Vin Plate Attachment

[Topper2011]

Awaiting the history of my Hawk from the Studebaker Museum. While trying to get my car registered, DMV person kicked me out after 2 hours of waiting just to get a number for waiting for a person to help. Stated Bill of Sale not good enough. Needed Bill of Sale from previous owner to seller also. Arrrg. Anyway, my motorcycle club was able to suggest a service to help me. My local service wanted over $700 to come out, get the information, do a vin verification and get it registered, pricey. My Club's recommendation cost $131 all inclusive, luckily my car was still in the system on Non-Op! Great news! No back fees! I should be getting paperwork in a few weeks. The I can really get down to disassembling it.

[StudeNewby]

That IS good news! The DMV often plays the role of the "heavy" in these proceedings, and this forum is rife with stories of the California DMV attempting to screw over a collector. I'm glad your story is having a happy ending!

[StudeRich]

I am very happy to hear that you are on your way to getting Registration and a Title for your Hawk as others here I am sure also are.

I would caution you though, on your plan to start disassembling it, that is usually not a great idea when you first get a Car and know little about it.

FIRST thing is: get the excellent Studebaker Chassis Parts Catalog, Body Parts Catalog and Shop Manual for '59-'64 Studes. they are available in 3 Books (Pricey) or (1) CD Rom Disc. very reasonable at Studebaker Vendors.

http://studebakervendors.com

Wouldn't it be possible to do the Brakes and a Tune up etc. just enough to make it a safe driver to sort out things like Steering, Suspension, Trans, Rear End etc. so you know WHAT you have and WHERE it needs the most help while it can still be driven?

Unless you are doing ONE system at a time, it can get very overwhelming real fast.

We hate it when a decent Stude. ends up in thousands of Pieces For Sale as a "Basket Case" for $500.00, when someone has no idea what fastener goes where or where to start and has to give it up.

[TWChamp]

I sure agree with Rich, and have seen far too many cars for sale in a pile of parts. Not only will it be fun to drive while you do each repair, but by doing a job at a time you won't get burned out and quit or get in deeper than you can afford. I've also seen good survivor cars that should have been left as good survivors rather than get restored or disassembled with the intention to get restored and never reassembled.

Even if you have rusted floor pans, so the car has to come apart to replace them, I'd still go slow and drive the car for some time, and really get to know it and better understand what all it needs. Do the brakes first and any other mechanicals to make it safe to drive, then even if it needs to come apart, many of the repairs will have been done, so it's apart for a shorter time.

[Topper2011]

I sure agree with Rich, and have seen far too many cars for sale in a pile of parts. Not only will it be fun to drive while you do each repair, but by doing a job at a time you won't get burned out and quit or get in deeper than you can afford. I've also seen good survivor cars that should have been left as good survivors rather than get restored or disassembled with the intention to get restored and never reassembled.

Even if you have rusted floor pans, so the car has to come apart to replace them, I'd still go slow and drive the car for some time, and really get to know it and better understand what all it needs. Do the brakes first and any other mechanicals to make it safe to drive, then even if it needs to come apart, many of the repairs will have been done, so it's apart for a shorter time.

Thanks guys, that's really good advice. I've been able to get the engine running on starting fluid for just a bit. Of course all the brakes need going through like every car I've picked up. As you guys have suggested, I will start slowly. I know the transmission will need to come out as it won't go into any gear other than neutral and second. I was able to pick one up at the Studebaker West Swap Meet a few weeks back.




The tank has a leak in the lowest point and a welded on trailer hitch is keeping me from removing it for service.

[Topper2011]

Maybe some day?

[doublefeature56]

I've seen a lot of Larks with the two spot welds...that is correct On this 66, it has hexigon rivots which I've also seen...maybe canadian only?.

[studegary]

I've seen a lot of Larks with the two spot welds...that is correct On this 66, it has hexigon rivots which I've also seen...maybe canadian only?.[ATTACH=CONFIG]73234[/ATTACH]

I believe that 1965 and 1966 models used the special rivets and not the welds of earlier years. Please correct me if my memory is off on this (have yet to own a 1965 or 1966, but have worked on many).

[Topper2011]

Update: Just received my registration PNO paperwork. Title should be here in a week or two.
Rich, I also received my build sheet for the Hawk. It's great info. I did this for my 1960 Rover P5 3 Litre as well and it's great to see it's "birth certificate".
Built in April of '62, Desert Tan and was pre-sold, so was built as a "Rush". Built in one day and shipped out the next. Hopefully, not built in too much of a rush. This is truly an original car. I started cleaning off the moss and using "Soft Scub" to clean up the oxidized paint. I figure I can't hurt it much more and seems like the Soft Scub is a mild polishing compound. Can't fix the rust on the fenders though. I think I'll clean it up and get it running as you folks had suggested and replace what I would do anyway, like disc brakes. Even fixing the drum brakes is dirt cheap compared to Turner's Disc brake set up, I would being doing the upgrade anyway. Also, since the transmission is stuck, I'll be replacing the clutch parts when I install the spare trans, may as well.

[62champ]

Good luck. Color wise, it seems that every other 62 hawk was black, and seeing one that is not black, white, or red is a treat. Keep us posted and make sure you include lots of photos - some of us are visual learners...

[Warren Webb]

Topper, since your Hawk has an april 62 production date does it have the original engine too? If it does it may have one of the early "full flow" blocks with the oil filter mounted on the lower right side & a 7 digit casting number starting with 15 on the r/f top of the block.

[Jerry Forrester]

Topper, since your Hawk has an april 62 production date does it have the original engine too? If it does it may have one of the early "full flow" blocks with the oil filter mounted on the lower right side & a 7 digit casting number starting with 15 on the r/f top of the block.

You can see an aftermarket oil filter on the firewall with the supply line coming from the front of the left heat to said oil filter.
Evidently April is not late enough for it to have a full flow engine. What month did the full flow engines start? Also, did they change the valve covers the same time?

[Topper2011]

Topper, since your Hawk has an april 62 production date does it have the original engine too? If it does it may have one of the early "full flow" blocks with the oil filter mounted on the lower right side & a 7 digit casting number starting with 15 on the r/f top of the block.

I still have to check to see if it has the original engine. Not sure where to find the serial number on it. I am fairly certain it is as the build sheet stated a 4bbl carb and it does have one and appears the engine has never been touched. Of course, I'm hoping anyway. We were busy doing non-Studebaker things yesterday.





Apparently, there is only one Studebaker Woody.

https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2015/08/19/one-off-studebaker-woodie-wagon-once-left-to-rot-takes-concours-award/

[swvalcon]

It's on the front of the block on the drivers side just in front of the intake. Should say P followed by the number.

[Topper2011]

It's on the front of the block on the drivers side just in front of the intake. Should say P followed by the number.

Thanks. Finally had a chance to look for the engine number. It is the original engine. Matches the build sheet. I'm a happy guy.