regulator HOT after key turned off?

[Frank DuVal]

Yes it does. I know there is a difference between Autolite and Delco systems in some wiring diagrams (difference on some years has to do with whether the field terminal goes to ground or to hot to get full output, A or B style), maybe or maybe not for these years. I am not familiar with late 50s Autolite generators.

Look at Rock Auto for 1958 Studebaker Truck. Not the best authority, but another research tool, they usually list variations, some of which are plain wrong, but I digress. They list Autolite and Delco regulators under Electrical. Since you have a Delco generator (and a Google search turned up GM and Studebaker applications for this part number) I would choose a Delco style voltage regulator of the 30 amp variety, like Delco D618 or Standard VR20. These same parts are listed under 58 Chevrolet also, which uses Delco systems only.

Interesting that the system worked as you bought it. Wait, did you just install the generator and voltage regulator, therefore these two parts never played well together?

[tedtaylor]

FRank, thanks for the direction. I just ordered the Delco D618 unit from RockAuto. interesting though, that it is rated 25 amps as opposed to the 30 amps of the generator. Will that be an issue?
as for your question "playing together" i honestly don't remember at this point after fiddling around with it so many times now.
update later this week!

[Frank DuVal]

Well, it will try to limit the generator to 25 amp output maximum, so that will be less stress on the generator. I doubt you have a lot of accessories on the truck running at once. Headlamps, heater blower and wipers (if electric) at most.

[tedtaylor]

UPDATE: received the Delco D618 unit from RockAuto today and installed. Unfortunately, not a simple change out since the 3 anchoring holes are not the same dimensions as the original, so I had to drill two extra holes in the firewall. Also this unit has all 3 terminals on one side, as opposed to the original 2 / 1 side configuration. Always unnerving when moving old cloth covered wiring around as the outside cloth just disintegrates. Mounted regulator box vertically so that all 3 wires could easily reach from the wiring loom. Original box was mounted horizontally.
So after anchoring, connecting, polarizing, and starting up the truck......SUCCESS!!!! it's now charging as it should, even with lights on at speed. Only time it discharges is at idle with foot on brake or lights on.
I'm very pleased. Hopefully it will work for the life of the truck while in my possession.

[RadioRoy]

2/1 terminals are typically Autolite configuration, while three on one side is the typical Delco configuration.

But if it is working, and if it stays working, then it's good deal.

[Frank DuVal]

Yes. This would indicate the truck was made with Autolite parts in the lectrical system, but someone put on a Delco generator along the way . Oh, at the time of the 6 to 12 volt conversion. Then they matched the holes on the firewall to a brand of regulator instead of matching the brand generator!

Glad it is fixed!

[tedtaylor]

I spoke too soon! although everything "appears" to be working OK with charge/discharge operational, i developed a loud "whine" noise coming from generator and now it is HOT to touch! What happened???? it was supposedly rebuilt with new bearings.

[TWChamp]

Sounds like it could have a short, and the whine is the generator trying to put out too much.
Have you looked inside the generator to see that the wires go to the correct places, and aren't grounding out?
I've had to repair a couple generators for Model A's after some "generator shop" had the field and output wires going to the wrong brushes.
One was already cooked, but I was able to save the other one because the customer stopped using it in time.

[Frank DuVal]

1. what is the battery voltage a. engine off, b. engine running at idle, c. engine running about 2000 rpm.
2. does the ammeter on the dash have numbers, and if so, what is the typical number when the engine is running about 2000 rpm?
3. take the temperature of the generator with a non-contact type gun. Hot maybe normal operating temperature, or it might be HOT! Typical electric motor design max temperature rise is 40°C above ambient. If the underhood temperature is 160 °F, then the generator might be 230°F. Now, if you smell varnish melting/burning, that is TOO HOT.

[tedtaylor]

frank, I did not take any readings as it was quite clear to me that the whining noise was emanating from the generator and the smell of burning (like the new paint of the generator, and/or its insides?) I can report my dash gauge range is 0 to 30 and it never goes that high, maybe half way (15?), but hovers around 0 at idle. Revved engine, lights get brighter, amp gauge reads 10-12 charging. The whining noise varied intensity with revs. initially no noise, but as warmed/heated up, the whine became evident. The hotter to touch and smell, the whine increased and even fluctuated. Sounds weird, but that's how I would describe it. Prior to this newly discovered symptom, everything was fine for short drives, no noise, no smell, no abnormalities. Does the brand new regulator need calibrating/adjusting??? I'm discouraged to say the least.

[tim333]

Generators should not be hot to the touch.

[TWChamp]

With a very good fully charged battery the ammeter should read just barely over the 0 mark. A new voltage regulator shouldn't need to be reset. I just installed a new Delco regulator in my 1950 Land cruiser, and right now it's reading about 8 amps, but I've been working on the car and know the battery isn't fully charged.

[tedtaylor]

I pulled the generator and shipped it back to the rebuilder. He said he would make good and redo/go over it again. When i had it out, i could feel uneven grinding by hand turning it on the bench, so something's up.

[RadioRoy]

You might ask the generator rebuilder to identify the correct matching voltage regulator. One would think that he would know, if anybody did.

[tedtaylor]

got the generator back, he said the bushing was shot so he replaced it. I've reinstalled and been running/driving it. It charges/discharges properly and not making any noise, however after a drive, it is still hot to touch. I can touch it, but not for long. It's not scalding and burning my skin, but I can't keep my hand on it too long. Should I be concerned? is this normal?