custom chassis

[PackardV8]

Bare they were about $4500. When I further suggested Corvette suspension and steering the price went up to about $7800. I can find and install the Ford 8" rear with disks.

There are a few here who can construct a real, running, driving car from a pile of parts they gather themselves, but not everyone.

There are several kit car companies which sell a box with most of the car inside, very detailed directions and year/make/model/part number for the "donor" parts required. No surprise, many kit cars are never completed by the original purchaser. Some fantastic bargains when the wife says, "It's been too many years! Get that mess out of the garage! Now!"

Your build, your money, your decision. Best of luck.

jack vines

Two questions for further discussion here:

1. Why build with a new, modern chassis and front suspension, but an antique solid rear axle?

2. When was the last time you saw anyone drive a Stude hard enough through the corners that a well-sorted OEM chassis wouldn't have handled the pressure?

jv

[swvalcon]

In Mn I was told what ever part had the vin tag is what you have to go by. I built a 78 chevette using a 76 front firewall clip and everything else was a low mileage 78. Sold the car and this was after a state salvage inspection as a 78. About three years later I get a call from a Ford dealer that took the car in on trade telling me I had to come see them. In short to make life easy I ended up giving them what they allowed on trade and took the car back. After a long phone call with the state inspector he said what ever year was on the firewall vin tag was what I would get for a title which I did so it was now a 76. I told him I liked that idea as I had a old 73 chev pickup that was all rusted out and I had a nice 79 cab and title and that truck was going to be a brand new 79 when I was done with it. After calling me all kinds of names he told me it didn't work that way. My answer was oh yes it does we just went though this. Didn't do it but was pissed enough I had to mess with him a little. I did a maaco type paint job on the chevette and made money on it for the second time.

[kxet]

Problem of safety and smog rules for the year your registering car as in some states. Inquired about some "kits" on CL of 30s cars that were bought in modern times and never finished, no one answered as to how they planned to register these creations without modern safety and smog rules. Seems like the frame is what they look at for numbers in some states. So beware before spending your money.

[studegary]

Yes, No, Maybe. In most states, Studebakers are registered by body number tag and in a few others by engine serial number. Avanti did have the number on the frame rail.

jack vines

Except for Avanti, postwar Studebaker cars are identified/titled/registered by the Serial Number on a plate welded (except '65-'66) to the body's A-pillar or B-pillar. Some states used the engine number for identification, particularly in the early postwar period. AFAIK, the body number was never used for these purposes.

[Skip Lackie]

The 17-digit VIN was adopted in 1981, and federal regs determine what the VIN is. The VIN is often stamped on every major part to deter theft. Although there are federal regs that apply to earlier years, the interpretation is left up to the states, and that means that some local bureaucrat may be making the decision. And the example provided by swvalcon above demonstrates that there are situations that confound the earlier regs.

[48skyliner]

"1. Why build with a new, modern chassis and front suspension, but an antique solid rear axle?"

Even if you are not using a complete new chassis, the same logical question applies. I have said this too many times on this forum since I built my 48 Champion and started driving it. You can make a car handle pretty well with a solid rear axle, at least on smooth surfaces. You can make a car ride fairly well with a solid rear axle. If you want both, you really need independent rear suspension. Why else do all the modern cars go to the expense?

The next question is why pay $4500 - $15,000 for an aftermarket rear suspension, after the manufacturers have spent all that money to perfect something that you can buy very cheaply at the salvage yard? My fabricator friend and I have looked at just about all of them, and we favor the Nissan setup because it is all mounted on a cradle that attaches with four bolts, everything but the springs/shocks. I got the complete suspension with limited slip and disc brakes for about $300. Even at a higher priced salvage yard it should be available for well under $1,000. Mine was not very pretty when we got it, but after cleaning, painting and /or powder coating the various parts it looks pretty good. More installation details and photos here, see post number 88:

http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/showthread.php?75394-Nissan-Skyline-drive-train-and-suspension-adapted-to-48-Champion/page3&highlight=skyline

[t walgamuth]

"1. Why build with a new, modern chassis and front suspension, but an antique solid rear axle?"

Even if you are not using a complete new chassis, the same logical question applies. I have said this too many times on this forum since I built my 48 Champion and started driving it. You can make a car handle pretty well with a solid rear axle, at least on smooth surfaces. You can make a car ride fairly well with a solid rear axle. If you want both, you really need independent rear suspension. Why else do all the modern cars go to the expense?

The next question is why pay $4500 - $15,000 for an aftermarket rear suspension, after the manufacturers have spent all that money to perfect something that you can buy very cheaply at the salvage yard? My fabricator friend and I have looked at just about all of them, and we favor the Nissan setup because it is all mounted on a cradle that attaches with four bolts, everything but the springs/shocks. I got the complete suspension with limited slip and disc brakes for about $300. Even at a higher priced salvage yard it should be available for well under $1,000. Mine was not very pretty when we got it, but after cleaning, painting and /or powder coating the various parts it looks pretty good. More installation details and photos here, see post number 88:

http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/showthread.php?75394-Nissan-Skyline-drive-train-and-suspension-adapted-to-48-Champion/page3&highlight=skyline

[ATTACH=CONFIG]71779[/ATTACH]

That does look nice.

Three questions: Is the center section offset to the drivers side or is that an optical illusion? What gears come in it? How much does it weigh please?

[swvalcon]

48Skyliner I had a good friend that passed away and he did street rod chassis work. His favorite saying was KISS [keep it simple stupid]

[spokejr]

Yes, No, Maybe. In most states, Studebakers are registered by body number tag and in a few others by engine serial number. Avanti did have the number on the frame rail.

jack vines

And that number had best match the "hidden" number on the cross member above the rear axle, between the upper shock mounts. I know mine does.

[studegary]

And that number had best match the "hidden" number on the cross member above the rear axle, between the upper shock mounts. I know mine does.

I had to look at where you reside, then I understood your comment. I haven't seen a legible S/N on a Studebaker rear crossmember in decades.

[Dan Timberlake]

I have not done any cipherin' or figgering', but by inspection the loopy extra side rails and 90% perforated cross-members that Morrison prefers may not do very much for torsional stiffness.
It would sure be fun to test one vs A an OEM Studebaker chassis with a real X-member.

[PackardV8]

It would sure be fun to test one vs an OEM Studebaker chassis with a real X-member.

The Studebaker X-member itself weights almost as much as a complete frame without the X-member. Stude must have found it needed serious beef to do any stiffening.

It's also well to remember the Stude frame was intentionally made light and flexible. It was intended to be part of the suspension for comfort on the rough secondary roads where most '50s Studes would be spending most of their operating life. Tires of the day were so skinny, stiff and slippery, no matter how hard the car was driven into the corner, the tires would slide before much twisting force could be put into the frame.

jack vines

[DEEPNHOCK]

The Morrison chassis is WAY stiffer than anything ever offered by Studebaker.
And Morrison will build it any way you want.

I have not done any cipherin' or figgering', but by inspection the loopy extra side rails and 90% perforated cross-members that Morrison prefers may not do very much for torsional stiffness.
It would sure be fun to test one vs A an OEM Studebaker chassis with a real X-member.

[48skyliner]

"Three questions: Is the center section offset to the drivers side or is that an optical illusion? What gears come in it? How much does it weigh please?"

The driveshaft is in the center, but the diff housing and axle lengths are asymmetric. The gear ratio is 3.9, from a manual trans R32 Skyline, 89-92, but you have some choices using the LSD diff assembly from a 240SX, Skyline, Infiniti J30 or Q45, manual or auto, ranging I believe from 3.7 to about 4.2.

I am sorry to say I did not weigh the assembly - Sean was putting it together so fast I missed my chance. We probably added a small amount of weight, but not so much as the 9 inch that seems to be so popular. From a ride and handling standpoint, the real issue is the UNSPRUNG WEIGHT.