that I can tell actually wrong with the current motor, I decided to keep the 6 and put some cash aside over the next couple years to do a v8 upgrade the right way, and I'd rather build it over the next couple years instead of starting on it now and rushing it. I'll be getting the things needed for a full tune-up and begin doing that in the next few weeks, then begin looking into taller gears.

Thanks again everyone! the help/advice is always appreciated.

I did that. Good plan. I found it easier to get a hold of a rusted out hulk with a V8. All the things you need and you can scrap the rest. Then build the engine with no rush. The only thing that may differ is transmission choice. Better to decide now and plan ahead. Just ask away and the forum will help you out.

Len

[sals54]

as mentioned, I had considered doing a v8 swap, but decided to stick with the 6 currently.

Since there's not much that I can tell actually wrong with the current motor, I decided to keep the 6 and put some cash aside over the next couple years to do a v8 upgrade the right way, and I'd rather build it over the next couple years instead of starting on it now and rushing it. I'll be getting the things needed for a full tune-up and begin doing that in the next few weeks, then begin looking into taller gears.

Thanks again everyone! the help/advice is always appreciated.

I can dig that. There are some fun things to do to a 6 to spruce up the power too. A turbo can add a little or a lot of power rather simply and cheaply. You don't need to go the fancy route, either. Add a turbo to the exhaust side, blow through the carb ,(if its sealed), or build a simple carb enclosure. Then keep the boost at about 6 psi. You'll have a little more power and not melt a piston, (as I did running 14 psi of boost).
Or add dual exhaust and a little more carb, and you'll enjoy just a tad more power, (maybe 10 more HP), but it'll drive much better and have better throttle response.
Either way, enjoy the ride, doing it your way.

[km420]

One last question on this topic; would you upgrade to a Pertronix ignition (and does anyone know what part number I should be looking for) or just do the points, wires, plugs etc....

Thanks again!

[TWChamp]

I like my original points ignition system. I've never had one fail yet.

[Ross]

I am running stock points etc in all my cars. Every 20K or so I have to do a tuneup. They all start instantly. I have heard many stories of vast performance improvements when installing Pertronix etc. but they were invariably comparing with a system on its last legs. I have tried electronic ignition on several older cars but without any outstanding improvement in starting or economy compared to regular ignition in standard condition.
With the revs and compression ratios we're talking about with a 170 points will do just fine. My 62 will pull the steep hill on the interstate near me at 75 in OD--indicated 80.

[TWChamp]

That reminds me, in 1966 I installed transistorized ignition on my 55 Chevy, and it went out 5 days later on my way to work.
Then in 1977 I installed electronic ignition on my 1971 IH Scout 800B, and it lasted less than a week.
Points have been great and totally reliable.