Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: Leaking Camaro windshield

  1. #1
    Silver Hawk Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Washington, DC, USA.
    Posts
    5,772

    Leaking Camaro windshield

    70 Camaro with the more modern glued-on windshield and back glass. The glue holding the windshield has dried out to the extent that I get a draft and a little water leak from the bottom of the glass when driving at speed. Local glass shop estimated a 50% chance of breakage if I or they attempted removal for re-gluing. Am looking for recommendations for what I can use to seal it in place without removing it.
    Skip Lackie

  2. #2
    Speedster Member avanti-hawk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Ontario
    Posts
    193
    It's likely rusted in that area. Was a very common problem. My one year old Trans Am back in 1979 had the same problem. It ended up rusting thru and soaking the floor which also rusted thru.
    If you dont want to get into removal and repair, RTV silicone is your most effective remedey

  3. #3
    Silver Hawk Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Bay City, Mi., USA.
    Posts
    6,968
    Skip, With the cost of a Camaro windshield under $200, I chance the removal and see what the problem really is.

    On the other hand, if it's a beater, I'd go the your FLAPS and get a tube of low viscosity urethane based windshield sealer. I've been exposed to way too many silicone gob-jobs to feel comfortable with using it here. I know there are excellent industrial silicone sealants that have been used historically to bed large windows but for my money I'll chose urethane products. Generally better flow and adhesion properties than silicones, just a lot messier so mask it well prior to use.

    3M has a wide variety of automotive sealant products so you may want to check their web pages.

    When Dan Booth gave me instructions on Avanti Windshield installation, he also sold me the urethane products to use. There was a particular low viscosity urethane that he likes as the final sealant but it's not cheap as it needs a special pump gun (gun + sealant = about $60) but if you are interested, I'll dig it out to get the product numbers. After I used it, Grim Death called and asked where I got the sticky stuff.

    JMO, Bob
    Last edited by sweetolbob; 03-04-2018 at 11:13 AM.
    , ,

  4. #4
    Golden Hawk Member BobPalma's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Brownsburg, IN, USA.(NW suburban Indianapolis)
    Posts
    22,416
    What Ed said in Post #2, Skip. Chances are excellent that it isn't the sealant that has "dried out." Rather, the windshield cavity has rusted out below/around the OEM sealant, permitting the leak.

    To be fixed correctly, the windshield must be removed and the metal around the cavity properly repaired before the windshield (or backlite; the situation is the same) will be air and water tight. BP
    We've got to quit saying, "How stupid can you be?" Too many people are taking it as a challenge.

    Ayn Rand:
    "You can avoid reality, but you cannot avoid the consequences of avoiding reality."

    G. K. Chesterton: This triangle of truisms, of father, mother, and child, cannot be destroyed; it can only destroy those civilizations which disregard it.

  5. #5
    Speedster Member avanti-hawk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Ontario
    Posts
    193
    Quote Originally Posted by BobPalma View Post
    What Ed said in Post #2, Skip. Chances are excellent that it isn't the sealant that has "dried out." Rather, the windshield cavity has rusted out below/around the OEM sealant, permitting the leak.

    To be fixed correctly, the windshield must be removed and the metal around the cavity properly repaired before the windshield (or backlite; the situation is the same) will be air and water tight. BP
    The urethane is probably a better product . RTV silicone is my go-to, but as mentioned by sweetolbob the 3M windshield sealant is better.
    I had to replace a windshield in a 1978 Corvette last year. It looked solid around the posts and across the top, but when we took all the trim off and removed the glass, it was a mess of rust.

  6. #6
    Silver Hawk Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Washington, DC, USA.
    Posts
    5,772
    Thanks for the responses. I shoulda anticipated the rust suggestion. The car is not a beater -- have owned since new, and is low mileage with no rust. I did start to get some rust on the panel between the the back light and trunk lid about 30 years ago and removed the mouldings on both windshield and back glass and rustproofed both areas. Still no rust evident in either place. So I'm pretty sure the problem is not rust -- just dried out adhesive. The guy in the glass shop confirmed those early glass adhesives were not designed to last 50 years, but also didn't want to commit to getting the glass out intact.

    Will go with the 3M urethane. Thanks again.

  7. #7
    Speedster Member avanti-hawk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Ontario
    Posts
    193
    About 5 years ago I bought a 1977 Firebird Formula from the dry S-W USA. Brought it back to Canada to use for the shell to rebuild another TransAm. I left it outside for about a week or 2 in the summer. When I went to move it the trunk and floor were full of water from a few days of rain. Leaking around the windows and more so from the cowl where the sealer had completely dried out or was never there from the factory.
    The build quality wasn't great on these models. As they were the last pony cars and sold very well, so the Norwalk plant cranked em out PDQ

  8. #8
    Silver Hawk Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Washington, DC, USA.
    Posts
    5,772
    Agree on build quality -- about the same as Studebaker's. And of course, they rust, too.

  9. #9
    Speedster Member avanti-hawk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Ontario
    Posts
    193
    Quote Originally Posted by Skip Lackie View Post
    Agree on build quality -- about the same as Studebaker's. And of course, they rust, too.
    Sad, but true!!

  10. #10
    Golden Hawk Member 8E45E's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    , , Canada.
    Posts
    15,345
    Quote Originally Posted by Skip Lackie View Post
    Agree on build quality -- about the same as Studebaker's. And of course, they rust, too.
    Not to mention, the second-generation F-body served GM for twelve model years; the same amount as the C/K body served Studebaker.

    Craig

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •